hub is stuck!

[bean 85]

I got one hub off of my 310-8, . I then tried to get the other side off. it is stuck. I have a 3 jaw puller, but don't want to put too much pressure on it. I sprayed wd40 in the bolt hoes, keyway, etc. it has sit overnight and not any better. I have to go into town and get a propane tank for my torch. hopefully, that will work.

the hub looks pretty stout. is it a bad idea to use the 3 jaw puller?

it has actually moved an 1/8", so it isn't completely frozen.

heat it up and go for it? :tools-hammerdrill:

[bowtiebutler956 649]

You definately don't want to apply much pressure with a 3 jaw puller, I boke one that way. A torch will be ok so long as you are planning on replacing your axle seals, as the heat will damage the seal.

Matt :flags-texas:

[bean 85]

^{yeah, I broke one on my 8hp, but it was very flimsy compared to this hub. it is close to 1/2" thick. the 8hp hub was maybe 1/4"}

[pfrederi 17,169]

Did the hub really move 1/8" or did the axle move a bit in and out (that is normal) If the hub really moved at all i doubt you have an issue heat will resolve...more like a key or messed up keyway

[bean 85]

it has moved an 1/8", but is still tight. I am probably just hesitant about putting enough pressure on it. it is soaking with more penetrating oil. I will try it again in a few hours.

[rmaynard 14,924]

WD40 won't do a thing for you. Get some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil. Soak it. Let it sit. Keep trying. Never bang on the hub. If you hit it too hard it will break, and if you hit it from behind, you may just pop the axle out of the differential. Search RedSquare for pictures of homemade hub pullers made from an old hub and grade 8 bolts. They work best for me.

[CasualObserver 3,406]

Pretty common old topic. Just put "pulling rear hubs" in the search box. Here's a few of them from over the years. Many people have built their own versions of these pullers with whatever they have laying around.

[bean 85]

I finally got it off. I combined parts from 2 pullers to make it work. I had to turn the bolt with an impact wrench, while I held the hub from turning with a breaker bar. it came off HARD all the way. the puller was so hot, I could barely touch it.

after I removed it, I looked at the keyway, hub, and axle, and everything looked good. not sure what all the complication was about.

I am going to tackle the seal in a few days. the local store didn't have the napa part. there is a napa 10 miles from the house. I will have to call and see if they have it.

thanks everyone, for the advice :thanks:

[Rooster 191]

For future reference...

I have had great luck with sticking rusted together parts in an e-tank.

Last week I had a "large" friend and a 36" pipe wrench on the muffler of a K181,the pipe did not even try to budge!

Put it in My e-tank for a few hours and spun it off easily with a 12" pipe wrench and no damage to parts!!

[Zeek 2,284]

I bought this puller set from Harbor Freight for about $20 http://www.harborfre...-set-40965.html You will need the BIG one.

I then used an ox-acetaline set up an heated the hub cherry. Propane may not do it. The hub is think and take A LOT of heat.

Hammer, twist, hammer, twist, hammer, twist - tightest thing I ever removed Can't believe nothing snapped . .

Finally came off - a lot of corrosion underneath

My seals were already leaking and I knew I was redoing the tranny, so heat wasn't a concern for me.

Good luck, that's a job I never wish on anyone :confusion-waiting:

[can whlvr 991]

hubs can be a bugger too get off,as long as every thing is in good shape you r good to go

[Rooster 191]

If you do use heat try this method.

Heat the hub cherry red then quench it with water. Ignore anybody who tells you this could crack the hub. I understand their logic, and theoretically they are correct, it could, but it won't!! I did this for 20 years before I discovered electrolysis. Have removed flywheels pulleys and all types of hubs this way.

Basically, the hub and axle are different materials and expand at different rates, the hub growing more and faster. Add to that you are only directly heating the hub. Then the quench causes a rapid change in size. All if this will break the "corrosion adhesion" between the parts.

I learned this working for a valve company where I started in tear down. Taking apart any where from 3" to 40" valves that had been in refineries for as long as 20 years sometimes in very harsh environments. Bolts that a1-1/2" impact would not touch would spin right apart afterwards!

[squonk 38,989]

I used a hub puller that I got at an auction that was GM special tool to pull the front bearings on a Chevy Citation. Bolt pattern was the same and bolted the puller on with the wheel lugs.

[Zeek 2,284]

If you do use heat try this method.

Heat the hub cherry red then quench it with water. Ignore anybody who tells you this could crack the hub. I understand their logic, and theoretically they are correct, it could, but it won't!! I did this for 20 years before I discovered electrolysis. Have removed flywheels pulleys and all types of hubs this way.

Basically, the hub and axle are different materials and expand at different rates, the hub growing more and faster. Add to that you are only directly heating the hub. Then the quench causes a rapid change in size. All if this will break the "corrosion adhesion" between the parts.

I learned this working for a valve company where I started in tear down. Taking apart any where from 3" to 40" valves that had been in refineries for as long as 20 years sometimes in very harsh environments. Bolts that a1-1/2" impact would not touch would spin right apart afterwards!

Nice idea, I'll try the queching next time too :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[can whlvr 991]

ive had an axle break after extreme heating from the dealer years ago,the axle had hair cracks in it and snapped,dont know if it was defestive but i do know the dealer heated the hub up red hot and then broke my hub :banghead:

[kpinnc 10,846]

Another option is this. My buddy made it for me, and it pulls from the back of the hub rather than the thinner flange. No chance of breaking a hub- but it only works on those with room between the hub and case. For the hubs that have no exposed axle, there is no room to to mount it.

For the ones that it will fit on, they come off with ease. Just an idea....

[SousaKerry 500]

Before you put that hub back on put the rear end up on jack stands start the tractor and run the transmission at full speed. Grab a strip of emery paper wrap it 3/4 arround the shaft and polish it up real good. Use a file to clean up the keyway and use some neverseeze on the hub during re assembly.

[Rooster 191]

Before you put that hub back on put the rear end up on jack stands start the tractor and run the transmission at full speed. Grab a strip of emery paper wrap it 3/4 arround the shaft and polish it up real good. Use a file to clean up the keyway and use some neverseeze on the hub during re assembly.

Be careful when doing this. Do not wrap the emery cloth around your fingers and hold onto it lightly! The key way can snag it and pull your fingers into it! A lot of machinist out there missing digits from polishing shafts on lathes. It is an every day practice, but takes care to be safe.

[tommyg 152]

You probably have your hub back on already, but in case you don't, after losing my religion trying to remove a hub from my D-180, I made sure I coated the shaft with anti-seize compound before reinstalling in case I ever have to take it off again.

[Rob. R. 0]

Thamks i just used it while it was stuck to finish the yard. still baffeled by the not being a slot in the hub for the key way to slide thru.