Storing Tractors Over Winter

[boovuc 1,090]

Hi Panel!

I will be moving three of my tractors for "Winter Storage" in an Amish shed for the winter. The shed has little air flow so on late Fall, warm Winter and early Spring days the temp in the shed will be up and down with all kinds of different humidities.

In the past while they were in my garage, I used fuel stabilizer on the three that don't plow or blow snow. Not sure what to do about storing them in that shed.

The 520-H, my C-175 and the 857 will be in there for a long time.

Do I drain the tanks and run them out of gasoline?

Do I just use fuel stabilizer as I always have keeping the tanks full over winter?

I need both sides of the garage this winter. Sweet Pea will have her car on one side and I kind of like having my truck in there over winter. (And no.......she has to park in the garage)! We already "discussed this!

I'm at a loss!

Thanks In Advance!

BooVuc

Mill Hall, PA

[tunahead72 2,346]

I've kept all my equipment in a similar shed for many years now, tanks filled with gas, double the normal Stabil amount, with good results ... but I don't necessarily recommend you do the same.

Every year, I have the best intentions of draining all the fuel out of every machine and running them until they die, but I somehow just never get around to it, even though I suspect it is actually the best solution.

I do sometimes have trouble starting them again in the spring, but it's never JUST a fuel problem.

If mice can get into your shed over the winter, I would definitely recommend draining the tanks -- no need to ask me how I know, they WILL chew through fuel lines if given half a chance, and eventually drain several gallons of expensive gas onto your floor.

This year will be different....

P.S.: Be happy you HAVE a garage. :thumbs2:

[meadowfield 2,545]

given the troubles I've had with engines and stale fuel - then I'd empty them - or at least make sure the carb is empty and clean.

The modern fuels seem to evaporate over time and leave a horrible residue that clogs the jets. The float bowl gets oily and finally dries with almost a flaky crud in the bottom.

Even if everything looks ok, the fuel loses some of it's volatility/octane and starting gets harder and things don't work as well

mark

[Retired Wrencher 4,898]

:banghead: I do not. I have use this for years now I just turn off the fuel and let the bowl run out. I have never had bad luck with this product. U can find it at most stores. I hope this helps. U also get a little booklet that tells how it works. I also put Marvel in 4oz to 6 Gallons of gas for the valves. Gary B.......

[305 380]

i fill the fuel tank full and put Sta-Bil in everything. i then run them long enough to get the sta-bil/fuel mixture into the carburetor. on cars where i can't turn off the fuel i leave it. if i can turn the fuel off , like in my wheel horse or motorcycle , i do so and then run the engine until the carb runs out of fuel.

been doing that since 1973 on my Honda , i have had no fuel problems..and the carb has never been apart since then

[BOWTIE 226]

HELLO, I STORE SOME OF MY EQUIPMENT IN A UNHEATED AND SOMETIMES DAMP GARAGE. I DON'T DO ANYTHING TO THEM. I WILL START THEM ABOUT EVERY 30 DAYS ON WARMER DAY. I HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. SOME HAVE ELECTRIC START AND I CHARGE EVERY 20-30 DAYS ON A TIMER. THE RECOIL STARTS I DON'T DO ANYTHING AT ALL. TRY TO START THEM ON A 45-50 DEGREE DAY. GOOD LUCK,

BOWTIE IN OHIO

[ezeastside 93]

I was talking to an owner of a power equipment dealer the other day. He told me he is now stocking non methanol 94 octane fuel especially for this reason. He says his landscape guys buy it at the end of the year and run into their machines. Probably would help with long store type of equipment like generators etc...

He mentioned that the regular "Stable" product has a tough time combating the methanol also but said the Marine version seems to work better.

This non methanol fuel comes at a premium price as well. I think he said $11.00 per Gallon

[shorts 182]

at $11.00 gal drain the tank, run the carb dry and squirt some storage oil in the carb while cranking then roll the engine over by hand until the valves are closed.

[tbbahner 27]

Long post.

Nope, that ain't antifreeze -- it's gas. Drained this out of one of my Ferguson's that sat over the winter.

Last spring I got infected with the "green slime" in my TO30. I had drained the tank and ran the gas out of the carb for winter. Thought I was doing a good thing. I threw some gas in it in the spring and could get no fuel to the carb. Long story short, I had not taken the sediment bowl assem. off when I drained the tank. The small amount of fuel, maybe a pint., caused so much green slime that it actually plugged both pipes on the assembly. Had to run a wire through them to clear it out. Got it cleared out and had no problems.

Anyway, went to fire it up this year and lo and behold, the gas has a green tint to it in the sediment bowl. I didn't notice it at first and I actually ran it down the road with no trouble.

I'm in the process of draining and trying to clean the fuel system, installing fuel filter, etc.

My understanding is the process they're using to produce this crappy biofuel fuel we get, under certain conditions, this algae can start to grow producing red, black, or green sludge in fuel tanks. Its especially prone to happen in diesel tanks.

I've been Googling this to see if there's any additive to get rid of/prevent this crap. Found a company called FPPF that has a couple products to treat it but still investigating.

With all the WH and Ferguson's I have that just sit most of the time, this is starting to worry me a little. The 30 is the only one I've had this happen to so far.

Anyway, thought I'd share this and see if anyone has heard of it. My understanding of it might be off, but you get the drift.

If anyone has a remedy, let me know.

Tom B

[kosmikdebris 0]

Don't drain the gas, but add SEAFOAM to the tank, let it run long enough for the additive to make it to the carb and beyond. I would strongly recommend adding it before your last usage to ensure it gets worked throughout the system. SEAFOAM has drygas, fuel system cleaner, upper cylinder lube and a couple other good qualities. It's not cheap, about $10, but I sell the crap out of it and have made many a happy customer.

Your carb will want to stay wet while in storage, so I would never let it sit empty.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

Don't drain the gas, but add SEAFOAM to the tank, let it run long enough for the additive to make it to the carb and beyond. I would strongly recommend adding it before your last usage to ensure it gets worked throughout the system. SEAFOAM has drygas, fuel system cleaner, upper cylinder lube and a couple other good qualities. It's not cheap, about $10, but I sell the crap out of it and have made many a happy customer.

Your carb will want to stay wet while in storage, so I would never let it sit empty.

I will 2nd the SEAFOAM! I have used it for years with much better results than Stabil. BUT, I add it to the fuel and do not drain it. It is a petroleum product and will not harm your engine.

It cleaned up the carbs of a 33 year old motorcycle and MPG's went from 33 to 40. I wouldn't expect that mileage from a though!!

A mechanic in the agriculture industry directed me to SEAFOAM, and I now feel it is the best thing since sliced bread!

[New-To-Red with C-195 1]

Today's fuels don't respond to the fuel stabilizers in the same manner as fuels from 5 years ago. Check to see if you're getting methanol or some of the other additives in the fuel as the Stabil will not provide much benefit to them.

I try to get a quality, methano-free fuel and I use the same old Stabil that I have for 20 years. If you can turn off the fuel line and run the carb dry that is beneficial too. I do that on motorcycles, mowers, generators, weed eaters, etc. and have had good luck restarting in the spring.

Pay attention to earlier post about the mice too! They are a nightmare when utilizing outdoor storage. Set traps, poison, etc. and keep them replenished.