K341 on a 416-8 Knocking?

[JoeMonag 1]

I had the K341 on my 416 rebuilt last year. The crank was badly scored and had to be turned down .020". I had a 10 under rod, bored and clevite bearings machined to match the crank. Installed it on DEC 26th, hooked up my two stage blower and usesd all winter to move over 50 inches of accumlated snow. In the spring I removed the blower , and installed my JBjr. used it every week end all summer.

In the "I can't leave well enough department" I decided to set the timing monday night. I first set it staticly with a multi meter, and then checked it with a timing light. The engine developed a knock. I rechecked checked the timing Sat. morning and found it was advanced by about a 1/4" above the S mark. I reset the points using a multi meter to just begin to open as the S mark appeared in the site hole. Then I slowly rotated the fly-wheel until the points were fully opened, and gapped them at .020". I rechecked the timing with the light, and the S mark is just a hair below bearing plate.

The knock is all but gone. I have four questions:

Did I time it correctly? (I followed the Matt Gonitzke Article)

Is some minor knocking normal on an engine with out any load?

Can timing change slightly on a rebuilt engine?

Is there any way to check for "slop" between the rod and journal,with out removing the oil pan?

I am going to have a local small engine mechanic give it a listen before I remove the engine and separate it from the oil pan.

Thanks any advice you can forward. Joe in Norton

[can whlvr 991]

im not an expert but i would think wiyhout pulling some parts it will be hard to tell of rod splop,unless you know someone who can tell just by listening when its running

[DrabHorse 2]

Joe, maybe with the machine work on your crank and rod, it may be just a bit off the original center line of the crank and thus likes having the timing adjusted a bit to correct for that.

I have a K181 that I just recently adjusted the timing to what the correct position should be (checks out good with the timing light) and it sounds like it has a knock in it now(not sure how far off it was before). I wonder how accurate the stock timing position actually is, as in maybe some engines like having the timing a bit advance or retard from what the stock specs are. The engine has been getting more vibration to it recently and adjusting the timing didn't seem to change that, it is kind of a buzzy vibration, not smooth like it used to be. I am going to go back and mess with it some and see if I can get it better than it is now. Although I can hear some knocking in there by rotating it by hand that I don't know if its the crank or something else. http://s791.photobucket.com/albums/yy193/drabhorsephoto/kohler/?action=view&current=k181knock1.mp4

[rmaynard 14,952]

Matt's static timing goes like this in a nutshell:

First set the points to .020, then rotate the flywheel in the normal direction until the points just open. At that point, you should be lined up on the "S" mark. If not, readjust points and rotate again. Keep doing this until you have achieved the opening of the points at the "S" mark. Then the static timing is correct. DO NOT readjust the points after the setting is correct. They do not have to be at .020 to be correct.

The "slop" in the journal cannot be checked without pulling the pan. The best way to check it is by using Plastigage. The cap has to be removed from the rod and a piece of Plastigage is inserted between the rod and the journal. Then the cap is reinstalled and torqued. Then the cap is removed and the Plastigage is measured to determine the clearance.

[JoeMonag 1]

Bob, by set the gap .020", am I correct by turning the fly wheel to get the maximim extension of the points push rod, and then set the points to .020(which is TDC)? Then I understand, using a multi meter,set the points to just open at the "S" mark's appearance, centered in the site hole and or alligned with the mark onthe bearing plate. If done correctly, I should be able to check it with a timing light and the 'S" mark should allign with the mark on the bearing plate as the light flashes, with the engine running at 1200 rpm.

Am I correct also in understanding open points to advance, close to retard.

Joe in Norton

[rmaynard 14,952]

Bob, by set the gap to .020", am I correct by turning the fly wheel to get the maximim extension of the points push rod...

Correct

If done correctly, I should be able to check it with a timing light and the 'S" mark should align with the mark on the bearing plate as the light flashes, with the engine running at 1200 rpm.

Also correct. The RPM should not change the timing.

Am I correct also in understanding open points to advance, close to retard.

Correct