steering wheel removal

[hodge 6]

I need to pull the wheel off my 520- what is the best way to remove the roll pin? Drill it out? I have tried tapping it with a punch, but it won't move. :whistle:

[64s 83]

Just apply some penetrating oil - PB Blaster - and use a flat punch just smaller than the outside diameter of the roll pin. I just did two steering wheel pins that were sitting outside for umteen years and they came right out - now to get the wheels off :whistle:

[kj4kicks 151]

Can't drill it out Hodge. It's hardened steel. You might try soaking it with PB Blaster for awhile. After that, you will need to drive the pin out. Hold the steering wheel against your hip so you don't crack the dash tower. Use a big hammer, and a 1/4" punch.

Keep us posted.

[Duff 206]

Can't drill it out Hodge. It's hardened steel. You might try soaking it with PB Blaster for awhile. After that, you will need to drive the pin out. Hold the steering wheel against your hip so you don't crack the dash tower. Use a big hammer, and a 1/4" punch.

Keep us posted.

I had a similar situation with the mule drive knob on my 312-8 and no punch, so I used an old drill bit because of its hardened steel. I ground off the tip and made it into a punch, then hammered it through. The part about supporting the wheel to avoid cracking anything is first-rate advice!

Good luck!

Deereman :whistle:

[kj4kicks 151]

I had a similar situation with the mule drive knob on my 312-8 and no punch, so I used an old drill bit because of its hardened steel. I ground off the tip and made it into a punch, then hammered it through. The part about supporting the wheel to avoid cracking anything is first-rate advice!

Good luck!

Deereman

Don't take this the wrong way, that may do in a pinch. I'd say you "got away with one" there.

The problem is that most drill bits are also hardened steel. hitting the 2 together could cause the drill bit to splinter or even shatter. The roll pin in the steering column is usually pretty tight also.

[Jim_M 178]

Several years ago I learned the hard way to never use a drill for a punch and I still have the scar to prove it.

If you don't have the right punch, go buy one, it will be cheaper than stitches or an eye injury.

[Dual Wheels 2]

I use an air chisel...with roll pin punches and a junk socket to cushin between the two...works every time.(on the larger roll pins) Take the chisel point and cut it to fit in a socket (ratchet side) of the same size as the roll pin punch(the end you would hammer on)...Place the punch on the pin..socket on the punch then the air chsel in the square end of the socket..hold it tight (wearing a good pair of gloves)..apply a little pressure and squeze the trigger on the air chisel...the roll pin will come out pretty easy.... :whistle:

[Duff 206]

Several years ago I learned the hard way to never use a drill for a punch and I still have the scar to prove it.

If you don't have the right punch, go buy one, it will be cheaper than stitches or an eye injury.

Good point, Jim- I should have put in that post that I always wear gloves and safety glasses whenever I'm beating on any type of metal using another piece of metal, except nails into wood, and even then I still wear the glasses. I've had the faces of hammers "flake" and pieces go flying. My bad.

Deereman

[DMESS 24]

The old RJ/Suburbans gave you the luxury of being able to pull the whole steering wheel/column and slapping it into a vice. made things much easier. I'm guessing this isn't an option considering the complexity of the 520. I've yet to pull one of those apart.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

I use an air chisel...with roll pin punches and a junk socket to cushin between the two...works every time.(on the larger roll pins) Take the chisel point and cut it to fit in a socket (ratchet side) of the same size as the roll pin punch(the end you would hammer on)...Place the punch on the pin..socket on the punch then the air chsel in the square end of the socket..hold it tight (wearing a good pair of gloves)..apply a little pressure and squeze the trigger on the air chisel...the roll pin will come out pretty easy....

Dang you Dual Wheels ya beat me to the punch!

Yep this is the way to go lemme tell you 27 years being a pipe fitter there is something to say about FREQUENCY the best way to loosen a pipe fitting whether it be a union, coupling or fitting is take a heavy steel block and put on the opposite side and smack the fitting squarely. Same goes for this instance use the air chisel method those hundreds of percussions per minute will loosen the rust along with your favorite penetrant. I have had good sucess with this like BIG WHEELS has!

Duke

[linen beige 14]

The old RJ/Suburbans gave you the luxury of being able to pull the whole steering wheel/column and slapping it into a vice. made things much easier. I'm guessing this isn't an option considering the complexity of the 520. I've yet to pull one of those apart.

On these older wheels, with all the metal around them and nothing to melt, I just heat the pins cherry red to take the temper out of them. Then if they won't push out with a punch, drill them out.

The drill bit will sometimes "catch" the slit in the pin a short way in and spin it right out.

On newer ones with plastic wheel centers, if you can get the whole steering column out, NOTHING beats a GOOD shop press Though a vice is a good substitute.). A few easy pumps and POOF! no more stuck roll pin.