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SPINJIM

Matching weathered paint?

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SPINJIM

I'm thinking of preserving some old WH's instead of restoring them to like-new condition. It's less work, and I like the old look. But sometimes I have to repaint just one rusty part. If I use the usual recommended paints, the newly repainted part sticks out like a sore thumb. Anyone have any luck matching the OLD PAINT LOOK (light rust) rather than the new red look. I don't like the 'oiled' look because it collects dust. Rustoleum seems to have a variety of reds, but it's going to be trial & error.

Jim

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AMC RULES

:text-worthless:

Keep us posted with your progress?

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Don1977

I don't think it can be done with spray cans. You could add a little white paint to the red using a spray gun and get close to the faded look. Don't know what you would use to take some of the gloss off.

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Ken B

What I have done is spray the paint on and tamp the freshly sprayed paint with a clean lint free towel to get rid of the freshly sprayed look. You'll have to experiment a little to get the look you are after.

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neil

I know this method applies for model tractors but i dont see why the same process could not be used for the effect that you could be looking for.

by using cetain tecniques you can recreate rust effects and age paint buy using certain types of washes

http://www.farmmodels.net/weatheringpages/weathering/weatheredhelp.PDF

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AMC RULES

From About.com...

Deluxe Materials Scenic Rust produces a coating of real rust on any paintable surface, wood, plastic, or metal. The rust base is a very fine powder, so the effect is good for scale railroads or scenery, and excellent for larger scale models. As this coating is painted on, you can use the rust on any surface, wooden, resin or plastic miniatures can be made to look as if they are made from rusting metal.The metal powder can be mixed with the carrier, or the carrier can be applied to areas of the model (bolt heads, seam lines) and the powder set into it. This technique is more precise than trying to brush the metal/carrier mix onto fine detailed areas. Once the metal powder and carrier are dry and firmly attached, you apply a thin liquid developer to oxidize the metal creating the rust effect. It can take up to eight hours for this to appear.

The difference between using Scenic Rust and a paint effect, is that this is real rust, with the pitted, uneven effect that is hard to mimic with paint. The only downside is that your piece is coated with real rust, which does come off if handled - unlike paint effects. Another difference is that real rust changes color over time as it oxidizes. Scenic rust, because you oxidise everything at one time, creates rust which is even in color. You may want to apply some scenic rust a few months after the first application, to try to mimic the varying colors of a rusted building. Of course, if you need to seal the rust effect, you will affect any further oxidation or color change.

Deluxe Scenic Materials (based in the UK)are available in North American. The Canadian distributor is Ontario Adhesives and the products are available through several online stores.

Deluxe materials have an illustrated hints page with several pdf pages explaining how to use this product to create rust effects on scale railroad stock.

http://miniatures.ab.../scenicrust.htm

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SPINJIM

Thanks for all the advice. It gives me some ideas. I don't want to exaggerate the amount of rust. I just notice that the original Wheel Horse paint darkens and dulls with age, partly due to oxidation of the paint, and partly due to very light rust. I just don't want the glossy bright red paint on an old tractor unless I'm restoring the whole thing.

I'll get some before-and-after pictures when the weather gets warmer, and I can make some room in my workshop. I've been lucky to pick up some tractors recently at low, winter time prices, but now I can barely get into my garage. I have three I want to 'preserve' with the old look, and three that need complete restoration. Can't wait for spring and the tractor shows.

Jim

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Electro12WH

You didn't say if you have a spray gun or not. If not, You can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight that will serve. I have an Electro 12 that I keep meaning to restore and I too am considering repainting it to look old. Red Oxide Primer would give a good match to the color, but is too flat and is not durable enough. I believe a blend of RO Primer and Valspar or Rustoleum IH Red would serve you well.

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VinsRJ

What I like to do is... (if the part is not super rusty but, lightly surfaced rusted). Just paint right over the rust. Then take a paper towel soaked with some Brake-Cleaner and rub out the freshly but completely dried paint. This dulls out the finish, works the paint so as not to look fresh and will pull the paint off the high spots of the rust.

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SPINJIM

I've been using rattle cans, but I have a compressor, so a spray gun is a good idea. I'll experiment with some mixes, and let you know the results. I'll also try the brake cleaner idea. Weather supposed to be good tomorrow, so I hope to get out to my shop.

Jim

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Electro12WH

Look on youtube for model car building. There are some folks on there that have techniques for making a car look rusty.

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