Road Trip to Bring Home a 417-A = SUCESSFUL

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

Pretty sure the Series II had an oil filter. That was one of the problems with the Series I they didn't have a filter. I bought a C-175 last year that was supposed to have a Series II but all it had was the sticker on the sheet metal, no filter.

What was the spec number of the motor you bought? 24300 and higher it is a series 2...not all of them had filters

Hey just out of the blue I checked the number on my engine. It is 24363. I guess that Series II sticker on the air filter enclosure is there for a reason!

Also, I will be e-mailing Matt some pics tomorrow. Thank you Matt for the kind offer to post them for me.

Van

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

OK, PICS SHOULD BE ON THE WAY !!!

I e-mailed Matt some pics to post. They are pics of the 417 and the 312-8.

I hope you all like them.

Van

[Kingwood990 16]

So I got the pictures this morning. I tried to up load them directly from my email and that did not work so I took pictures of the pictures. To see the original pictures please PM me. Van should be along some time to tell the details of each tractor.

The 417-A

The 312-8. I really like this tractor. If I get the chance I might cheat on the 244-H with this one.

[bowtiebutler956 649]

Those are two very good looking horses. I bet your proud, and you should be. :woohoo:

[JackC 616]

The KT17 Series II engine will take an oil filter but wheel horse did not put then on.

If you look on the back side of the block just behind the PTO you will see a small plate that covers the oil filter port.

You can buy an oil filter adapter and install an oil filter.

It may be a tight fit and hard to get to because it is so close to the PTO and drive belt.

There is also an adapter for that engine that will allow installation of a remote oil filter that can be mounted in a more accessible place.

I have the parts for my C-175 with a Series II but I have not actually installed it yet.

It also has a port for an oil pressure gauge if you want to snazz up your instrument panel.

Looks like a well hung machine with that big Kohler under the hood.

[kpinnc 11,053]

The KT17 Series II engine will take an oil filter but wheel horse did not put then on.

So this is a full-pressure lube system with no filter? That's a weird setup! I never knew WH did such a thing.

BTW, Those look great Van! Congrats again!

[JackC 616]

<<So this is a full-pressure lube system with no filter? That's a weird setup! I never knew WH did such a thing. >>

The full pressure lube was to overcome the problem the series I had with low pressure lube.

If your run the Series I on an incline you can burn up the engine and many did.

John Deer had big problems with the 817 as did Wheel Horse with the C-175s.

The full pressure lube allows the engine to run on an incline and still get adequate lube.

The oil filter is to keep the oil clean and if you change the oil frequently you will be OK.

There were some D series tractors that had full pressure lube and some did not have oil filters but could be added.

The oil filter port on the Series II is a tight spot to put a filter on a wheel horse.

I believe the Cub Cadets with the same engine had oil filters.

[JackC 616]

<<John Deer had big problems with the 817 as did Wheel Horse with the C-175s.>>

Oops, John Deer 817 should be 317.

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

The KT17 Series II engine will take an oil filter but wheel horse did not put then on.

If you look on the back side of the block just behind the PTO you will see a small plate that covers the oil filter port.

You can buy an oil filter adapter and install an oil filter.

It may be a tight fit and hard to get to because it is so close to the PTO and drive belt.

There is also an adapter for that engine that will allow installation of a remote oil filter that can be mounted in a more accessible place.

It also has a port for an oil pressure gauge if you want to snazz up your instrument panel.

Sounds to me like that may be a wise investment for this engine. Does anyone know where would be a good place to purchase an adapter to have an oil filter in the system?

Van

[jay in nc 209]

nice tractors van.

The KT17 Series II engine will take an oil filter but wheel horse did not put then on.

So this is a full-pressure lube system with no filter? That's a weird setup! I never knew WH did such a thing.

BTW, Those look great Van! Congrats again!

kevin wheelhorse did that alot i have a 516 ,onan powered that has no filter. i bought the adapter kit but i havent installed it yet. i have to go to the shop & get the boxes w part # for the guy in belgum because he has a 416 the same way! jay

[mrocket49 23]

The KT17 Series II engine will take an oil filter but wheel horse did not put then on.

If you look on the back side of the block just behind the PTO you will see a small plate that covers the oil filter port.

You can buy an oil filter adapter and install an oil filter.

It may be a tight fit and hard to get to because it is so close to the PTO and drive belt.

There is also an adapter for that engine that will allow installation of a remote oil filter that can be mounted in a more accessible place.

It also has a port for an oil pressure gauge if you want to snazz up your instrument panel.

Sounds to me like that may be a wise investment for this engine. Does anyone know where would be a good place to purchase an adapter to have an oil filter in the system?

Van

Here's a link I found but I haven't researched it yet to see if it will fit the KT 17 engine. http://www.kohler-en...-filter-2470202

[can whlvr 991]

i know we are talking about kohlers here but my hondas also are pressurized with no filter,and they really fill up the area under the hood,i like that look of a big motor :thumbs:

[smoreau 658]

That should be a 86 417A with the louvered hood, Does it have the light indicators on the dash? That would tell me for sure, I have both 85 and 86 , one thing that is always loose on these tractors is where the steering goes through the dash, There isn't a lot a steel there and it tends to get loose. there are several different fixes that I have seen hear on I prefer the bearing idea the best. As for your belt guard, there are several different tractors that used the same guard if you need one. Looks great and enjoy! The 417's are my favorite worker tractors!

