Electrical 101 please... Tech H60 Electric Start Issues

[grnlark 489]

I’ll admit right out of the gate that I’m no expert when it comes to solenoids and switches but I’m sure some of you guys are. So I’m hoping to gain a little education here. No offense taken if you start from a 101 basics level for me. This thread is actually a continuation of a thread I started yesterday in the engine section. This portion of the conversation is electrical in nature, so naturally I thought it would fit best here. I also thought this might be educational for others as well. To see where/how this thread originated, part I is located here:

Yes, this question/issue comes to us from a non-Wheel Horse tractor, but I think its an interesting issue and hope others may benefit from the responses herein. I know many WH’s were originally equipped with Tecumseh motors, so hopefully this is broad enough to not get booted out of this section.

Ok, enough BS. So, piggy-backing off the earlier post noted above, I decided that I want to go thru the entire electrical system and replace all of the wires and clean everything. My concern is that this electrical system has probably been tampered with at some point in the past, so I was hoping someone can explain to me (1) exactly what everything here does, and (2) if things appear to be connected correctly. Keep in mind that the issue at hand is a slow laborious rotation of the starter when I turn the key and also when the engine does run, the key won’t shut the engine off. I have to choke it to make it turn off. Switch issue? Or wiring issue? Let’s hope someone knows.

A quick synopsis of the posted pictures: There are only three wires (black - 1, white - 2 and red - 3 respectively). I have tried to illustrate their path(s), which essentiality go from the switch, to the solenoid, and then to some crazy looking fuse panel sorta thing. The only wire that is not entirely self-explanatory is the white wire (number 2). It goes directly from the switch to a screw on the side of the engine. I assume this is an attempt at a kill-switch wire, but as it is now, it’s just attached to one of the engine cover screws. I’m not thinking that’s correct.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I am very interested to understand how this all works and if any of these photos might shed some light on my slow cranking issue.

I thank you in advance,

Matt

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

I see what looks to be lettering at the switch terminals. Can you post what they are?

Everything looks fine to me as far as the actual wiring connections. The "no-kill" issue may be due to an incorrect ignition switch.

[grnlark 489]

Problem solved: It was bad wires!

I decided I was just going to rewire everything. The wires that were there were pretty beat and it only made sense that they could have been corroded even within the sheath. The only challenge I had was removing the old screws out of the fuse board. Of course three of the four screws broke off in the board. So, I had to drill them out and make new poles, which actually are better IMO than they were originally. I didn't change the battery cables yet but definitely will.

It still doesn't shut off though.... Not sure if thats a switch issue or not. Needless to say, I have a new switch on it's way. But at least when I turn the key now it cranks fast and starts. :banana-rock:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

It still doesn't shut off though.... Not sure if thats a switch issue or not. Needless to say, I have a new switch on it's way.

That's why I asked about the labeling on the current switch. Killing the engine is as simple as grounding the middle post (labeled "MAG") at the bottom of the diode board. That's what the red wire (#3) connected to the ignition switch was for.

[grnlark 489]

It still doesn't shut off though.... Not sure if thats a switch issue or not. Needless to say, I have a new switch on it's way.

That's why I asked about the labeling on the current switch. Killing the engine is as simple as grounding the middle post (labeled "MAG") at the bottom of the diode board. That's what the red wire (#3) connected to the ignition switch was for.

So now I'm wondering if it's been wired incorrectly all along? This is how the switch is CURRENTLY wired:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

This is how the switch needs wired:

BAT: to the same large post on the starter solenoid where the cable from the battery connects.

GRD: chassis ground (connected to a bolt/screw on the engine is fine)

MAG: to the middle terminal on the diode board marked "MAG"

SOL: to the small post on the starter solenoid

LITE: is an accessory terminal used to power a lighting circuit

[grnlark 489]

This is how the switch needs wired:

BAT: to the same large post on the starter solenoid where the cable from the battery connects.

GRD: chassis ground (connected to a bolt/screw on the engine is fine)

MAG: to the middle terminal on the diode board marked "MAG"

SOL: to the small post on the starter solenoid

LITE: is an accessory terminal used to power a lighting circuit

Here's a pic of the solenoid as it is now. Does this change your thoughts above at all?

[grnlark 489]

currently:

- "from switch" is on the 'Bat' pole

- "to panel" goes to the top pole on the fuse panel and is always live

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

Sending you a PM :handgestures-thumbup: