MRM 4 #1 Posted October 11, 2011 Have a problem with my C 160 the engine gets way to hot the exhust will glow cherry red after only few minutes and when i throttle it down it will backfire. The point gap was at .024 changed it to .020 no change then .018 and was a little batter but still hot and backfired. played with the carb ran it as lean as i could get it and then adj the needle to the get as rich as possible with no luck. pulled the head off valves and seats look good very little carbon. The engine seems to have a lot of power and will idle fine. Between the adjustments that were done i would let the engine cool off for few hours . Any ideas on what to look for? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,945 #2 Posted October 11, 2011 Possible partial blockage in the muffler? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinsRJ 721 #3 Posted October 11, 2011 Keep in mind when you adjust the points gap, you also mess with the timing. There is a way to check the timing on those K-Series. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MRM 4 #4 Posted October 11, 2011 The old muffler burnt up so i have a new Farmall Cub one on it now. The engine is clean has good air flow. How do i check the timing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motofast 0 #5 Posted October 11, 2011 check your shroud, cooling fins on flywheel. critters are finding new homes this time of year. make sure its clean, the shroud pushs or pulls air up to the cylinder head. thats a easy check. also those critters like mufflers, so check that also. other thoughts are extreme lean condition, exhaust vavle clearence has changed. timing to advanced, hope that helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #6 Posted October 11, 2011 like other have said, remove the shroud and check for any blocked fins and that the airflow is unrestricted. running lean is another possibility. is this something that has just started happening? was it running well in the past? to check the timing there should be a removable cover on the bearing plate that the flywheel shroud bolts to, just under the starter. im not sure if all the k series have that, i know the k181 and k241 do, thats all i have experience with. the timing mark is on the back of the flywheel inside the cover. the cover is round, about 1/2-3/4 in diameter. timing mark has a line with SP marked. if the points gap is now (accurately) at 018 you could take out a little more out and see what happens. ive run down as low as 10-12 and they still run fine, little harder starting though. just wondering if the right carb is on the engine as well? im still learning about these engines myself, but i would be looking more towards a cooling issue or lean condition. others with more experience may have some different solutions though......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dodge78 90 #7 Posted October 11, 2011 Set your timing like this http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/...ngineTiming.pdf A glowing muffler is usually a sign that you are running lean. If adjusting the carb does not work, you may have to clean it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,945 #8 Posted October 11, 2011 Here's a thread on the same problem from January 2010. Might be interesting reading for you. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...glowing+muffler Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #9 Posted October 11, 2011 both of those quoted links are very good reading. i just read over my reply from yesterday and realized that my reply on checking timing is a bit vague. the method mentioned in both of those threads is very accurate if the engine doesnt run. i use the meter method for a non running engine IF i cant get it running by setting the points to .020" gap method....however if you have an engine that will run for any length of time, using a timing light on that flywheel timing mark and adjusting the gap while running works the best for me. as mentioned, you need the points adjusting screw just loose enough to make movement easy by levering with a screwdriver in very small increments, but not to loose that the gap moves too much. ive found that once you get the gap where the timing mark is in the middle of the timing window, that tightening down on the lock screw will move the gap just a little so you need to hold a screwdriver against the bracket so that the adjustment doesnt move while tightening the screw. heres another thread on timing and adjusting valves if you are interested. it was on one of my k241's that had a noise problem, different issue but it talks about the valve and timing adjustment as well.. k241 has noise when hot Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinsRJ 721 #10 Posted October 11, 2011 As stated a bove, the lean condition is also a good direction to go in. It maybe time for a carb field strip and cleaning. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MRM 4 #11 Posted October 11, 2011 The problem started at the end of last winter,I only use it for snow blowing. I'll check the timing when I get home tonight thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheels0 191 #12 Posted October 11, 2011 from your description you said you had no change when adjusting the carb?. it sounds like your carb needs a good cleaning. strip it down and soak it over night in carb cleaner. then blow everything out with an air hose. that should get you back in business. good luck. ps if you let the tractor sit for a long time with gas in it you may have an issue with the gas that sat in the carb. the new gas with ethanol will eat the aluminum in the carbs if it sits too long and not run. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MaineDad 85 #13 Posted October 11, 2011 Could the governor be the problem? Is it running past 3,600 rpm's? Check the throttle stop and make sure it has not worked itself loose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MRM 4 #14 Posted October 12, 2011 Well the timing checkd out good, so cleaned out the carb again and it still ran bad. Decided to swap the carb with the one from my D-160 to the C-160 and she ran GREAT so it looks like the problem is in the carb. Thank you all for the help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites