Help finding SN tag for 310-8 / Brake pedel replacement.

[njdpo 10]

Hi all, picked up 310-8 for parts a few weeks back - Bought it for the deck and plow blade...

But ..

It turns out the engine / trans seems to works well and Im thinking of grabbing a few misc parts to make it whole again.

Im going to try and chase down a brake pedel for it, mine is broke (the pedal part is missing) ...

The hood is bent up a bit, the metal seat pan is bent up too and Im wondering if the machine was rolled at some point.

I want to find out what year this machine is - Im having some trouble finding the serial number for the tractor - where should I be looking for it ?

Can anyone tell me if the brake pedels from 308-10, 310-8, 312-8, 314-8 are interchangable ?

Dave

[rmaynard 16,354]

There is no 308-10, but the 308-8, 310-8, 312-8, and 314-8 all share the same part number for the pedal 110901. It fits others as well.

[tunahead72 2,553]

Dave,

For the VIN plate, try looking on the rear fender, either just in front of the seat or on the left side. If you're lucky, you'll be able to read both a model number and a serial number. And if not, you can get a clue from the engine (assuming it's original to the tractor) -- a Kohler K241S indicates either a 1985 or 1986 model, a Kohler Magnum M10S will be from 1987 or later.

I believe Bob's right about the brake pedal part number -- you are talking about the one on the right side, correct?

[njdpo 10]

Sorry about the typo ( I meant 310-8 not 308-10 )

thanks - if they are all the same part number that makes things a bit easier to find across the same machines with different dispacements.

Dave

[njdpo 10]

Oh hey Ed, you had helped me with a Commando 800 a while back... (nice to hear from you again ... )

As it is right now the machine is at a friends place - Ill ask him to look for the SN for me ..

The engine in the tractor is a K series - she was seized up and had more mice crap / housing materials in the flywheel shrouding than I have ever seen before.

Powerwashed the block, pulled the head, kroiled the cylinder, freed up the piston, sanded and reset the points, cleaned the carb, replaced starter and solenoid,..

Runs beautifully.

The aluminum backing plate under the shroud is in pretty bad shape (from the mouse drippings) - but its still whole ...

I believe Bob's right about the brake pedal part number -- you are talking about the one on the right side, correct?

The pedal which is Broken is on the LEFT side of the tractor (where the implement lift handle is located ) - I think the right side pedal actually says "Brake " on it ...

Thanks again.

[rmaynard 16,354]

The number that I gave was for machines up to 1988. The clutch pedal is 110902. 1989 and later were 114813 (brake) and 114814 (clutch). I think the only difference is that the 114813 & 4 had a zerk grease fitting in them.

[Duff 206]

Bob's right - the only change was the addition of the grease fitting. For anyone with an earlier machine without the grease fittings in the clutch/brake pedals, I HIGHLY recommend installing them. It's a very quick, easy and inexpensive job. Eventually (sadly!) parts even for the 300-400-500 series machines will become NLA or very hard to scrounge up, so I've begun planning ahead by installing grease fittings everywhere I can put them and lubing my linkages about twice as often as I used to. A little PM now will hopefully result in tractors that will outlive me and whoever inherits them when I'm gone.

Also, for parts look-up since you've got the K-series engine, if you use "21-10K802" as your model number it should put you in the ballpark for correct parts for your machine (1986 era).

Duff :thumbs:

[Kelly 1,033]

I should have the left side pedal send me a PM I'll look.

[dsholler 54]

Bob's right - the only change was the addition of the grease fitting. For anyone with an earlier machine without the grease fittings in the clutch/brake pedals, I HIGHLY recommend installing them. It's a very quick, easy and inexpensive job. Eventually (sadly!) parts even for the 300-400-500 series machines will become NLA or very hard to scrounge up, so I've begun planning ahead by installing grease fittings everywhere I can put them and lubing my linkages about twice as often as I used to. A little PM now will hopefully result in tractors that will outlive me and whoever inherits them when I'm gone.

Also, for parts look-up since you've got the K-series engine, if you use "21-10K802" as your model number it should put you in the ballpark for correct parts for your machine (1986 era).

Duff

[dsholler 54]

Are there instructions on here for installing zero fittings on the pedals? My clutch pedal squeaks so much I was thinking of taking it apart just to lube it., but that seems a lot of effort to do every month or so.

[Duff 206]

Are there instructions on here for installing zero fittings on the pedals? My clutch pedal squeaks so much I was thinking of taking it apart just to lube it., but that seems a lot of effort to do every month or so.

Pretty easy stuff - take the pedals off the tractor and drill a hole into that part of the pedal that slides onto the shaft with a 7/32" bit, then tap it for 1/4-28 threads. If your pedals have oil holes, you can drill those out and put the grease fitting at that location. If not, I put my fitting between the pedal arm and the tab to which the clutch (or brake) rod attaches so it is oriented upward and easy to grease when the tractor is sitting at rest. Most decent hardware stores or NAPA should have grease fittings. Just make sure you don't get fittings with extra-long threads or they may protrude into the bore and hang up on the shaft. Once the fittings are installed (be gentle tightening them), grease the shaft before you put the pedal back on. If you have a helper I would have him or her push the pedals up and down while you are greasing them for the first time to also help the grease work around inside the bore. After that, a shot of grease into each fitting every month or so while pumping the pedal and you should be good to go!

Duff :thumbs:

[dsholler 54]

easy for you, maybe. I have not tapped anything since metal shop in high school... I hope it is like riding a bicycle... :)

[njdpo 10]

Had the same squeaky issue on my Commando ...

On mine there is a small hole in the pedal shaft - I make sure to squirt a little oil in there a few times a year...

Looking at the size of the hole - I see its not big enough for a zerk fitting.

There is a video on youtube where the guy shows how to install the zerk fitting.

The only thing I would add to that process is - if you've gone that far to protect your components MAKE SURE you remove all metal chips from the drilling / tapping process - compressed air does this best ... ( it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to clean the outer edge with a file too, but that's just me ) .

Dave

Youtube video >>--> (

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( BTW - this is not my video )