Rear axle hitch question

[John159 0]

I`m running a 2002 315-8 with a rear axle hitch made by someone selling on Ebay. The hitch worked fine until I added manual down pressure to the grader blade using the solid link part number 7706. The blade popped out of the hitch when I used down pressure and then shifted toward the right tire knocking out the tire valve.

With down pressure applied, the only bolt to hold the lever in place is located at the pivot point. I found pictures of original manufacturer hitches with what appeared to be two bolts on the levers. One at the pivot point and one further down holding the lever in place.

I could be wrong, but I believe that this tractor has a slightly larger axle than what was on some other tractors in the 300 series. I understand that the axle is 1 and 1/8 inches. The outside of the axle measures between 2 and 2 and ¼ inches depending on where it is measured. I did have to buy longer bolts to attach the rear axle hitch I purchased on Ebay to my tractor.

Should any hitch that worked on a 300 series tractor also work on the 315-8? Is there more than one style of rear axle hitches that works with this tractor? And did some or all of the hitches come with bolts on the levers to keep it in place while using it with down pressure? Please take me to school. I need a Wheel Horse lesson. Thanks.

[Kelly 1,028]

your axle housing is the same as all the unidrive housings as far as size where the bracket mounts, when speaking of axle size they refering to the axle shaft the round part the hub is on, some of the newer axle brackets have holes in them to put small clevis pins to keep them from coming open, they are almost a must when using a tiller, you can close your brackets and drill a hole through them so you can install a pin or small bolt to lock them from opening, another issue with the ebay brackets is the locater bar that should be welded between them, yours does not have, it keeps the correct spacing on them, not a must, but does help in keeping them in place when a lot of force is put on them, and yes a axle bracket from the 60' to presant will work on your tractor.

I have a factory set if you want one, send me a PM.

[tgranthamfd 28]

I have a 2005 315-8. I put a old set on, that I bought from a member on here, and it fit and worked just fine. There should be someone on here that has a extra set or I see them on e-bay all of the time. I got mine for a tiller and they did not have the extra hole, for the pin, but I have had no issues, at all, with them comming open on me.

[can whlvr 991]

just like kelly said,put the pin holes and the blade will never come out again,and it allways seems to be at the worst time when they come off,stuck in a snow bank 300 yards from the shop :dunno:

[KyBlue 652]

Yep, the tiller plays heck on em too. I have to crank em down So tight to keep them in place, im surprised I have not snapped a bolt yet.. at least the seller finally modified them to fit up under the the axle, not behind.

[Forest Road 594]

I bought some stuff from the same guy on Ebay a couple years ago. Not only was he unresponsive but he hasn't made any changes to the stuff he's selling. He's taking peoples money for an incomplete half fast product.

Drill some holes, use a couple pins and you're in business. Or get a used wheel horse factory hitch $50 max!

[John159 0]

Thanks guys. I was going to drill holes in the Ebay hitches and use pins, but I decided to just buy an actual Wheel Horse hitch. I don't have a WH hitch for reference yet, but I suspect the pins simply keep the levers in place to allow the levers to bare the weight. The way the Ebay hitches fit on my tractor, the pins could/would end up baring weight. Maybe they work well for other people. Even though it didn't work for me, I like that people are trying to make products for our tractors. In time, Toro will be out of the picture and all we will have is old stock, parts from dead tractors and parts manufactured by third parties. I'm just happy that I only lost a tire valve. At least I now know how to change a tire valve. These tractors are fun.

[fourwheels0 191]

here's a pic of the wheel horse hitch.

[can whlvr 991]

if the hitch was built right the locking levers snug up the 3/4 bar in the hitch and the pins really dont take any weight,ive done just about every thing you could and shouldnt do with the plow brackets,using plows and tiller grader blades etc,never dropped an implement or even bent a pin

[John159 0]

Thanks. I picked up an original rear axle hitch. It holds onto the bar and does not let go unless that is what I want. Can someone tell me exactly what that L shaped piece on the axle hitch is supposed to do. The hitch I picked up only had one attached. The picture that fourwheels0 posted shows this piece on both sides of the hitch. I think the piece is part number 7713 (Spacer-Bracket). I'm trying to figure out if I need to get a hold of another one or if I should just remove the one that came with my hitch.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Can someone tell me exactly what that L shaped piece on the axle hitch is supposed to do.

Although there are some different ideas floating around as to what purpose the spacers purpose really serve, I believe this will help:

They are used as shims to help keep the hitch tight and deter twisting on the rear axle housing.

[varosd 1,185]

Terry, where did you conjure up the great diagram? Can you save it under the download section? It always seems like the simple things like the ST routing diagram that I have to remember each frosty morning!

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

That's straight out of a #79350 dozer blade owner's manual. ;)

[tgranthamfd 28]

Good info there, guys. I have never seen the L shaped bracket in any photo's before. I have bought 3 or 4 sets of mounts, and none of the L's came with any of mine. Nice to know what they are for. :eusa-think:

[smoreau 658]

I had no clue that's what they were for. I have 2 sets of them, and all my tractors are hydro accept my dads. so I will install two of them on his and give the other two to my brothers as he has a 8 speed also. Now I know :)

[varosd 1,185]

I got just the bracket frame with the locking levers attached and had to cut some thick 1 1/2 wide hardend steel and drilled some 3/8 holes and I think I will order the 3 1/2 carriage bolts, washers and nuts in stainless steel to prevent rust. SS should be strong enough, right? I see a lot of the brackets not having the L shaped brackets but can fab something if I find it shifting...you would think, how well does just a L shaped prevent twisting as opposed to a C shaped style like some trailer hitches have. just using the snowblade, might be a moot point, but from what I hear about using a tiller...

[wingrider 21]

I picked up a 48" plow at Mentone last fall and the hitch that came with it had that L shaped piece with it. They said it would make

the hitch a lot more solid. I haven't put it on yet had to make a new cutting edge and replace the trip stops since they were wore off.

Hopefully get it done next week while I'm not working. Good Luck

Wingrider

[bean 85]

My grandkids were out pushing piles of stone in our driveway with their '73 8hp. I was watching them and after they had moved a pretty good sized pile, they backed up and the blade stayed with the stone.the rear bracket had come open. I went searching for an answer and it looks like drilling a hole in each clip/bracket and inserting a bolt should do the trick.

thanks again for the great information, as usual