rusted on wheels still!!!/progress on the tracto

[trainman 0]

I have gone through 3 cans on Pb blaster all summer clips and washers removed and cannot get these wheels to budge! Now got the wheel horse on a jack stand on a angle hoping the Pb will soak in. I saw that sea foam now has a penetrate spray but it's $10 a can must be 24kt spray. not sure that will work either. I have done a lot on that tractor this summer it's coming along. Only thing I worry now if i bend the rim on the rear tire are these rims easy to find? it's a 18" tire. this winter I am dropping the deck so i can rebuild the pto new bearings and seals and a clutch adjustment it needs badly have to let the clutch almost all the way out for it to move then jumps. But the belt that goes from the pto to the rear trans pulley need to be changed too. Any tips you guys have would be great since all my posts get looked at and not many reply. :dunno:

[fourwheels0 191]

well depending on what tractor you have.

i'd take the wheel and hub off as one unit and then bang the hub off the wheel.

seems like this would be easier than what your going through now.

good luck.

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,695]

Which tractor do you have? All mine have 12" rear rims. You must have the ones that slide onto the axle right? On a keyed or splined shaft? Have you tried heating it with a torch? I once had a Craftsman and wanted to get the rear rim/tire off and after a few whacks with a dead-blow hammer the rim/tire and AXLE was laying on the ground.

I never did get it apart so I cant offer much help, sorry.

Mike..........

[ben06351 19]

Can't say much about the rusty wheel prob, but the Deep Creep by sea Foam is GREAT stuff. I love it.

[Kelly 1,028]

I will say to start, do not pound on the rim from the back you will pop the axle out like sparky said, last rim I had like that I cut the rim off at the center hub, then split the hub with a grinder and peeled it off the axle, I had another set of rims to use but the center hub was not as long as the orig. so I used spacers out of tubing to make up the diff. rims from other brands will fit, many use the peerless and spicer axle.

[trainman 0]

well the tractor is a newer one that most have on this board. it's a wheel horse 211-5 11 hp 37" deck 5 speed. back wheels are 18x9.50-8 I cannot get them off the axle! I don't have extra rims and no clue where to get a pair of used ones where I wont get shafted on the price for used. This is my first tractor, the left tire keeps going flat every two days. other tire has two nails in them but doesn't leak air, they have tubes Tires have some dry rot but not bad and i don't have $65 for one tire from TSC I have heard the horror stories on the axle's popping out or breaking a axle and yes I have the peerless tranny with mystery check plug for the oil and the disc brake that doesn't work. I would like to up grade some things to the newer wheel horse tractors from the 90's before production stopped on them. I would like to break the tire down on the tractor and then get the wheel off but i am afraid something will break or I wont get the tire off I am still using it for leaves in wonderful Michigan blah!

[wheelhorse656 20]

This happend on my grandpas 1985 MTD Ranch King. The 1 came off fine and the other is still on it and i dont thing its ever comin off. would like to see what you do to get it off! good luck :dunno:

[Kelly 1,028]

I see your in MI. and only about a 45 min. drive from me, I have a new pair of tires that size I'll sell for a good price $40 for both, they are on rims that may or may not fit, included in the sale, send me a PM

[Rooster 191]

To remove stuck bolts....

Heat the bolt and surrounding part cherry red with a torch, then quench with water.

Basically the expansion and then sudden contraction, as well as the different expansion and contraction rates of the different parts will break the rust free.

I used to work for a valve company, we would have large valves come in after years of use that were rusted tight...this worked every time!

Another less invasive option I have heard of and been waiting for an opportunity to try..., if possible put the assembly in an E-tank, that will remove the rust holding the bolt in the hole!

[aeallison 1]

To remove stuck bolts....

Heat the bolt and surrounding part cherry red with a torch, then quench with water.

Basically the expansion and then sudden contraction, as well as the different expansion and contraction rates of the different parts will break the rust free.

I used to work for a valve company, we would have large valves come in after years of use that were rusted tight...this worked every time!

Another less invasive option I have heard of and been waiting for an opportunity to try..., if possible put the assembly in an E-tank, that will remove the rust holding the bolt in the hole!

I have an old machinist's vice that my neighbor was going to throw away. I asked him why he was tossing it out and he said he had had it since he was a kid and it had been rusted shut ever since he could remember. He said he tried everything, heating, beating and even soaked it in diesel for over a year. He gave me the vice and I dropped it in my e-tank overnight, the next day I took it out, gave it a few whacks with a small hammer and it freed up. I was amazed. I highly recommend this procedure. :dunno:

[rmaynard 14,952]

Another less invasive option I have heard of and been waiting for an opportunity to try..., if possible put the assembly in an E-tank, that will remove the rust holding the bolt in the hole!

Trainman's problem is that the wheel itself (with built-in hub) is rusted to the axle. It's not a hub where he can take the wheel off. then muscle off the hub with a puller. I think e-tanking is out of the question.

[aeallison 1]

Another less invasive option I have heard of and been waiting for an opportunity to try..., if possible put the assembly in an E-tank, that will remove the rust holding the bolt in the hole!

Trainman's problem is that the wheel itself (with built-in hub) is rusted to the axle. It's not a hub where he can take the wheel off. then muscle off the hub with a puller. I think e-tanking is out of the question.

I have several old lawn tractor skeletons that have this same problem, I hope someone arrives at a conclusive and non-invasive procedure to remove these. I have used these in the past to put on garden carts and other projects, but the idea of grinding them off or heating them just doesn't seem fun at all. I wonder if suspending the transaxle on a cable or engine hoist into an e-tank just far enough to immerse the wheel and axle shaft would work. Of course this would require you to remove it from the chassis. It is supposed to rain tomorrow, maybe I can try this with one of mine while I am trying to stay dry. If it works I will provide pictures. At any rate at least we wont be wondering if it will actually work. :dunno:

[MrTrimmier 12]

Any news???

[Rooster 191]

Another less invasive option I have heard of and been waiting for an opportunity to try..., if possible put the assembly in an E-tank, that will remove the rust holding the bolt in the hole!

Trainman's problem is that the wheel itself (with built-in hub) is rusted to the axle. It's not a hub where he can take the wheel off. then muscle off the hub with a puller. I think e-tanking is out of the question.

Take the transaxle apart, remove the axle and everything attached to it, then it will fit in an E-tank or you can use my heat and press method.

I have used this method alot. In some of the racing mowers we use the peerless transaxles and this is a common problem with them.

If I dont have a press available I have a 5/8" copper punch. After heating and quenching i stick the axle down the hole in the center of a wire spool with the wheel on the spool and I drive the axle out. the copper keeps me from damaging anything.

I use the same method for removing stuck transaxle pulleys, take the case apart, pull the pulley and input shaft out together and now you can work on it.

[Hodge71 663]

Kano Labs Kroil. I've used it to free gate valves in 40 year old steam lines and after spraying on Friday, again saturday, back to work Monday morning and pop goes the weasel. The stuff is awesome. Guaranteed to creep into spaces as small as a millionth of an inch. They make one with silicone in called Sili-Kroil.

Jeff