what blades?

[CTPATRIOT 12]

I have this super clean 42" rear discharge deck for my 310-8.The blades are dull and have some wear,what are my options?It does not have the baffles underneath.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Have any pictures of the blades?

I run mine until there's nothing left to sharpen.

[Hydro 130]

Not sure what you're are asking? I had one of those decks, well sort of. It started out as a mulching deck which rusted out. I cut the baffles out and it became a rear discharge deck. They are the same shell. They have their advantages and disadvantages. They leave cut grass right where it was cut, in other words it's not blown out the side into a windrow or into flower beds and gardens. They take less power to run because the clippings don't go anywhere. They lay where they are cut. The cut does not look as clean but really it is just as clean. Really it's a matter of what you accept as a reasonable appearance.

As TT says blades are just a matter of sharpening ...and balance. Nice looking deck! My deck was on a 312. Not sure with a 10Hp what options you have. There is a big difference in the 2 HP from 10 to 12. Check the Kohler specs to see what I mean.

[CTPATRIOT 12]

Was wondering if i should stick with stock blades,or look at Gators or???

[Hydro 130]

I have not had gators but if they leave a finer cut as they say they do then I would go with them because after the clippings dry they do look a little rough for a couple of days.

[Hodge71 663]

I have gator blades on my 416 and I must say they are a HUGE improvement over stockers. They definitely cut better, not sure why.They say they have more "lift" than regualr blades and I must say the mulched the living hell outta my leaves this year. Last year I was out with the sweeper everytime I cut the grass in the fall. This year, no sweeper. Cut the grass twice in 90 degree different directions and instant fertilizer, the dry leaves turn to almost powder. In the summer the clippings are finer but you cant go for 3 weeks between cuts or the lawn will still look like poop...

[CRE1992 135]

I would run high lift blades, gators are not necessary. I like regular high lift blades better anyways. They cost less and cut better in my opinion. They also allow for more air flow. If you are going to get new blades, get high lifts for now, when the rest of the Oregon gator G5 line comes out, get those. Regular gators don't have anything on the g6 and g5 gators.

[IthacaJeff 151]

A set of stock Toro/WH blades for that deck may run about $40, Gator blades I'm not sure. Pull out the angle

grinder or put the blades on the bench grinder for free. I FINALLY bought new blades last year after my old

ones were past sharpening. Maybe I'm just not that fussy over my grass. . .

Jeff

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Some good information from a company that knows how to build machines that cut grass:

http://media.toro.co...rmance_turf.pdf

That may not be Wheel Horse-specific, but the deck designs are similar.

(Their Atomic blades are the equivalent of Gator blades)

Rotary mower blades do not have to be razor-sharp. As a matter of fact, making them that sharp is a waste of time since they "dull out" quickly from the dirt that's picked up. There are many variables, but you can probably get away with touching up the blades on residential mowers about every 10 hours of operation.

I "babysit" up to 30 rotary blades on a weekly basis. (during season) Unless you have an unlimited budget, over-sharpening is nothing more than grinding your money away. Whatever you do, don't use a coarse grinding wheel and don't overheat the blade. Balancing is necessary for increased spindle bearing life.

For what it's worth, I run "standard" OEM blades on all of my Wheel Horse decks and I will only replace blades if they're cracked, bent, excessively abraded at the sail, or ground back to the base of the sail.