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darren

Okay, I'm stumped.. by a silly deck bearing of all things.

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darren

Is there a technique (or I suspect it's more likely a tool) to remove the bearings from deck spindles? When I look at the 3/4" keywayed spindle assemblies I have, after i push the spindle out through the bottom, the carrier has a circlip at the top which I can remove but I have no access to the top or bottom bearings to knock them out. :eusa-think:

On some of my other spindles there is a floating sleeve in between them that I can push off-center in order to get a drift down to the bearing face and knock them out that way.

These keywayed spindles don't seem to use the same floating sleeve in the carrier; the bearings and the internal cylinder seem to be the same width, so there's nothing I can move to the bearing faces internally

I searched the forums but can't find an explanation. Do i need a blind bearing puller or something clever like that, or is there a knack?

Many thanks to any bearing-removal experts!

Darren

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WH854

This is one model ( Model # 05-42MS02) this has the keyed spindles Here is a picture.

post-489-0-29423500-1334167134_thumb.gif

You can go here and put the model# above or yours, you can see the break down!

https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro

I think when I took mine apart I just drove them out one end. I used a socket the same size of the outside of the roller bearings.Ihope this will help you. :thumbs:

Chas

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CRE1992

You can use a long screw driver and gently tap it out from the top downward in a circular pattern and it should fall out.

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squonk

I had the same problem. Took the spindle to a friend of mine who is a kart engine mechanic. Applied some heat to the spindle housing and the bearings fell out. To install I placed the new bearing in a freezer and set the spindles on a heater. did not need a press to put them back in.

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darren

Thanks guys. I might try the heat method for this one spindle. All the others have movable sleeves inside which I can offset and get to the bearings with the screwdriver/drift/socket & tapping method, but this one just doesn't seem to move, so I've got no chance of access to knock it out.

If the heat doesn't work, I'll try your method Chas. I wasn't sure if the bearings on this housing located against a seat. I didn't want to risk breaking the housing if they did and I tried to drive them all out from one end (if you see what I mean..)

Ah well, it's only one spindle housing and it'll be an interesting learning experience :)

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SousaKerry

THe ones I have rebuilt had a slot in the step that the bearing pressed up against, I was able to press the bearing by putting a small bar in the slot and push it out with a press

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gwgdog66

I wonder if the #24 Spacer has welded it's self to the bearings?? I had a center spindle do that to one of my old decks. A couple of good solid whacks with a big ball peen hammer on each end broke it loose enough to offset the spacer to drive the bearings out.

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squonk

On my spindle I could move that sleeve but not enough to get a shot on the bearing. I could not believe how easily those bearings fell out with a little heat. Just warmed up th spindle and then rapped it on a metal bench and bingo it was out! :)

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darren

Well, the gold star for diagnosis goes to Gary :)

The housing *did* have an internal sleeve which had seized. I decided to give it one last shot before using Mike's heat method. One hefty whack to a drift held at an angle against the sleeve caused it to move. With plenty of penetrating oil I managed to persuade the bearings out by tapping the internal face once I'd moved the sleeve to get access.

A big thanks for all the help and ideas :handgestures-thumbup:

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Don1977

Be sure to remove the large snap ring at the bottom of the housing before you knock the bottom bearing out.

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