1100 Special: How to reconnect Stator?

[pulse301 0]

Since I have gotten the Briggs engine running very smoothly, I think I'm ready to tackle the electrical mess. Below you can see a picture of what I'm trying to explain.

The picture is taken from the flywheel side of the tractor, you are looking at a starter head on, on th eleft hand side of the picture, and the solenoid on the right hand side. If you look in the bottom left hand side of the picture, you can just barely see a black wire with a connector on it (the connector is red and silver). That wire, along with 1 other is just floating there, not connected ot anything...well, except for the stator. When I had the tractor running it would hit the metal every once in a while and throw some sparks. Anyways, if you follow this http://i15.tinypic.com/52bj7rl.jpg you will see the wiring diagram I am working off of. It was given to me with the tractor along with a replacement stator that was purchased off ebay. I don't really know if I need the replacement stator yet. OK, so the meat of the question. You see in the top of the picture, in the middle is a Hella 4rd 933 332-01 Relay which is in the location of what the wiring diagram shows a Rectifier Regulator should be. I have the rectifier regulator...sitting in a empty can of mandarin oranges. I know a rectifier regulator is basically a resistor that only allows a certain amount of voltage through, and sends the rest to ground. But doesn't a relay just allow voltage to pass through if current is applied the electromagnet? Does it actually regulate the amount of voltage? If it does, and that is the correct replacement for the Rectifier Regulator, how in the heck do I hook it up to the stator? As you can see, it has 3 wires coming from it, the purple and blue ones hook into a nother purple and a black wire (it's hard to tell from the pic, but the blue wire coming from the relay is going into the purple wire, then the purple wire is going into the black one. Then there is the orange wire...it is going no where, it is just floating there. So how do I correctly rewire this mess? I'd like to be able to charge my battery while the engine is running. BTW, I would post that picture from the link, but I have no idea who owns it or where it came from, and I don't feel like violating any copyrights.

Thanks for any insight you can provide!

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

:WRS:

I'll sort this out more when I get home later, but here's a start...........

#1 - the relay works in conjunction with safety switches and has nothing to do with the charging system. Although not the OEM p/n 106833 relay, (which is now close to $50) a relay is a relay - for the sake of this discussion.

#2 - the alternator (stator) should be of the dual-circuit design. The charge (diode-rectifed) wire will get connected to the "R" teminal on the ignition switch and the other wire supplies 70 watt AC power for the headlight circuit.

What color is the other wire from the stator? (I'm guessing yellow or red)

[pulse301 0]

TT,

Thanks for the reply (and the welcome). You are correct, the other wire is red. I do not have a headlight on the tractor. Does that mean I should cap off the other wire...or maybe I should wire in some headlights...hmmmm...

How can I test the safety switches? I assume there is 1 for keeping the engine from starting with the PTO engaged, and another that would disengage the PTO if I get off the seat? (If I should break that out into a separate thread let me know).

Thanks,

Dusty

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

The red wire should be the one coming from the charging coils of the stator. That would be the wire to connect to the "R" terminal of the ignition switch - as I had mentioned before.

Adding lights is entirely up to you. All you would need to do is connect the black wire from the stator to one terminal of an SPST toggle switch, and connect the lights to the other terminal.

This is where it gets ugly:

The safety switches consist of one on the clutch pedal, one on the seat, and one at the PTO engagement lever.

The clutch pedal switch and "half" of the PTO switch (closed when PTO disengaged) are wired into the starter circuit. The clutch pedal has to be depressed and the PTO must be off to complete the circuit between the "S" terminal on the ignition switch and the "trigger" (small) post on the starter solenoid.

This is going from memory - and is not guaranteed to be 100% correct.

The wiring on this tractor is a slightly modified version of the Kohler-powered models when it comes to the PTO interlock circuit......

Because a Briggs magneto needs grounded to "kill" the spark, a normally-closed relay was installed to use powered interlock circuits (which were designed to work on the battery-ignition Kohlers) to perform that function. (confused yet? ) The two "switched" connections of the relay are connected to the kill wire from the magneto and to chassis ground. As long as no power is being applied to the coil of the relay, those contacts remain closed and the engine does not have spark. When the coil in the relay is energized, the contacts open and the "kill" circuit is disconnected.

The "I" terminal of the ignition switch normally supplies battery power directly to the coil of the relay when the PTO is disengaged, but power is "diverted" through the safety (interlock) circuit as soon as the PTO lever is engaged.

Once the PTO is engaged, the operator presence (seat) switch and the other "half" of the PTO lever switch complete a circuit to supply power to the holding coil of the relay when the PTO is engaged. If you leave the seat, it opens the circuit, power no longer holds the contacts open on the relay, the magneto grounds out, and the engine shuts off.

Clear as mud, eh? :hide:

[varosd 1,185]

I agree with Terry, going through systematically helps you from from "guessing" and buying parts that you don't need (me included!)

[pulse301 0]

Terry, this was actually very clear. I will have to draw it out to make it a littler clearer, but I think you described it perfect. I'm pretty sure I am going to do what varosd said and go through it all systematically. Thanks! I will do some wiring work and see what other kinds of questions I run into.

Thanks!

Dusty