My c-175 won't start

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Hey,

guys today I went out to start my c-175 with loader attachment and it just won't start. What should I look for the battery does have power but when I turn the key nothing happens. could it be a bad key switch.It's not the pto handle it's got a new silenoid fuse is good I don't know . any idea's

WHEEL HORSE BILL :USA:

[tgranthamfd 29]

I would check all safety switches first, then if that is not the issue, I would check the connections @ the key switch and the amp meter and stator wireing. My C 145-8 just died on me, like it was out of gas, and it ended up being the connection at the key switch. I wiggled them around real good, and it fire right up, and no issues since then.

[meadowfield 2,733]

could be IGN switch, safety interlock or solenoid ! assuming the fuse is OK and there is power to the start solenoid

I've had all three fail. The worst one being the PTO interlock which just fell into pieces and is a pain to get to and fix!

Even now I occasionally have to press the clutch to press the clutch switch just right to start... another job to fix....

mark

[rmaynard 16,289]

Are you getting any clicking at the solenoid? If not, check the battery to frame ground connection, and the frame to solenoid connection.

[Save Old Iron 1,571]

Does the engine crank if you jumper the starter solenoid like this ??

[JackC 617]

You can carefully jumper the positive terminal of the batter directly to the side terminal on the back of the starter to see if the starter is OK.

If the starter is OK, you will need to work your way back to check the solenoid, the ignition switch and the wiring.

I have had issues with all three at various times.

In one case, just cleaning the terminals on the wires fixed the no start problem.

After sitting around for 30 years or more the wire ends do oxidize.

The solenoid is the next item to suspect followed by the switch.

[JackC 617]

Also check the 3 interlocks for the seat, PTO, and neutral as already posted.

[JackC 617]

I also use a meter to troubleshoot that kind of a problem. I have had bad ignition switches and solenoids that function but do not pass the full 12V+ need to kick the starter over.

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Thanks guys I'll look everything over but I do think it"s the battery cause this thing starts with no problem and now nothing.When it's not raining out I'll take a look and clean all conections and try that once again thanks guys.

[Daddy Don 909]

If it has an amp guage make sure it is ok. Jump the back of it.

[KyBlue 655]

The Fairies must be uber busy.. Cause my B80 just did the same thing. My Saftey Switches are all gone (were gone when I got it) and have juice to the solenoid, but it isnt closing. So Im gonna replace it tomorrow. Pulled The starter though and cleaned all the brushes and lubed it just .. well to kill time really!

Can't beat having a good test light ... Only takes a few minutes to find where the juice stops.

[Save Old Iron 1,571]

remind me one of these days to explain why a multimeter and even a test light can be easily fooled in troubleshooting cases like these.

hint - high internal impedance of the battery or possible wire corrosion leaving only one strand intact in a multistrand wire.

[squonk 43,713]

A multimeter or a test light can fool you. When I worked at Napa we had an electrical clinic one night. We had an empty car battery case with 4 D cell flashlight batteries inside. It was connected to a cable with one good strand in it to a switch,solenoid and a Ford starter. All of the techs took a turn diagnosing why the starter wouldn't work. Got 12 volts, Got juice to the starter with the light? What gives. After someone finally tested the fake car battery Aha! there's the problem!! Put a real battery in still wouldn't work. Took them a long time to find the bad wire!! :) :confusion-scratchheadblue:

[Save Old Iron 1,571]

very nice Mike

I never thought of the using small batteries for that teaching trick - could probably mimic that one with a 9 volt transistor battery and 2 AAA cells. Multimeter would say 12 volts is ok and the little AAA's would still supply enough power to light the test lamp.

that's why I go with the jumper wire - actual operating conditions - and grab yourself a load tester for the batteries - I can't repeat that enough - saves TONS of troubleshooting time !

[KyBlue 655]

You can do the same thing by trying to actually start the tractor while the test light or the volt meter is hooked up ... Tools are only as smart as the person using them ...

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Ok guys I got her running today.I think it was just a bad conection on the silenoid that wasn't making contact.When I get some time I will bring her in the garage and take a look at all the conections cause I leave this tractor outside and I know it's not a good thing but we bought a new house 6 months ago and it doesn't have a building out back to store it and my garage has 7 wheel horse's in there right now for sure no room.Hopefully this year I will build a nice work shop for my toys 16 x 20 with power running to it. Thanks for all the info guys but I think that was it

WHEEL HORSE BILL .

[squonk 43,713]

I bought my C-160 from a friend of mine. He brought it over in his truck. We went to unload it and I was standing next to the flywheel side and he jumped on and went to start it. The solenoid just clicked. When it happened I saw an arc at the wire connection at the solenoid for the starter wire. It looked clean & tight. I barley touched it and the engine started.I just had to crimp the wire tighter. Didn't take much but you can see how much a little resistance can effect the circuit.

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

yes for sure thanks again guys

[squonk 43,713]

In case anyone is interested, a 12v test light has only a 9v bulb in it. They do that so when it lights on 12v it's bright enough so a tech can see it well enough under all conditions.