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rmaynard

Snow Thrower Repairs - Welding Question

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rmaynard

While doing some maintenance on a snow thrower that I just acquired, I noticed that there were some bumps in the top of the housing near the chute. I tapped it with a hammer and found that the previous owner had applied Bondo over the cracked metal. After cleaning off the Bondo, I am left with the question, should I just weld the cracks, or weld the cracks and weld a patch over them, or just weld a patch over the cracks?

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varosd

Bob,

It looks like you have a lot of metal there that can be welded and for good measure a patch on top. It does look like it failed along the original factory weld. V

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Suburban 550

Bob,

It looks like you have a lot of metal there that can be welded and for good measure a patch on top. It does look like it failed along the original factory weld. V

Bob, I would have to agree. If a plate could be welded on and not be in the way of anything, it will only make it stronger.

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rmaynard

Thanks guys. I should be about to fashion a patch from 1/8 or 3/16" plate stock that can be welded over the repaired cracks and not interfere with the movement of the chute flange.

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TT

That's supposed to be a non-stressed area. (unless you hit something hard)

I would drill a hole at the end of each crack, hammer the metal back in place, open up the cracks a little with a cut-off wheel, and weld from both sides - inside first.

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squonk

I would use a weld -thru primer as well. Rust and decay start at welded area's first and that probably why you got those cracks. The welds failed and just kept going.

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sorekiwi

Im with Terry on that one, I'd weld both sides and the hole at the end of the crack should stop it wanting to continue.

It doesnt look to me that the welds failed - they seem to be attached to the steel just fine, and the weld was strong enough for the steel to tear away instead of the joint opening up.

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rmaynard

My neighbor is lending me his MIG welder for a while. I haven't welded since 1980, and I have never used a MIG, so I think I will practice on what's left of my old 6-2211, then when I get the hang of it, try my hand at this repair. Thanks for all the replies. Good or bad, I will post pictures of the results.post-2221-0-64389800-1325526114.gif

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steamfitter

i agree with terry weld what you have and if welded properly ,it will be stronger than when it was made

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Kelly

I've welded 2 up with the same cracks, one I had to pull the lower part of the blower forward, I hit a ice bank on the other side of the road and the housing at the bottom tried to rotate backwards, making it crack in that very spot, both sides, that is a stong point as the blower hitch mounts right behind that, mine went back so far the aguer hit the back of the housing, another common crack is on top out where the sides are welded in the front, I've fixed many of them.

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ce318

Kelly, I agree with TT. I would drill 1/8 to 3/16 holes every inch of the cracks. Then v grind the cracks. then weld the whole thing in stages starting in the middle. I would also when finished welding every thing up I would do some cross crack welds under the crack. I have done many of these type of welds on flail and disc mowers on the ranch. They always hold real well and can be finished as a side note, I always paint por15 on the unseen side for rust prevention. I like a tig welder but a wire feed will works as well. Chris

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rmaynard

I spent a couple of hours getting to know my MIG welder yesterday. I practiced on an old snow thrower and thought I had the hang of it. Then I went to my project thrower and attempted to weld the cracks. The results...I AM NOT A WELDER. :angry-cussingblack: My eyesight is not that good for close-up work, and with a dark lens in front of my glasses, I thought I was moving along pretty good until I lifted the helmet and saw that I had turned the cracks into holes. So now I was looking at filling holes, not repairing cracks. I pulled out the camera to document my lack of success and darned if the camera decided to crap out on me. :angry-cussingblack: So, no pictures.

Turns out I had much more success filling the holes than I did trying to mend the cracks. :confusion-shrug: After a little angle grinder action, and some more touch-up with the MIG, I have a pretty successful (I hope) repair. I sprayed a little primer on it to prevent rusting. Hope to finish it up today, and if I can get the camera working, I will take some "after" pictures.

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rmaynard

A little body filler to smooth the surface, and another coat of primer. Borrowed my wife's camera and got a few after pictures.

BEFORE

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AFTER

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BEFORE

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AFTER

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Both the top side and underside are welded now, and I will see how it holds up to some use this winter (if we ever get any snow).

Sorry that I couldn't document the process, but suffice to say, it was not a pretty sight.

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can whlvr

ya welding is an art and a skill that i have not got the hang of very good,and i do a fair bit,i fart around all the time and am still not able to lay a nice bead,its easyier on thicker metal,these implements are relatively thin,so its esay to blow holes,i use my stick welder to make holes and im really good at that(by making holes i mean intended holes instead of a drill)

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MikesRJ

Looks good!

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rmaynard

Follow-up

After sanding and treating the rust with a good rust converter, I put a couple coats of Ruddy Brown primer on my repaired (welded) snow thrower housing. Here are a couple pictures.

Here is a close-up of one of the repaired areas

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Going to let that cure, then a couple of coats of red, and reassembly begins.

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AMC RULES

Really good looking repairs Bob. :thumbs:

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