Dozer blade manual vs. Hydraulic lift

[Agage1 83]

I've been clearing out under brush on my back property with my 14 with manual lift dozer attachment. It has plenty of power and is getting the job done. However after I get the bulk of a section clear the blade starts riding on top of the last bit, I'd like to take it down to the bare dirt. So my question is whether a tractor with a hydraulic lift will give me more downward force to "dig in" with. I'm looking to restore the 14 this winter and am in the market for another tractor to fill it's shoes so I'm wondering as to whether a hydraulic model would be the way to go.

[fourwheels0 191]

if you put a solid link in (yours has a chain going to the plow frame correct?) you can push on the handle and have down pressure.

when i had my manual lift plow i would just raise up all the way up and drop it. that lets the blade dig in to the dirt a bit and worked for me.

once you get a hyrdo lift though it makes it so much easier. you have to be careful though as not to take too much of a bite with the hydro.

[Agage1 83]

Mine did have a chain and I did weld up a solid link. I even welded a rod on top of the blade and slid some exercise weights on it. All that helped but I know the tractor has the power to do a lot more. I never had a hydraulic lift tractor, and was thinking of buying one I just didn't know if it would make the dozer blade more effective or not

[Rooster 191]

Yes, it will.

There are other ways to do it as well, but hydraulics will help.

[Agage1 83]

What are some of the other ways besides weighting down the blade?

[MalMac 1,328]

Remember by adjusting the tilt of the blade that will help also. Top leaning forward will help to skim across and tilting the top backward will help dig in. Also a hydraulic will give you down force but my experience is that even though you have down force the tractor itself is just to light for much digging or scraping kind of work. If you keep trying and make a few passes you will eventually get down to where you want to be. Your just not going to be able to peel off in one or two passes. Even thought you might have the power you just don't have the weight like a big tractor or dozer.

[Kelly 1,028]

Did you make the link go all the way to the top of the rockshaft? the link will be about 9 or 10" long, you should beable to dig even with manual lift, but hyd are better, I can lift the front tires about 1" off the ground with my 520 and works great in the winter for moving snow.

[kpinnc 10,818]

The trip springs will only allow so much down force as well. Once the blade gets too much bite, it "rolls forward" just as it was designed to.

Not disagreeing with any of the previous posts- just making a point.

[Rooster 191]

What are some of the other ways besides weighting down the blade?

The only thing not mentioned above is I have seen one with a very cool cam lever a guy added that basically locks the blade down. It had more mechanical advantage than the stock rock shaft so it makes it easier to lift the mower or a blade with added weights. Same basic principal, lifting the front tires or adding weights.

Some of the other replies made me look again at your post and I would probably reverse my statement...

If the solid link is right, and you are able to lift the front of the tractor with the blade, then hydraulics are not going to help you, other than the added weight of the hydraulic system.

I had thought your blade was floating up, but if you are actually lifting the tractor then nothing short of adding more weight to it is going to put more pressure on the blade.

I would say that MalMac had the best cure for you, a dozer blade at the right angle will suck down rather than push up.

The trip springs will only allow so much down force as well. Once the blade gets too much bite, it "rolls forward" just as it was designed to.

Not disagreeing with any of the previous posts- just making a point.

And then there is that....and to add to that..

Should you get the bright Idea to disable the springs, Ohhh I dunno.....maybe like replacing them with a solid link.....then you will bend the plow frame, and the blade will roll up under you, and if your "Hitting it hard" when that happens, the front of the tractor just might rare up and the whole thing flip over, if your lucky it throws you out of the way.....so I have been told...not that I am stupid enough to do anything like that... :eusa-whistle:

[IthacaJeff 151]

The suggestions above will only take you so far if your ground is packed hard, or if there are a lot of

roots (which seems to be the case of clearing brush). Get yourself some sort of ripper for the back

to loosen up the roots, rocks, and soil, then use the blade.

Jeff

[Hydro 130]

I have a mid mount grader blade and a dozer blade and I am a heavy guy, 250. With ag's loaded and wheel weights I can give myself wiplash if I lower my solid link grader blade using down pressure. These things are not bull dozers and don't expect that from them. I would angle the blade, tilt it as suggested and be happy with a little bit each pass. Let it float and skim or scrape a little each time. The ripper is the best idea and take off the excess a bit at a time. Remember seat time and patience is the real enjoyment. :)

[Agage1 83]

Thanks for all the help guys. I think everyone may think I'm doing heavier work than I actually am. I' just using the dozer blade to knock down shallow rooted bushes and brush( enlist Daisies, blackberry bushes, etc.) the blade is clearing it out just fine, it's mostly chopping it all down. My problem is that once it's knock down I can't push into piles very well, the blade rides over. I know it's not too much for the tractor because I've been raking it by hand after I've knocked it down with the dozer blade. I just need a little more pressure on the blade to push the debris. I'm not trying to go over roots or anything like that. The stuff I'm clearing could be cleared with a machete and a rake it's just that I've got an acre or so to clear and I sure would like to make the tractor do the work instead of me

[can whlvr 991]

i have both and i think the hydro for what you are talking would work,if no hydro put weight on the front of the blade as suggested allready