Steering bearing/bushing:

[Buckshot 1 15]

:wh: I have searched for the PN. two bolt bearing/bushing for the lower steering shaft for my 656 and could not fined it. Can anyone advise me of the PN and where to purchase one? for your time.

[rmaynard 16,344]

I think I answered this one either on the old board or Jr., but here it is.

The 656 did not have a bushing in that location. However, you can add one since the holes are there and there is enough room. The bushing that is used on newer models is part number 6472. I have seen these at TSC stores. Just measure the distance between the mounting holes and purchase one that has the proper flange and a 3/4" bushing.

[sorekiwi 761]

They're about $8 from your Toro dealer.

[rmaynard 16,344]

I went to TSC today and they no longer had the flanged bushings on the shelf in my local store. Best option is to buy one from a Toro dealer.

[Buckshot 1 15]

Bob and Sorekiwi, for your replies. I though I had seen it on the old board. One more question, is there anything I can do tighten up the front axle, it has some back and forth movement? :dunno:

[sorekiwi 761]

Bob and Sorekiwi, for your replies. I though I had seen it on the old board. One more question, is there anything I can do tighten up the front axle, it has some back and forth movement?

Its pretty common to have some back and forth movemt there and it drives me nuts. You can buy "machine bushings" at tractor supply, but off the top of my head they are .032 thick so may or may not go into the gap to take up some of the play.

On my "500 Special" thread I showed what I did there to eliminate fore/aft play as well as slop where the bolster pins goes through the frame: viewtopic.php?f=70&t=8138&start=30

[Buckshot 1 15]

:wh: Sorekiwi, You done a very nice job, on the axle pin rebuild. what did you use to open up the hole? I do not have a lathe but I have a Buddy that does all my machine work and he can make all the bushings I need. I've not measured the movement, but I am with you on the driving me nuts part. Now if I could get the steering wheel off, so that I can replace the bushing in the dash. I'd be a happy camper. for your reply.

[sorekiwi 761]

what did you use to open up the hole?

I just used a big Unibit in a handheld drill. It was just a cheap chinese one like this: http://www.wttool.com/index/page/produc ... s+%28WT%29

Try to get a unibit with the steps around 1/4" deep so it'll go most of the way through the frame material before starting to cut the next size. Harbor Freight carries a big one that goes up to 1 3/8 diameter, but I dont think the steps are deep enough to go all the way through.

Just keep the speed as slow as you can go, plenty of cutting oil, and hold onto the drill really well because its gonna want to grab and turn your wrist inside out...

[Buckshot 1 15]

:help: Sorekiwi, I will check into the uni-bit. I have a couple but they do not go that big. I have my late Grandfathers old 5/8" Black & Decker drill, that I can will use to drill the hole. It only turns 600 rpms and will definitely stand you on your head or break your wirist if the bit locks up. for your reply. :dunno:

[HorseFixer 2,013]

Is this what they look like?

This is the what the 417 looked like befor and after repair. Thanks Kiwi Mike for the Tip!

[sorekiwi 761]

Sorekiwi, I will check into the uni-bit. I have a couple but they do not go that big.

Don, you could use a carbide burr in a grinder, or a grinding stone or something. Trace around a washer to mark your hole and have at it! You want the hole to be a little bigger than your bushing to allow for some misalignment. When you weld your bush in you use the bolster pin to line up the bushing with the rear hole in the frame, so the new (big) hole that you made in the front doesnt have to be a precision operation.

[sorekiwi 761]

Now if I could get the steering wheel off, so that I can replace the bushing in the dash. I'd be a happy camper. for your reply.

What is your issue with the wheel Don? Is it getting the pin out? or getting the wheel off the shaft?

