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Hodge71

18 auto wheels

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Hodge71

Just was wondering if you guys knew if it was possible to flip the wheels on my D to move the offset out. This would make the tires stick out from the rear fenders a bit but would widen the stance and therefore make it more stable. I got my new R4 industrial tread 28s today and figured it might perform better, at least look better without them tucked underneath so far. Has anyone tried this before, or can shed some light on doing it?

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Trouty56

I'll have to look but....I thought they were out.....

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Hodge71

hmm It definitely possible Bob. I can tell you mine arent, but maybe they were installed wrong. I know the 15" factory cast iron weights on mine were put on backwards according to the D's I've seen with them on.

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varosd

Jeff,

How is the 73 Auto coming along? any pictures?

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Hodge71

Don,

Its coming along slow. I'm waiting for my Harley coil to come in for it. The Kohler coil was $215, the Harley coil was $35. First time I ever heard of anyhting Harley being cheaper. I got my R-4 tires for the back today. I did clean and rebuild the carb, replaced the fuel pump and lines. I ordered new 18X9.50-8 turf savers for the front and they should be here Monday. I took off the factory wheel weights and shotblasted them and repainted them IH red tonight. Got valspar IH white/almond for the wheels. As soon as I get the crappy car tires that were put on it taken off I'm gonna blast and repaint the wheels. I guess tractor tires were too expensive so they put cars tires on it. I took the dozer/snow blade apart tonight too. I cant believe how abused this thing was. The bottom is so bent it looks like they hit a manhole cover at 60 mph. I would imagine I have about 3 hours of welding and grinding plus a 1 pound spool of wire before I'm satified with it. All of the holes are ovalled out so that theres so much slop in the blade its not funny. Gonna reinforce all the holes with heavy washers and weld them up so its all smooth again. Theres no linkage to move the blade and the proper handle and linkage to pull the pivot pin is gone too. So there will be more custom metal fab involved there. I made a new cutting edge for it out of 5/8X4" cutting edge I found laying around. It weighs about 55 pounds, but it'll never wear out...lol. I got the belt that runs from the Kohler down to the rear PTO pulley and that'll be on tomorrow hopefully. I'm also gonna soak the damn thing in purple power and hit it with the pressure washer and some hot water. I bet there a quart of oil just laying everywhere on it. The PO blew the hydro lines going to the rear and it sprayed oil everywhere I guess until it ran out and wouldnt move. I checked the dipstick when I got it and it was bone dry. It looks like the motor leaked oil to cuz it's really gunked up too. I do have pics but I'm hesitant to post them yet. It really looks bad and I'd sooner post pics of it running again.. I dont know, maybe I will post them tomorrow so that we can see its progress. I wish I had the time to diasassemble the whole tractor and do it from the ground up , but its my plow vehicle and time wont allow it. Its gotta snow soon.

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Trouty56

Jeff, I put mine on with the offset inward. Truthfully I had no guidance on this subject when I got my 15 inch wheels. It just looked like the lug bolt holes were made to accept the lug bolts that way. When you ask about it I thought for sure they were the other way....If you mount them out take a pick of it and post it. So how do the others mount their 15 inch wheels????

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