Horse Newbie ?

[big mike 13]

I brought this guy home and have a few issues to get fixed.

1)It isn't charging.What readings should I get to tell if the stator is working?

2)When I crank it it will only fire AFTER I let the key come back to the run position.Shouldn't it fire in the start position too?

3)The fender pan seems to be missing a hinge or some other part.....it has a piece of 2x8 to hold it in place.

4)What model is it besides 103708 that is on the tag?

Thanks in advance.

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[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

:whistle: , Big Mike !

You have in your possession the proverbial "Horse with no name". Seems that WH couldn't decide what to do with the naming of most of their models in 1973, so they merely put the hosepower and transmission type on the decal and that's it.

Your tractor is roughly the equivalent of a 1976 or 1977 B-80 8 speed with an identity crisis. It is simply known as an "8 - 8 speed"

The starting problem you are experiencing sounds like a bad ignition switch. This tractor should have the 4 position switch (OFF / ACC / RUN / START) and the "I" terminal should be "hot" in any of the last 3 positions. The original P/N was 101917, but it has superceeded to P/N 92-6785 and is available for around $32.00 at a Toro dealer. You can also change it over to the 3 position #103990 switch, but you might have to move a few wires around at the switch plug.

As for the charging problem - first make sure the rectifier/regulator mounting area is clean and that all mounting screws are tight. Make sure the two wires from the engine aren't broken, and that the third wire to the ignition switch is also in good condition. (There's a possibilty that the ignition switch problem could tie in with the charging problem because the power from the " B+ " terminal on the R/R to the battery travels through the ignition switch.)

To check the stator output, you will need to remove the 3 wire connector from the rectifier/regulator mounted in the hoodstand under the dash. Using a meter set on "A.C. voltage", connect the two leads to the two wires coming from the engine to the R/R. You should get a reading of 24 to 28VAC when the engine is operating at full throttle. If you don't have voltage there, the stator is bad. (if you have 24 to 28VAC, post again and we can move to the next step.)

Can you post a picture of the rear fender area so we can see what could be missing?

[big mike 13]

Thanks for the quick response Terry!

I will have to get a pic with the fender pan off.....it is interesting to say the least to get on and off.

I will also check the switch,which is a new replacement of what was in it.I may have to make the plunge and get another switch.

[wh500special 2,053]

Big Mike,

Another possibility for the questions posed in numbers 1. and 2. could be that the original switch was replaced with an incorrect switch designed for magneto equipped engines. i had a D200 that was this way and the ignition wire was connected to the "accessory" terminal...that terminal only receives power with the key in the "run" position. To start it you turned the key and got the engine spinning, then you released the key and it would (usually) fire up and run.

Incorrectly wiring the leads to such a switch (which will plug right in to the wiring harness) might also result in charging difficulties.

Steve

[Buzz 502]

Mike, if you're looking for parts or information, write your model number as

1-0370.

For a parts break down:

https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro

Here's a manual for your Kohler engine:

http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2379.pdf

and a link where you can order a tractor manual and download one for your transmission:

https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm

[big mike 13]

I got some shop time so I took a couple pics.

As you can see he used some 2x8 to keep the fender pan from sliding side to side.

I also ordered the correct switch....talk about stick it in,give'r a twist and break it off! I was lucky I left with my shirt on my back but at least I'll have the right switch.

I also took a reading(as best I could) and got about 27 volts AC so it appears the stator is statoring.

I am going to try dry ice to get the steering wheel off.I have the roll pin out and have soaked the shaft with PB Blaster but that dude is really on there unless I am missing something.

Thanks for the welcome and the help guys!

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[big mike 13]

I don't seem to be able to post more than one pic at a time.

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[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

This might help you see what's missing on the fender:

Stator sounds fine......

Next test is the output at the B+ terminal of the rectifier/regulator. At WOT, you should get a reading of approximately 12 to 15 VDC.

(If you use a remote photo hosting site like Photobucket, you can add more than one picture per post.)

[big mike 13]

Terry,you da Man!

Thanks again for the fast reply.

[big mike 13]

Well after a week and not even a new key the new switch showed up.I cyphered where the wires go,it cranks,fires,runs AND charges!

Now I need to find a fender pan hinge and a steering wheel.Then I have to figure out how the heck to get the steering wheel off.

Thanks much guys,this has been a fun project.

Now to find a Suburban or an RJ :banana:

[kpinnc 10,686]

Glad it's running for you Mike!

Now, if you get that yellow seat off, it'll run even better!

Just kidding of course!

Kevin

[BairleaFarm 339]

If you dont want to be a restored tractor a regular piece of flat stock with the ends bent will work for the hinge.

[big mike 13]

Yes,the yellow seat turns my stomach If anyone is into Moldy tractors too and wants to trade seats I am willing.

I had thought about making one but figured those might be pretty easy to find used but I do HAVE to fix the pan from moving......it's...ummm....."interesting" to get on and off.