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Wheel-N-It

Need advice on a 520H re-power

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Wheel-N-It

Well yeah, the guy i bought it from said the block was cracked but was running when he parked it ( down on power ). The engine was full of oil, and I performed a leakdown test on both cylinders. Both cylinders were in the the acceptable range. The front cylinder regestered 35% leakdown, and the rear 38% leakdown. I tell you though, judgening by the obvious overall lack of maintenance, and the quality ( or lack there of ) of workmanship, I would have a hard time saying " yes the block is definetly cracked " because I would be taking the word of the mechanic, and I cannot say his word is gospel. So, knowing the truth of the matter is going to require either starting the engine to see how it runs ( if it does ), or just going ahead and tearing it down to see what is there. Hopefully there is a ray of hope here as it had an Onan factory oil filter on the motor ( not something that just screwed on like a Purilator ), and the oil filter was not heavy like it had been on there forever and wad plugged tight with contaminats.

And really, I hope it is an easy problem to solve, easy to start, and the thing runs great. That is my prayer for the buyer. I am happy with what I have left of the 520.

Van

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546cowboy

Well that must be one really good friend to let you have it for scrap price. As far as the engine problem, I have bought a couple with blown engines. If you watch Ebay and Craigslist and can wait long enough you can find one. I have bought two that had loose valve seats and with the engine already out of the tractor it's not that hard to have it fixed at a good machine shop. That's what I did but you may have to wait 6 months or more to find one. I do have three good 20 hp. Onan engine blocks if anybody needs one. One of them still has the crank, rods,pistons, cam, heads still in it. It was using quite a bit of oil and will need a rebuild.

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Cable

The pin is a 3/32 steel roll pin. Use penetrating oil and let it sit for a couple of days. I like to remove the foot rest and set up a 2x4 on the concrete floor with a grove cut to accommodate the lever. The 2x4 will hold the lever firmly so the pin can be hammered out. Use a 3/32 roll pin punch. As rusty as the tractor is you must expect the same with the roll pin. Be patient.

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