Diagnose this mower cut

[IthacaJeff 151]

Hi all:

Note sure if this goes in the attachment section, but here's a problem I've been trying

to figure out all season. Look at the pictures below. The cut of my 48" SD deck on

my 416 leaves a lower cut on the center blades and ridges where the center blade

overlaps the outboard blades. The blades are new Toro/WH and proper part

number (16 1/8" length). Does not matter if the grass is dry or wet, or the tractor

speed.

The easy diagnosis is that the center blade is low and short. But it really does not

seem that way when I turn the deck upside down. I have not put a level to the

blades, so I'm just eyeing it.

Any thoughts?

Jeff in Enfield NY

[C-Series14 15]

If I compare your cut to my cut, both with 48" decks, it is night and day! Mine cuts even and actually stripes the yard quite well. SO, by the looks of yours, there is definitely a problem with the center blade. Does the deck have the support plate on top? Taking it off and putting it up on a level surface and eyeballing it is probably the next thing to do...

I am sure others will have a better answer.

[SousaKerry 500]

I would take the deck off and turn it upside down take a strait edge across the blades.

Look at the spindle assemblies make sure they are all identical and that the blades are all installed the same way spacers and washers are all the same thicknesses

it may be you will have to put washers under the outer blades to lower them also. It may be that the center housing was from another model deck witch was similar but a different height.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

When parked on a level surface with the deck fully lowered, does it hang down quite a bit in the front?

If it does, you will need to tighten the nut on the rod at the gauge wheel bar at the back of the deck. wants the front of the deck to be

[IthacaJeff 151]

I guess I'll need to do more than eyeball, but TT's suggestion seems right on. The

front of the deck does angle down, certainly more than 1/4". . . this year I've set

the rear gauge wheels on their highest setting to get the highest cut, but this has

left the deck with a pretty good forward tilt. Because the middle blade is more

out front, it would result it it cutting lower.

I have also swapped out two of the spindle mandrels with my old 42" RD. I'll have

to check if they are indeed the same height.

I'll keep ya' posted.

Jeff in Enfield NY

[BOWTIE 226]

HELLO, IF THE MANDRELS ARE FROM A 1984 OR OLDER THEY ARE DIFFERENT. THE BLADES ARE THE SAME. WHAT YEAR WERE THE 42" MANDRELS FROM? THE SHAFTS ARE ABOUT A 1/2" LONGER I THINK. IF NOT SURE WHAT SIZE NUT HOLDS THE PULLEYS ON? GOOD LUCK

BOWTIE IN COLUMBUS

[JimD 3,345]

Well, call me crazy, but it looks to me like the two outboard blades are on upside down. In the pics it looks like they are beating the grass down an more chewing on it, while the center blades looks to be cutting it cleanly. :thumbs2:

[KC9KAS 4,741]

I had a problem with my mower ...I thought the deck wasn't level because one side cut lower than the other ....Turns out one blade was bent causing the high/low look .

A fellow told me years ago how to make sure mower blades were installed properly. Look at it like this....if the wrench slips off while tightening the center bolt, you will cut yourself on the sharp side of the blade! I have never been cut since he told me that, and blades have always cut properly!

[IthacaJeff 151]

The idea of the outboard blades being upside down was a good one, but alas, the

problem was the forward pitch of the deck. I took the deck off, checked the mandrels

and spindles that they were level, and they were. The deck had always had a forward

pitch, especially since I raised the rear adjusting wheels to the highest position. The

deck looked like my old 2WD Ford F150.

Took the deck off, PB Blasted the adjusting nut that positioned the trunnion, and

began fussing with different settings. Put the deck on, checked the deck levelness,

took the deck off, and adjusted the nut again. Pretty much a pain in the rear. I guess

there could be a way to adjust the nut while the deck is on the tractor? But not with

my fat arms.

So, for the first time the front of the deck floats. Before it had rested on the front

deck rollers. The front is too high right now, as I cannot even raise the deck enough

to lock it in the lift lever lock. But it mows nice!

Thanks all for the help,

Jeff in Enfield NY

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Ithaca, I dont know about your mowing problem but I do admire the cabage plants growing in yer yard I have the same ones

"not nearly as bad" but they are there just the same! If I dont see an improvement by next year Ill give it some SLUGGO for grass = AGENT ORANGE :banghead:

[jpmcleod 4]

I had the same problem with a different name brand tractor.

I learned that the rollers are not to touch the ground except to lift it over high spots or objects. I aways thought the wheels should touch the ground.

I raised the wheels so they are above ground allowing the deck to float and took the tilt out of the front. As with your results, all three mow the same now. I had the same problem with my bush hog untill a more experenced person helped me set it correct.

I'm like you, I love the look of straight and level mowing strips.

[IthacaJeff 151]

Duke:

The lawn is now one year old. After a local guy tilled the farmland me 'n the kids

raked and picked rocks for a whole summer over about 1.5 ac. By the time we were

done it was too late in the summer to seed (too hot, too dry), and so weeds kept

sprouting. Every week I'd run a drag over it to keep the weeds down (which of course

pulled up more rocks). Finally seeded in mid September and got a pretty variable

lawn.

Just today did some overseeding on the sparse spots with the expectation of good

rains this week. Next spring I plan to kill every last broadleaf weed with whatever

herbicide I can, even if I gotta do it with my little garden sprayer. Then overseed

again in the fall, then hopefully the only thing I need to do to it until I die is mow!

Jeff in Enfield NY

Rock pickin' last summer

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Thanks all for the help,

Jeff in Enfield NY

You're welcome. :thumbs2:

[tunahead72 2,346]

Jeff,

It sounds like you're on the right track, but you should be able to adjust that trunnion nut without taking the deck off every time. Make sure your tires are inflated properly (it's a minor thing, but it could make a difference). Also, the trunnion should be installed in the hole nearest to the gage wheel support shaft.

It also sounds like your deck might just be installed too high to begin with. You mentioned that you can't raise the deck high enough to lock it in the "up" position. When you pull back on the lift lever, the rubber bumpers on the mower draft bars should just touch the underside of the footrests.

Are your bumpers jamming against the footrests before you can raise the deck high enough to lock it? If so, there's a way to adjust that.

[IthacaJeff 151]

Ed:

Something is a bit out of adjustment. . .pretty sure it is the rubber bumpers that

are hitting the footrests, but I guess it could be something else. Did not have time

to check it out, but that'll be for next week.

Jeff

Enfield NY

[tunahead72 2,346]

Jeff,

When you're ready to get back to it...

Do you have operator's and parts manuals for your mower, and a parts manual for your tractor? The mower operator's manual will explain how to adjust the lift bar better than I can, and the parts manuals will help you understand how everything should fit together.

The basic idea is that there's a lift chain that connects the bellcrank to the mower lift bar, with a trunnion at the top that can be adjusted to raise or lower the deck to the right height.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Additional help (I hope).........

The eyebolt (#22) might need backed out of the trunnion (#20) a little

The IPL:

Where it actually hides:

There's a good possibility that you can unbolt the chain at the bottom and turn the eyebolt from down there. If it's "froze up" you'll have to remove it from the lift arm by pulling the hairpin clip (#21) so you can heat it, etc.

Sometimes it's easiest to remove the lower dash panel for access to that area.

[IthacaJeff 151]

Thanks gents,

I've got all the manuals and pics, but it never hurts to see it again and get focused

advice. I believe I will need to loosen the eye bolt through the trunnion to give the

lever a bit more travel. That should do it.

Jeff in Enfield