AMC RULES 36,961 #26 Posted February 18, 2012 Good tip, thanks for sharing Terry. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dresden Guy 24 #27 Posted February 20, 2012 Terry (aka TT)...... That's why I hang around with you RS guys..... like the PGA ads says: "These guys are good!" ..... Thanks Terry - will have it on by noon tomorrow. Steve (aka Dresden Guy) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #28 Posted February 28, 2012 I've used the' collapse the exhaust nipple with a chisel' method in the past a number of time with success. This last time, didn't go too well. To start, I was trying to disassemble a K482. The exhaust nipples were pretty rusty, and wouldn't come out after soaking them in PB Blaster and using large pipe wrench. I decided to cut them down and collapse them with a chisel. After a number of hits, it collapsed nicely, but it still wouldn't come out. I soaked it in more PB Blaster, and figured I might try to use the chisel and hammer to knock it in the right direction to loosen it. Not a good idea. The block broke around the exhaust port. See the pics. Anyone have any idea if there is a way to repair it or is the block a write-off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #29 Posted February 28, 2012 i dont think i would have used that method on that style exhaust port/pipe fitting. theres a big difference in using the collapse method with the single k series blocks and trying to do it with the fitting on the engine you show. you have an incredible amount of leverage there when the fitting is mounted to the block and you are trying to collapse a piece of iron pipe inside the fitting at a distance away from any sort of weight behind your impact point. hope that makes sense......... im really sorry that this happened, why couldnt you have worked on the mounting studs and got it off the block first, and then worked on getting the pipe out while fixed to a bench or held in a vise? it would have been better to mess around with removing studs in the block than what youre faced with now...... or at least got something wedged in behind there to take the impact while working on it. maybe someone might have some tips on welding it back on there good enough to use again. i dont know anything at all about those engines, even the material used, looks like cast iron, is that right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #30 Posted February 28, 2012 Hi Martin. Thanx for your feedback. I have only ever done this on single cylinder K series engines before. Didn't think twice about the engine type. Oh well. As far as working on the mounting studs, I tried, but there was no way they were going to turn. The thought about breaking the bolt off in the block and trying to get it out dissuaded me from really torqueing the bolts. Have broken off a few before, and I didn't really want to go there again. However, the front bolt is now broken off in the block, so that's where I am again. Not sure if it's salvageable. Maybe someone with some good welding experience would be able to off an opinion on that. I may try taking off the other side exhaust flange. Maybe, maybe not, the bolts will break off in the block. What do I really have to loose at this point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #31 Posted February 28, 2012 from my experience with removing bolts/studs etc heat is your best friend..... unless its already broken off. if you dont need to mess with the other side, i would leave it. if you need to remove the pipe, put some weight behind the exhaust fitting before working on it. its easy after its done to say we should have done it another way, but i guess its done now and you just have to try and get around the problem. would be a shame to lose the block without trying to fix it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,197 #32 Posted February 29, 2012 I snapped one of the exhaust elbow bolts on my D200. I drilled it for a helicoil and while tapping it the tip of the flange broke off (not as badly as yours). I can't tell from you photo but is there mating surface left on the broken side? On mine I fabbed a J bolt that would hook under the remains of my broken flange. Has held up for a couple of years now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #33 Posted February 29, 2012 I snapped one of the exhaust elbow bolts on my D200. I drilled it for a helicoil and while tapping it the tip of the flange broke off (not as badly as yours). I can't tell from you photo but is there mating surface left on the broken side? On mine I fabbed a J bolt that would hook under the remains of my broken flange. Has held up for a couple of years now. Hi Paul. Not sure what you are asking. The forward bolt is broken off just above the surface of block, but about half the surface of the mating area (between the block and the elbow) is intact. The rearward bold is intact within the block material which is still attached to the elbow. I'd be happy to take a better picture if that helps. I like your idea of a jbolt. I'd like to know more about how you have anchored it. Also, there might be enough of the bolt sticking up out of the block that I can get a grip on it with some vicegrips. I was thinking of soaking it for a day or two with PB blaster, then heating the area with a propane torch and try to turn the bolt. I don't really want to drill the bolt out by hand, and my drill press is in a different outbuilding. But if I have to drill, I have to drill. Either that, or replace the block with a used one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,197 #34 Posted February 29, 2012 Is there enough metal left to have a flat surface all the way around the exhaust port in the block (for the elbow and gasket to seal to) The flange tips are apparently not very strong. Mine survived my hand held drilling but as i was running the helicoil tap in (with lubricant) the block flange broke. In my case there was enough flange left that I took a 1/4: piece of rod bent more than 90 degree bend in the end and was able to hook it under the residual flange. Then threaded the upper end. Make a Little hook and see if there is enough flange left on yours to grab. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #35 Posted February 29, 2012 Ah, now I see what you mean Paul. Unfortunately, there is not enough of the flat surface left to enclose the exhaust hole. The threaded portion of the block that held the threads for the rearward bolt is broken from the block. What I was thinking of with the jbolt ideas is to take a long jbolt, place the hook in the bolt hole of the exhaust elbow and block, and thread the body of the jbolt down through the cooling fins. Then attaching a nut on the bottom of it. Picture it as sort of pulling the elbow down onto the block with the hook of the jbolt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #36 Posted March 1, 2012 It's looking like I will need to do the same as my muffler has rotted away and theres not a lot left... Just to confirm, the threads are 1" or the ID of the pipe is 1". There are plenty of 1" nipples on the bay (won't post links) are these the right place to start after I've chiselled mine out? thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #37 Posted March 1, 2012 It's looking like I will need to do the same as my muffler has rotted away and theres not a lot left... Just to confirm, the threads are 1" or the ID of the pipe is 1". There are plenty of 1" nipples on the bay (won't post links) are these the right place to start after I've chiselled mine out? thanks You should be able to get the nipples at your local hardware store or big box do-it-yourself store (aka home depot in the US). They are an extremely common part. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
