Sickle Bar Mower Rivets

[Teddy da Bear 11]

The P.O. had attempted to fasten the blades with some other kind of rivet.

Most all loosened up on the bar.

I was wondering if these rivets are still available and how were they installed?

It looks like they might have been installed the old fashioned way....... Heated up red and peened from the other side.

I believe the current model number for the 42" sickle bar is 7-1321 (formerly SMS-425) According to the toro site the rivet #1071

Can I just go to a farm supply store and get some? Are they generic in dimension?

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Hi Mike,

I am 80% sure these are several standard sizes. I think there is a little vice-like thin sor setting the rivets (similar to the things you use to set chain links on motorcycle chains.

If you cannot find this at a farm store or catalog let me know and I will look through the various farm catalogs to see if I can find it.

Happy July 4th every one ! B)

[Teddy da Bear 11]

I have got the rivets at TSC....

I believe I understand what you are talking about (squeezing the rivets),

But I do not have that tool available.

[HorseFixer 2,013]

Mike post some pictures of your project!

Duke

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

I have got the rivets at TSC....

I believe I understand what you are talking about (squeezing the rivets),

But I do not have that tool available.

OK, so I looked and could not find the tool on the TSC site. So I looked through some catalogs.

Valu-Bilt Tractor Parts has replacement teach, rivets, and tools.

www.valu-bilt.com

Rivets are all 1/4 inch x 5/8, 1/2, 15/16, or 1.25 length It looks like 5/8 is the most common length.

Their web site is not very good, so you might ask for a catalog - at least you will have pictures.

Or maybe call and explain what you are trying to do - 888 828-3276

Here is the tool:

Combination rivet vice (punch and riveter) - I presume this is for 1/4 inch rivets T55-0584 $72.39

However, even better might be "Section Bolts" which according to the catalog "replace oval head rivets". These are used with:

Section Bolt Tool "compact heavy duty tool for inserting section bolts into sickle bars without damage or distortion". T55-0532D 26.69

Best of luck

BTW, the blades on a sickle bar are apparently called "sections". They have a wide assortment of sections, though they are listed by "big tractor" manufacturer. Still, if you ever need section you might be able to send them and old one and they could see if they haver a match.

[Teddy da Bear 11]

At $72 for the tool.....no wonder the P.O. "peened" the rivets. I did the same.

I sure appreciate you finding sources though.

I was trying to remove the big pulley....but no dice. I went and got a 3 jaw puller.....ruined the pulley...

So tomarow I have to go look for a new pulley......grrrrrr!

Wanted to have it ready for next weeks Michigan Meet & Greet....but that is sure in question now.

[Curmudgeon 28]

There is a TOOL specifically for those rivets?????

Gee, back on the farm the tool of choice was a hammer and an old piece of railroad track.

I guess every once in a while a knife would loosen, but it's a simple matter of tightening them back up the next time one needed to be replaced. Which was never that far off, seems we have ROCKS in Michigan.

[DJ 310-8 0]

I'm not sure what size rivets are used in that particular cutter bar. If you are going for original look, better stick with rivets.. On the other hand..., they do make small bolts, for "bolt on sections". I use them on my IH haybine... What a godsend..!! You can repair a section, while still on the machine.

In our area, TSC has them. They come in small packets, or in like 50 piece packs. Bolts and nuts included. There are different lengths, so you'll have to check what you have. Hopefully the diameters are the same.

McMaster Carr has rivets, and "rivet setters". They range from about $21.00 to $25.00 for the tool, depending on size needed.

I have made my own rivet set, before going to the bolt on type. Simply take a grade 5 or 8, 1/2" or 5/8" X say 4" bolt. Something with shorter threads, and some blank shoulder. Cut the threads off. Then simply find near as center, and center punch. Then drill a dimple in the end with like a 5/16 bit. Just enough the OD of the bit is flush with the end of the bolt, or just a smidge in the face of the end of the bolt..

It makes a nice round head on the rivet. And from past years experience, has a lot less tendency to grab grass, and catch..

Good luck..!!

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Here is a picture of the new pulley in place. I rather like the spoke wheel look as opposed to the solid pulley.

I could not find the "odd ball" 7" diameter pulley. So I had to get a 6" pulley.

Now I will need a new belt for the size difference. And it will run a tad faster.....sigh....

I already am running the tractor at "idle" to get the proper cutter speed. Otherwise it would run very fast and shake the tractor.

Can anyone tell me what size allen wrench does that "behemouth" of a fill cap take??

Attached Image

[Curmudgeon 28]

Mike, are you sure that's not a fractional horsepower pulley?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,147]

I already am running the tractor at "idle" to get the proper cutter speed. Otherwise it would run very fast and shake the tractor.

Can anyone tell me what size allen wrench does that "behemouth" of a fill cap take??

Maybe it shakes because

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Mike, are you sure that's not a fractional horsepower pulley?

Dale? I have no idea what a fractional horse power pulley is...lol

Can't I use it because it looks cool?

Maybe it shakes because

[TT-(Moderator) 1,147]

No it does not shake because of that. The "tach-o-matic" bar is currently off in the picture. It is a real neat set-up compared to the "bolt on" method.

