Work Horse 800 electric PTO clutch

[pennsdalerepairshop 0]

Good morning everyone!

New member here; really like the site!

I've got a good friend who inherited a Work Horse 800 from his Dad's estate. The electric PTO clutch decided to stop working the other day.

I own a small engine shop but have not as yet had the opportunity to work on this particular clutch. So, I pose a few questions:

1. Can this clutch be taken apart and repaired? Short of pressing it apart, I don't see a way to do that-and, would it go back together?

2. Are there any sources for a used one, and if so, how to contact them?

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

Tom

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,553]

Before taking it apart I would be checking to make sure that the clutch switch was good and that 12volts is making it to the clutch. I dont know anything about dismantling them but I do know that used replacements are expensive.

Mike.............

[pennsdalerepairshop 0]

Sparky:

Twelve VDC is getting to the clutch; no problem there. I've also run an ohn meter across the leads of the clutch-get NO readings whatsoever. I have to believe that someone out there has had a similar problem and has made an attempt to dismantle the clutch.

Looking for responses--THANKS!!!

Tom

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Tom,

The halves of this one were wedged together to keep the assembly "live" all the time. In the process of hammering thick washers between the halves, the PO bent the mechanics of the assembly beyond repair.

So I gave it a shot. Both wires of the coil were broken from the crimped connections shown in the last two photos. I honestly did not try to dissassemble it with the intent of reassembly - only to gather a bit on knowledge if a "fix" were possible / practical.

My thoughts are your open circuit is caused by at least one of the wires of the coil being disconnected from the crimped connections with the outside world.

I wonder if an area around the electrical connection could be ground down to expose the internal wiring ?? A little barbaric, but nothing a soldering iron and JB Weld would not conceal .

there are a few more detailed pics over at SOI University

http://saveoldiron.47.forumer.com/autopsy-of-an-electric-pto-t2265203.html

[adsm08 1,434]

Bit of a thread necro, but how hard is it to take the assembly apart once off the tractor?

 

Mine has a stressed wire (I can see the sparks while wiggle testing it) right at the case, not enough room to make a proper repair, and I'll need to remove the wire from the inside and replace it.

[pfrederi 17,147]

I took one apart found there are internal differences between years.

 

 

Some pics on how to take it apart and reference to the applicable TSBs

 

Edited September 6, 2020 by pfrederi

[adsm08 1,434]

On 9/6/2020 at 11:30 AM, pfrederi said:

I took one apart found there are internal differences between years.

 

 

Some pics on how to take it apart and reference to the applicable TSBs

 

 

Thanks, not I just have to get the stupid thing off the crank. Mine appears to use some sort of bastard thread, since my 5/8x11 bolt slides right in, and my 3/4 course bolt tries to start, but won't go past the end taper.

[adsm08 1,434]

Figured out my bolt selection issue.

 

Apparently my clutch has a 3/4" bore, and my one tape measure has the fractions mis-marked. My "3/4 inch" bolt is actually 7/8".

[pfrederi 17,147]

There were 3 different threads over the years 5/8NC  7/8 nc and 1" NC