Harrow attachment for Grader Blade

[Hydro 130]

I have a mid mount 50" grader blade which attaches to the rear axle. I believe this is the later version as opposed to the mid mount style connected to the attach a matic. Often even with down pressure the ground suface is very hard. Has anyone on this forum ever considered or designed a removable peg tooth harrow that would mount on the grader blade to rough up the soil then be removed so the loose soil could graded. I have a parking lot full of pot holes and I know my Wheel Horse could do it if only the ground were able to be roughed up first. :idea:

[dennist 139]

Sounds like a great idea. Like teeth on a front end loader.

[MaineDad 85]

They made a mid mount cultivator that would do just what you need

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

I had intended on making a tooth bar for my home-built grader blade but it hasn't happened yet.

My plan was to weld teeth (railroad spikes ) to a piece of flat steel and set it up so it would clamp up over the bottom edge of the moldboard. I wanted it for breaking up packed & frozen snow / ice from a gravel driveway.

I really doubt that cultivator shovels would take the pressure of trying to break hard pan loose - especially when forced by hydraulic downpressure. I have actually seen the standards bend on the OEM cults. :blink:

[can whlvr 991]

i have a red neck one that i push and pull on my dozer blade,its a harrow that i hook up to the blade,i have this too but its not on a grader blade

this is the ripper,and how i pull it

[rexman72 210]

that looks like one mean machine

i have a red neck one that i push and pull on my dozer blade,its a harrow that i hook up to the blade,i have this too but its not on a grader blade

this is the ripper,and how i pull it

[Ole MN 11]

I made a bar out of chanel iron 11" points i got @ country macy's. Attached to my back blade it has about 8 teeth across. All bolted togather (no welder) Its adjustable show more of the tooth or less. used it to break the ground (clay) when i was doing some landscaping.

worked ok but no down pressure on my 3pt. finally i broke one of the lift points. I'll have to take a picutre.

[Hydro 130]

I'll have to take a picutre.

Yes please. Don your Red Neck version is almost what I had in mind. Years ago I once had access to a small set of peg tooth harrows and they used something like a railroad spike, with some weight they worked very well dragged by my IH 149. After trying my grader blade I just know if is capable of more if only I could loosen up the hard packed surface.

I wondered whether or not something could be incorporated into a removable cutting edge? so it could be bolted in 3-4 points and no so many spikes that the weight of the blade would penetrate. Can always make several passes.

[can whlvr 991]

i see no reason why some 3/4 rebar to a strip of 1/4 plate and like gary said bolted to the grader blade,i found with my old grader (that got stolen)was not real good at ripping too much,even after a rain i found that the wheels spin once you try to dig too much,dragging something behind seemed to work good,but a grader ripper will work i think too,probally not as fast ,some weight on the blade and tractor allways helps,that dually had liquid in the inner wheels,im not sure how much tooth would be allowed,need to lift it some to move around without it hitting too much,you will have to play around with it,the pics arnt really my hill billy setup,i dont have picks of that,its on the front of the tractor,cant lift it its 5x5 feet,but i can push it and pull it,but only on the drive way

[Hydro 130]

Don it may be that pulling draws the back end down and gives better traction

[can whlvr 991]

ya i think you are right,and the grader lifts on the tractor reducing weight

[jay in nc 209]

TT i built a scarifer - drag to rough up the neighbors horse riding ring. i used 12 r.r. spikes arranged in a 30 in. triangle it looked great but he brought it back in 3 weeks because the spikes kept bending & then breaking off.right below the welds. i fixed it by replacing the spikes with 4 in pieces of pipe with form board stakes w. a cotter pin above & below the pipe to hold the stakes. the r.r. spikes are too brittle to stand up to side force. but the idea of a scarifer for the blade is a sound idea.

[Hydro 130]

Thanks Jay, I would like to try to build something for next spring.

[ce318 13]

I used a JD road grader on Mt Hood in Oregon that had serrated teeth on the cutting edge of the molboard, this was designed to cut snow pak off the roads. A typical set of bits would last a week, with the JD bits (serrated) we could go a month and this was 3, 8 hour shifts 7 days a week. Here is my computer rendition of the bit (UUUUUUUUUUUUU) if the U's were upside down and conected between each other you would have a good idea of what I am explaining. the open portion of the upside down (U) is where material breaks up the cutting edge was beveled forward like a single cut edge chissel. Hope that gives you and idea.

[Rollerman 290]

I have a mid 60ies short frame "mutt" I've built up useing an 8 speed & some 520 parts.

It has a 50" mid mount grader blade on it, I've been toying with the idea of makeing a front mounted ripper for it like the big graders where I work.

[Hydro 130]

I was wondering about a piece of channel or two pieces of angle welded together to make a C and then drilling top and bottom to run some type of bar through and then anchor the bars top and bottom. Bolt through the back of the channel to the grader blade in several locations. I think the secret here is to remember what we have for a tractor and also maybe not go too wide. Even if you could loosen 2 inches of soil at a time you would be doing something.