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

That should be a 86 417A with the louvered hood, Does it have the light indicators on the dash? That would tell me for sure, I have both 85 and 86 , one thing that is always loose on these tractors is where the steering goes through the dash, There isn't a lot a steel there and it tends to get loose. there are several different fixes that I have seen hear on I prefer the bearing idea the best. As for your belt guard, there are several different tractors that used the same guard if you need one. Looks great and enjoy! The 417's are my favorite worker tractors!

Yes, it does have the louvered hood, also the lighted indicators, also the slightly loose steering shaft where it passes through the dash.

Tell me please, about the bearing fix for this. I would like to give it a try.

The belt cover is not missing, I just have not replaced it from where I put on the new belt at the PO's house when I purchased the tractor to load it on the trailer to bring it home.

The only big thing that needs some attention is the charging system. It has a volt meter, and when running the needle barely almost nudges 12volts. When I turn on the headlights, the needle drops down to 8volts. I have researched here on what to look for, such as loose magnets on the flywheel, bad regulator, etc, and I probably will try to tackle that this afternoon if I have time. Unfortunatly I have some other commitments, and I may not be able to work on the charging problem.

If you have any suggestions regarding the charging system please let me know.

Thank you,

Van

[can whlvr 991]

there are a number of ways to fix the steering,i think duke,wheelhorsefixer,did his with a bearing,i fixed my 308,but couldnt get the steering wheel off,i tried for a long time,didnt want to break it and end up buying another one,so i put thick steel around the shaft behind the battery,its cut in 2 pieces and nothched to fit the steering shaft then bolted to the battery tray area,worked out really good,much stronger,i used 3/8 plate,it will never wear,but the bearing is way nicer if you can get the wheel off,someone may know the links for you and post it

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

Thank you. I will do some research here regarding the fixes, but this will have to be about number 4 on the list of priorities. I really need to get the hydro filter and fluid changed, then get the charging system working at 100%, and relocate the crankcase oil drane to make oil changes easier. But overall I am well pleased with the 417.

BTW, what is the best way to remove the steering wheel???

And one more thing to add. Using a digital volt meter, the running volts w/o lights is hovering around 11.65 vdc , and with lights on about 11.23 vdc. Any ideas on this???

Van

[kpinnc 11,053]

BTW, what is the best way to remove the steering wheel???

They can be a bear Van. If you get the roll pin out, your chances greatly improve. If you swedge that pin trying to drive it out, you've got a problem.

I've had good luck with the old electrolysis tank. Just take the whole center console out, invert it, and hang it so just the steering wheel is in the water. Run it for a day or so, and it really loosens things up.

If you're checking volts across the battery posts when running, make sure you have a good chassis ground. The chassis ground is always a killer on my tractors. You should see upwards of 13.5 VDC at full throttle. Pulling the flywheel and cleaning the rust from the magnets and stator may also be helpful if everything else checks out.

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

If you get the roll pin out, your chances greatly improve.

I've had good luck with the old electrolysis tank.

If you're checking volts across the battery posts when running, make sure you have a good chassis ground. The chassis ground is always a killer on my tractors. You should see upwards of 13.5 VDC at full throttle. Pulling the flywheel and cleaning the rust from the magnets and stator may also be helpful if everything else checks out.

Checkity Check, will do. I will go ahead and get a good chassis to engine ground continuity established before going any further on the charging system. That could have something to do with why the factory analog volt meter drops to 8vdc, and a digital meter only drops to 11vdc. The analog meter draws current to move the pointer, and a digital meter does not draw any current.

Why the heck didn't I think of that?!?!?!?!?

I will let ya'll know how this pans out.

And yes, thank you for the hot tip on removing the steering wheel too.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Brother Van, glad ya got the ole girl home, and this just proves that great things come to those who wait Give her a bath, polish her shoes, and lets see some pics.

She wil serve you well. Glad things worked out 4 you.

~Duke

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

Kenny, I installed a ground strap between the frame ground and engine. No problem with a weak ground now, but I think I need to dig a little deeper and get in behind the flywheel. I did put a good charge on the battery, but I think maybe the charging system needs a little more attention.

Bro' Duke, Thank you for the "Thumbs Up" and all the other good WheelHorse help you have given me

Van

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

Got the hydro fluid and filter changed today. Changed engine oil already. Also installed a new air filter and gas cap. The window of the old cap was broken. Pulled the 48inch mowing deck from under the 312. I need to touch-up paint the deck, and install a set of new blades I have for it. Then the next thing is to put it under the 417 and turn it into a mower. The grass is already turning green around here. I should be mowing in two or three more weeks.

One thing I have noticed in driving the 417 around the yard is the 8inch wheels with taller tires in the front of the 417 deliver a smoother ride verses the 6inch wheels and lower profile tires of the 312. Just a little bit, but noticeable. I may have to see if I can source a set of wheells/tires to improve the ride of the 312. I have a set of Cub Cadet wheels and tires that may interchange.

Once all that is done it will be time to fit the tiller on my 312. I upgraded the wheels and tires on the rear of the 312 to those of a 520. Those wider wheels and tires really improved the looks of the 312. The stock wheels and tires were too skinny, and gave it more of a riding lawnmower look than that of a lawn/garden tractor.