I like the idea of the bolt to take out the fill plug. But.....I think even if I double up a nut to "lock" together and use the nut to get a grip. It will still back off. I believe the direction of "loose" for the plug is the same direction of "loose" for the nuts locked together.

I've never see one with a modified bracket like yours, Mike. I just figured that not being mounted a solidly as it should would cause more shaking - which it probably does anyway.

I keep mine on a "dedicated" tractor so I don't have to deal with the hassle of mounting it when I want to cut weeds.

The double-nutted bolt works fine - make sure the nuts are tightened against each other real well and put your wrench on the inside nut. I have been loosening damper tubes in motocycle forks with a "tool" like that for years.

If you have a welder or access to one, just weld a nut to the other end of the bolt and use a socket. :whistle:

[Curmudgeon 28]

Fractional horsepower pulleys are those cheap, light weight, cast jobs you find in many hardwares. Fine for half a horse, but running your sickle bar you're likely to have shrapnel flying all over the place sooner or later.

What makes me think it's fractional is, the overall porous look, the fact the hub has a higher ridge for the set screw. The metal is so weak, they have to add "beef" just to tighten the set screw without stripping the threads.

Lastly, it's those cool looking spokes. Very little metal for strength there. Look how thin they are in thickness.

It may run it just fine, but I couldn't just ignore the way it looked, and then have a post next week with a picture of one of those spokes sticking out of your arm.

Go to a hardware, check out the fractional pulleys. Trust me, you'll be able to tell the difference by sight once you've seen one.

Better safe than full of shrapnel.

[Teddy da Bear 11]

What makes me think it's fractional is, the overall porous look, the fact the hub has a higher ridge for the set screw. The metal is so weak, they have to add "beef" just to tighten the set screw without stripping the threads.

That is not why they did this particular one. All the 6" pulleys of this type are the same except for the I.D. They just made allowances in order to cast the same pulley and offer a range of different I.D's.

It may run it just fine, but I couldn't just ignore the way it looked, and then have a post next week with a picture of one of those spokes sticking out of your arm.

I know you are making a point. But I have to laugh at the thought of me putting a picture of my arm with metal sticking out of it, on the forum...lol How morbid...lol

ummm....just in case.....do we have a category for wheel horse injuries? B)

[Curmudgeon 28]

I know you are making a point. But I have to laugh at the thought of me putting a picture of my arm with metal sticking out of it, on the forum...lol How morbid...lol

ummm....just in case.....do we have a category for wheel horse injuries?

Actually, the pictures I have are of my leg after it was sown up. Then as the stitches tore out from the infection. Since this was in an age of pre-digital cameras, I'm sure the people who processed the photo thought we were morbid. Unless maybe the guys name was Freddie and it was on Elm Street..........

[Teddy da Bear 11]

I am having another dilema with the bar itself.

It seems there are these "wear plates" (item #81 part #2231)

I noticed on my sbm that the first one was put on backwards and upside down from all of the others. :wtf:

Then I went to the Toro parts viewer. It is actually shown upside down and backwards! Can someone explain this to me? It does not seem like it would function in that orientation. Why only the first one?

Here is a clip of the sbm assembly drawing

Attached Image

[TT-(Moderator) 1,147]

I never looked that closely at mine, but I'd say because the arm on the gearbox actually travels in an arc when moving side-to-side, the wear plate was flipped to allow more clearance between the knife bar, the cutter bar, and the guards. (so it wouldn't bind.)

[rustbucket 4]

wish i had a sicckle bar mower right about now. my comunity has a pong with a feild around it and well lets just say they waiting till 4 weeks ago to ask for volenteers to mow. me dumb butt was the volenteer along with my dad. we got half of it under control but it almost killed one of my good old jacobsen off breeds. stalled the mighty kohler twice in there useing conventional mower deck.

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Just don't get too close to that pond and loose a tractor! Seems there has been "pond play" on here in another post....lol

[rustbucket 4]

i leave at the minumum a 2 foot skirt from the pod edge i dont go no where near the edge at all.

[Teddy da Bear 11]

I don't know how to explain the weird experience I had buying the new belt, but I will try.

I wanted to get a belt 2" smaller than the previous one.

Well all the info was written on the old belt. It clearly said 43" So I took it to the guy I buy most belts from. I told him I wanted one 2" shorter than this one.

I told him it said 43". So he brought me a belt and I compared it. It was exactly the same size! I asked him "what gives?" He showed me where the belt said 41L. I showed him that the belts were the same size. He showed me that while my belt said 43" it also showed a part number 41L! That is why it was the same size.

So I have learned.....do not go by what inch size a belt says... go by the part number.

Since my belt actually measured 41". He gave me a 39L which was the correct size at 39"..

[Curmudgeon 28]

Um, yeah. You'd think the belt numbers would be the same as the size, but nope, they are a couple numbers different. Always makes it exciting!

[plowmaster 0]

so how did this project pan out? i was going to reccomend taking that little sickebar to your local farmer friend and showing it off, im sure he would get a kick outa that little thing and help you get it running in an hour or less...we have been cutting hay with them things for generations, we ALL have everything you need to run it that afternoon.