Prepwork and Primer

[kj4kicks 151]

Here's my thoughts and methods for those crucial initial stages.

If you're recoating a solid, but faded paint job (no rust or major chips):

Lightly sand or scuff with a Scotchbrite pad to remove the "dead paint" layer. Apply a primer/sealer to make sure the new topcoat will adhere properly. Using this method, you won't need to sand the primer coat, and you'll be ready to paint in about an hour.

Parts that have been blasted, and have no pitting, etc: Use a good SELF-ETCHING primer to assure good paint adhesion. Again, no sanding is required. You're ready to paint in about an hour.

Any metal with deep rust or pitting should be sandblasted or glass bead blasted to get to 100% BARE metal. Usa a HIGH-BUILD primer, 3+ coats. Let it dry 24 hours. Sand it smooth, and you're ready to paint.

Of course, Bondo work needs to be done before applying any primer, with the exception of epoxy primer. Epoxy is awesome stuff, but very pricey. It's great for long-term projects. You can seal the metal right after it's blasted, and do the bodywork at your leisure, right over top of the epoxy. All other primers actually ABSORB moisture, and trap it next to the metal. Have you ever seen cars driving around with primer spots on them, and the rust is coming right through? That's why!

When you're ready to paint, have a dust-free area, with a fan at floor level blowing air to the outside. A little water on the floor will keep the dust down while you're walking around doing the painting. Use a resperator, or at the very least, a breathing mask.

Hope that helps!

Eldon.

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,114]

When it comes time to do the painting on the C-120, you're going to be very busy answering all my silly questions about preperation, painting, sanding and finishing it up.

[kj4kicks 151]

Or, you could send me the parts ahead of time, and pick them up when you come to the PA show

Solution #2: Allow a couple of extra days while you're here, and we'll get 'em done while you wait!

Eldon.

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,114]

As tempting as it is, and it is VERY tempting, I need to do it all here with the kids a watching. Everything is straight, rusted but straight so at least I won't need to use any filler, just a lot of elbow grease and time. I'll have to pickup a hvlp sprayer, since the one I have is old, new in box, but old style.

[joebob 45]

hold them horses the first thing to remember is to start clean washing degreasing, that is the most important part, or your refinish work will never hold up, then making sure that any bare metal is converted (metal etch)is next ,that should be for the sand blasted parts also, then scuffing and priming, if you just scuff or sand you push the oils grease wax in to the paint and that not good, a lot of automotive paint manufactures tell you that clean is better than scuffing, just my two cents .

[kj4kicks 151]

ummm, ok. A clean, grease-free surface was implied. I guess I should have been more clear on that. I suppose there are people out there that would paint over grease, but those aren't the same people that care about how it turns out.

My bad.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Are they the same people who paint the grass and leaves under the tractor, Eldon? :whistle:

[kj4kicks 151]

TT. yeah. Eldon.

[Rod(NASNUT) 1]

:whistle: What if the trator was painted with a rattlecan can you prime over that and then spray with a gun?

[linen beige 14]

What if the trator was painted with a rattlecan can you prime over that and then spray with a gun?

That still boils down to the quality of the paint that is on it. If the rattle can paint job was well done, with a quality paint, and is still showing good adhesion with no sandscratches popping through, then go for it. One thing to keep in mind though is that thick paint films have more tendency to crack, crowfoot, etc. And they "muddy up" the styling lines of the machine. They also mean that any chips that are put into them are much harder to feather, fill, and refinish. Another issue not mentioned is compatability of paints. A PO may have used a very cheap, low quality enamel that did a "good enough at the time" job, and let's face it, most people don't think of garden tractors as being worthy of a quality repaint, just spray it (and the grass and leaves under it) so they can sell it. Painting over one of these finishes with a higher volatility paint will most likely cause the old finish to wrinkle or craze. Then the old finish will loose it's adhesion and there goes the old paint with the new in tow ( my charger 9 is suffering from that very condition right now.). The key, as mentioned, is a careful and critical evaluation of the paint that is on it now.

[joebob 45]

ummm, ok. A clean, grease-free surface was implied. I guess I should have been more clear on that. I suppose there are people out there that would paint over grease, but those aren't the same people that care about how it turns out.

My bad.

not trying to be hard on you kj44kicks, just got to remember not every one understands the needs of painting just the outcome , as to the grease, it's not just grease you have to worry about , you have exhaust gases , the oils you spill accidently,( most guy guys just wipe it off with a dry wag) and the sweat in you skin ,to the tractor you just bought that the guy waxed every spring just to name a few

[PetesPonies 0]

If a tractor is painted with spray can lacquer, you are probably alright to work over it if you have to. Lacquer evapoates its thinners rather quickly and if the paint is old, you are fine. But keep in mind paint is only as good as the base to which it was applied. Now, if the paint is enamel from a spray can . . get it off. Now way will automotive quality paint go over an uncured spray can job without lifting it immediately or shortly there after. I like to cover everything with epoxy primer. It has great adhesion and will seal everything below it and it can be sprayed safely with a charcoal mask. You are always best to spray hardened paint that chemically cures. Enamel, whether acrylic or straight enamel, doesn't ever get totally hard if it isn't chemically activated. And as a safety note, the hardeners used with paint contain isocyanates. These are deadly chemicals that must not be brought into your body. Even a new filtered mask doesn't trap isos. You see people spray them all the time only wearing a charcoal mask . .not smart. However, a professional booth will have great ventilation which takes away the fumes immediately. You guys won't have that. You really need a fresh air system to work with isocyanates safely.

[linen beige 14]

You really need a fresh air system to work with isocyanates safely.

Isocyanates are more commonly known a "Super glues". They are activated by the moisture in the air, or inside your body. When inhaled, they harden onto the hairs inside you nose, then, when these are coated, they continue to coat everything in their path all the way to the bottoms of your lungs. Remember the scene in "Beverly Hills Cop" where Eddie Murphy's character used super glue fumes in an aquarium to lift a fingerprint? That was done by the fumes from the glue forming a film over the oils left from someone's skin. It will do the same thing to your insides. And it will stick to your eyeballs as well! What's more, each exposure brings you closer to an alergy of sorts, and lower and lower subsequent exposures are needed to trigger reactons.

I used isocyanate glues for years in the model building hobby, and then had a reaction to hardener in paint I was spraying on a car. Now, if I just smell the fumes from super glue, I litterally sneeze, almost nonstop, for 2 or 3 days until the film is broken up and blown out!

I'm not trying to scare you away from using hardener in your paint, it is great stuff. I still love it and wouldn't think of not using it. Kinda like having a pet lion for a watchdog: VERY effective, but you have to be REAL careful how you handle it.

Take it from someone who thought it wouldn't hurt him too bad, heed the warnings on the can, and DON'T INHALE THE FUMES!