[aeallison 1]

I have the very same issues on my 312. I had been trying to figure out how to fix this problem. Thank you for posting this thread. I will waiting patiently for your results and pictures... lots of pictures. :dunno:

[Buckshot 1 15]

:help: Mike, I took the pin out using a roll pin pinch. Its the wheel its self that I can not get to move. This tractor sat outside for 3 years in the rain/snow with no cover and no steering wheel cap/insert. The wheel is really galled/rusted to the shaft. Any ideas/suggestion will be greatly appreciated. for your advice on the bushing, I do have several carbide dburring bits, I might go that route. :dunno:

[Kelly 1,033]

As for getting the wheel off, you said you have a machining buddy, I'm sure he can help you make a new steering shaft, cut the old one in half, where ever you like, then you can stick the wheel in a press, to get the shaft out, then take the lower half and chuck it up in a lathe to cut the old weld on the lower gear, take note on how much sticks out past the gear, get a new piece of 3/4" bar stock, put the gear on and reweld, on the other end you will need to drill a hole for the roll pin for the wheel, if your reading this and don't have a lathe to cut the weld you can do one of two other things, grind the weld off, or cut the gear about a 1/16" to 1/8" below the weld then the gear should slide off the shaft with a little help.

Oh and you might want to drill the hole install the wheel and do a mock up of all the parts, to center the wheel with the gears meshed, and put a tack weld on the gear, then disassemble to weld, a new shaft can help tighten the steering also, mainly at the bottom right below the gear, were they wear.

[pfrederi 18,707]

Mike, I took the pin out using a roll pin pinch. Its the wheel its self that I can not get to move. This tractor sat outside for 3 years in the rain/snow with no cover and no steering wheel cap/insert. The wheel is really galled/rusted to the shaft. Any ideas/suggestion will be greatly appreciated. for your advice on the bushing, I do have several carbide dburring bits, I might go that route.

Take the shaft and wheel and clamp it vertically in your vise. The gear end down and against the base of the movable jaw (flat part that contains the screw drive). Now get an impact socket that will clear the shaft and sit against the steel ring part of the steering wheel. (I am assuming you have put some PB Blaster, Kroil etc on the wheel, if not add some) Use some emory cloth to clean the rust off the shaft below the steering wheel. Standing on a stool put the socket in the wheel hub and using a BFH drive the wheel down the shaft. It will move down easier than trying to pull. Then clean up the now exposed end of the shaft and the wheel will pull off easily.

[aeallison 1]

Standing on a stool put the socket in the wheel hub and using a BFH drive the wheel down the shaft.

I don't think that a BFH is a Badly Fileted Herring either. Use extreme force! :wh:

[Buckshot 1 15]

:help: Kelly & Pfrederi, for your replies. I am going to try, Pfrederi suggestion first and then if that fails on to Kellys suggestion. Kelly, I actually had a Pal of mine suggest about the cutting the shaft into and putting the wheel in my press. Then have a sleeve machined to fit both halves of the shaft and either weld or roll pin the sleeve to the shaft. I do know one thing that if and when, I get the wheel off. Upon re-installing there will be plenty of anti-seize used. :dunno:

[Buckshot 1 15]

: To everyone that replied to my post. I got the wheel off. Pfrederi, could not get your suggestion to work. Kelly, used part of your and my Buddy's suggestion. Cut the shaft into and use my 12 ton press and pressed the shaft out of the wheel, it was all the 12 ton wanted. My machinist pal is making me a sleeve, will have it this AM and back together it goes. again for all your replies. :help:

[peter lena 9,299]

@Buckshot1  love those flanged bearings , btw  , while you are in that area , did you expose the starting end point on your  pto lever , area ? typically a loose / sloppy lever starting point , if you firm that up with 3/8 to 7/16 " washers / grease lubricant , it moves with solid , smooth action, also pulls the side of the lever into the outside of the console . detailed mine for function , also replaced  loose  trunnion , fitting with a heim joint , used a 3/8 x 24 die nut , to over thread original threads , adjust to exact setting , works with total ease and holds down in use, pete