Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
cjtrott

First Restorations!

Recommended Posts

cjtrott

Hi guys, I am new to the forum and was looking for some insight. I have recently stumbled upon two finds at the local dealership. I also work there, so it is a little bit of an unfair advantage. I bought a rough B-60 first, and then a complete 1056 in fair condition. I am trying to decide how far to go on these restorations. The 1056 I would like to keep as stock as I can, but the B-60 is so rough I think I will make it a more custom piece. If brought back to excellent condition, I thought of asking $800-900 for the B-60 and $1200-1500 on the 1056. We sell machines every day at work, but nothing typically this old. I also may have a difficult time finding the right buyer as I am located in Erie, PA. What do you guys think?

Thanks,

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

:woohoo: Many moons ago, I grew up in Meadville. :WRS: CJ.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
cjtrott

My other half is from around there haha! I appreciate any and all insight you guys have!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jake Kuhn

My advice on the b60 would be to keep it original as possible because you don't see them very often By the way :WRS:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
cjtrott

That is a good point! I was wondering what others thought! Both of them are just about ready to get prepped for paint, but that is a journey in itself. I am really hoping to get them done before spring... Anyone have an idea on value?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Rollerman

B-60's are an odd ball, but I wouldn't say rare.

I will say 1056 probably sold in bigger numbers than the B 60, but you don't see that many of them anymore.

Personally an early long frame with stirups & a generator/startor big block Kohler is just cool & should be preserved.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Irv

I don't think anyone's going to give you a value without seeing the finished product including how well it runs!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
can whlvr

:WRS: dont forget that its hard to make money when you concider how much needs to go into a tractor,most of us do it for the love of the hobby,i have a fully restored c101,motor,tranny every apart and built as new,i could never recoupe my cash into it unalone account for my time,but its a great feeling to bring these fine machines back to life,i think the money is in parts,and even then your not gonna get rich,just make some extra cash and fun along the way

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
cjtrott

Thanks guys! Just to clarify, I am not looking to make a killing at this, but I would like to recover my costs as far as parts (I never expect to get my time back) and move on to the next. I really enjoy the hobby and have had others in the past. This is really exciting for me, and I enjoy making history live on! Thank you for the input!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ken B

Lets just assume you do a masterful job on restoring both of these tractors. In my opinion your asking prices are a bit on the high end. With today's economy that is a bunch of money for a trinket. Restoring tractors and then selling them with the hope of getting your money back is a tough game. Forget about profits. It also comes down to subject matter. JMHO. Lots of luck though!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JC 1965

Hello and :WRS:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
buckeyebill440

:WRS: I'm not too far west of you...just across the line in Ohio. What shop do you work for?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
cjtrott

Miller Brothers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • gwest_ca
      By gwest_ca-(File Mod)
      The 1045 used engine drive pulley 5412 on K241S-46219a engine. (multi-groove)
      The 1055 used engine drive pulley 5412 on K241S-46219a engine. (multi-groove)
      The 1075 used engine drive pulley 6122 on K241S-46219a engine. (multi-groove)
      The 1046 used engine drive pulley 6936 on K241S-46219a engine. (single groove)
      The 1056 used engine drive pulley 6483 on K241AS-46333d engine. (single groove)
      The 1046 came with the PT-6 pto as standard equipment.
      It has been said the 1046 was built to use up an excess of parts inventory and they appear to have been built at the end of the 1966 production run as no 1966 tractor serial numbers have shown up after them.
      The PT-5 pto clutch plate is keyed to the crankshaft and assume it was released in 1965 for 1-1/8" shaft.
      The PT-6 pto clutch is bolted to the engine pulley and assume it was released in 1966 for 1-1/8" shaft.
      The PT-7 pto clutch is bolted to the engine pulley and assume it was released in 1967. In the manual is states this clutch requires 2-1/2" engine pulley 7363 for all 8hp and 1046 tractors with gear transmissions. The PT-7 appears to be for engines with 1" crankshaft.
      The drive belt and belt guard are the same for the 1046 and 1056.
      What is the difference in the 6483 and 6936 drive pulleys? Is it the bore?
      Does the 10hp K241S-46219a engine have a 1" crank on the 1045, 1055, 1075 and 1046?
      Garry
    • Texas Todd
      By Texas Todd
      Well, everyone inspired me to give a resto a shot.  Bought this 1056 that the seller said had a factory re-powered 12hp K301S.  Guess not having the generator isn't a bad thing, but what do I know?
      Wheel Horse tires must be original. Not bad to get 50 years out of a set of tires.
       
      Drained the trans-axle and it looked like and was the consistency of pancake batter. Thick pancake batter.  The wiring was done by someone, who, well, someone whose daddy didn't teach him right.  
      Lots of bailing wire to be replaced with proper hardware......42" deck has some cancer but seems to operate okay.
       
      I'm sure I will have a lot of questions in the coming months. Sure hope for a before after picture down the road like I see on here all the time.
       
       




    • deere173
      By deere173
      I have another belt question, this time on a 1056 tractor with mower deck. I received the tractor with the deck belt tensioning idler bracket resting against the underside of the right-hand steering tie rod. There is no spring, just the belt itself applying tension forcing the bracket against the bottom of the tie rod.  The tie rod is badly worn from the machine being used like this for years.  In the photo, it's the bracket angled downward resting on the floor. Anyone know how this is supposed to be positioned? Are there parts missing ?

    • WHEEL HORSE BILL
      By WHEEL HORSE BILL
      Hey guys I just want to know,should I trade a 42" mowerdeck and $75 dollars for a model 1056 tractor with HI/LO range.I always loved these tractor with the different front grilles on them.I want to hear the motor run first before I even trade.The guy also has a 857 model with mowerdeck but no HI/LO range which one  is better for a trade please help me out thanks
×
×
  • Create New...