Shuboxlover 474 #1 Posted April 7, 2012 So the thing smoked like a chimney once I got her going. I pulled the head off tonight and saw a fair amount of oil sitting on top of the piston (see picture). I noticed a few other things as well and I'm hoping that these issues I saw doesn't mean the motor is not rebuildable. 1st issue...The piston moves side to side a little inside the cylinder. 2nd issue...It looks as if the piston is slightly oval shaped, if you look at it (the side that's closest to the valves) It appears that I can see more of the rings than I can on the other side. (see picture) Are either of these issues going to cause me troubles with the rebuild? I plan on doing a complete oherhaul of this engine (if it's not too far gone) this winter. Right now I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row. What are your guys thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #2 Posted April 7, 2012 well i think that if it runs theres a good chance she is rebuildable,ya you will need a bore,(if its not been bored to 30 over,)and a new rod,piston rings,etc,but if she runs thats a good sign Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
multihobbyguy 35 #3 Posted April 7, 2012 Clean the top of the piston and see if there is anything stamped in the top. That might give you a idea if it has been rebuilt. Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #4 Posted April 7, 2012 Like the others said, its definately going to need to be rebiult if it hasn't already been bored .030. Looks like the piston has started to melt on the side closest to the exaust valve, which is usually where this happens at because there is more heat there. Good Luck, and let us know what you find after you have cleaned the top of the piston off. Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 474 #5 Posted April 7, 2012 If it's been bored .030" over already....am I S.O.L??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #6 Posted April 7, 2012 Pretty Much, .030 is as far as you can overbore your Kohler. You really need to clean the top of your piston off, there is usually something stamped on the top of it like STD., .010,.020,.030. If it is stamped 030 then you would need to have the cylinder checked for wear, if it still happens to be ok then you could just hone it and put another .030 piston back in it and be on your way, but not likely. Like I said tho, clean the carbon off the piston and let us know what you find. Matt :flags-texas: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 474 #7 Posted April 7, 2012 Cleaned it off nice and clean......absolutley NO markings on it? So what does this mean? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #8 Posted April 7, 2012 Maybe its the factory piston, in which case it would be standard. Do you have a caliper that you could check the bore size with? I,m going to look up the bore size for your K-341 and then get back with you. Matt :flags-texas: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #9 Posted April 7, 2012 The stock bore size for your K341 is 3.75. If anything I would say no markings is a good thing, but you need to check to be sure. Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 474 #10 Posted April 7, 2012 I don't have a bore gauge, I do have a standard caliper. There's probably a lip at the top of the cylinder isn't there? Would that throw the reading off, or is that the reading I want? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #11 Posted April 7, 2012 Yes just clean the carbon off the top of the cylinder, and measure that. The lip at the top is just the part of the cylinder that has not been worn out. This would at least tell you if its standard or not. Calipers are not as accurate as a dial bore gauge, but plenty accurate enough to tell the difference between STD 3.75, and .030 3.78. Matt :flags-texas: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 474 #12 Posted April 7, 2012 I can say with cetainty that it is the original bore size...3.750 :happy-jumpgreen: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #13 Posted April 8, 2012 Now thats good news!!!!! I'm sure that put a smile on your face. I dont know what your budget is like, but if it is tight like mine there is a guy on with some great prices on parts for your K341. The parts are aftermarket, but they seem really good, and that's what I have in my K301. My Horse has been working hard for a living, and the engine runs great! PM me if you need his info. Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #14 Posted April 8, 2012 My 14horse kohler was very similar to hat you have described and it actually only had to be bored +.010. I went ahead and had the crank turned and the valve seats reground while I had it apart. After paying to have that done, picking up new piston rod and rings and a full gasket set (all original kohler parts) I had about $400 into the rebuild. Really not that bad for basically a new engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #15 Posted April 8, 2012 Same with my K301, it smoked, and burned more oil than gasoline, but .010 later the cylinder was perfect! Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 474 #16 Posted April 8, 2012 Yes, I was VEEEEEEERY happy to find out that it hasn't been touched yet!!!!! How much more will I spend for genuine Kohler parts rather than aftermarket. If I can buy genuine Kohler stuff for $100-$150 more than aftermarket, I'll probably go that way. If I do go that way, where is the best place to buy genuine Kohler stuff? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #17 Posted April 8, 2012 I paid 50 to have the crank turned, 45 for the cylinder rebore and 25 for the valve seats being reground and another 280 I think for the piston, rods, rings, and gasket set(all original kohler parts). I think you might be able to save up to $100 dollars going with the made in china stuff but I figured the original lasted for over 30 years and I don't want to have to tear it back apart for another 30 years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #18 Posted April 8, 2012 where i live kohler parts are way more than after market,some people say that kohler parts are not made in usa anymore,and if your cylinder was at 30 over they can be sleeved,but you dont need to worry about that,keep us informed as to what she needs and what you do for parts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #19 Posted April 8, 2012 I'm pretty sure the kohler parts the place sold me had been on there shelf for 30 years. The packaging was faded and covered in dust. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorse656 20 #20 Posted April 9, 2012 buy a kit from this guy I have 3 engines with his kits and they are top notch after market parts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ENGINE-REBUILD-for-KOHLER-16HP-K341-M16-with-free-items-w-16hp-rod-NOT-12hp-rod-/380418940253?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5892bc5d5d Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #21 Posted April 9, 2012 i used kevin also,my machinist said they seemed to be good,but time will tell,a piston was more than the whole kit including valves,but when i do my 16 hp,i think i might get oem for it,but thats not gonna be for a while,i hope Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #22 Posted April 9, 2012 buy a kit from this guy I have 3 engines with his kits and they are top notch after market parts. http://www.ebay.com/...=item5892bc5d5d That is where I got the kit for my K301, and so far its awesome! The parts looked really top notch to me as well. Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
