dlpaw 3 #1 Posted August 23, 2011 Hello, I am still working on this mid 60s H60 that I just fixed up and I am ready to test start it. I cleaned up the recoil by blowing it out, but did not disassemble it, since the rope pulls and retracts fine, however, when on the engine, it only engages the flywheel occasionally and when I pull super fast. The little finger that engages the aluminum cup on the fly wheel is not coming out with every pull. Is there a parts breakdown somewhere for this recoil? Anyone have any suggestions? Thank you! Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 994 #2 Posted August 23, 2011 i will be honest and tell you i have never even workrd ona tecy,but if its like any other pull start i have worked on they need to be taken apart and cleaned,deburred,and lubed with a dry type spray,i use grafitte muself on my chainsaws,quickcuts and weed eater,maybe this will help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #3 Posted August 23, 2011 Depending on how many screws hold it together, it's either a 28319 (two screws) or a 28319A (one screw) Unfortunately I do not have section C of the early parts manual, but I did find this breakdown of the 28319A online: LINK I have a few of them in the shop and can pull one apart if you need a specific picture, etc. (won't be tonight though) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlpaw 3 #4 Posted August 23, 2011 Thanks for helping, The recoil I have seems nice and freed up, but maybe sticking parts is a problem...or maybe I am missing something. Thanks for the diagram Terry, mine looks similar, although not exact. Mine has one screw in the middle, and two on the smaller circular retainer(# 12) that houses the finger (#8) that engages the inside of the aluminum cup on the flywheel (part #16). I had a thought...when I took apart the engine, there was the remains of what may have been rubber or foam inside the aluminum cup on the flywheel (#16), but it was so degraded that I dismissed it as debris. Not that I look at this thing, if there was some sort of friction between part number 16 and the retainer number 12, the finger looks like it will come out every time. Does a rubber disc inside of aluminum cup sound familiar to anyone, or am I barking up the wrong tree here?? I should try and get a picture up of my parts.... Thanks for the help! Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #5 Posted August 23, 2011 I haven't messed with the Eaton recoils in a while, but their principle of operation is similar to the older Kohler aluminum recoil. The "brake" has to have enough friction to force the pawl tightly against the cup. It does this by holding the retainer (#12) slightly at the start of pulley rotation. If the "teeth" on the inside of the cup are worn enough, the pawl may not grip correctly. Once the grip between the pawl and the cup is lost, the pawl retracts and you get what I refer to as a "dry pull". (the recoil turns but the engine doesn't) Make sure there is no lubricant between the brake and the retainer. If the pawl moves out immediately upon the first sign of movement of the pulley, I'd say that part is good. You can also try to "sharpen" the corner of the pawl (with a file) where it engages the teeth inside the cup. It might be enough to get you by until I can do some more research. :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlpaw 3 #6 Posted August 23, 2011 Thanks Terry, That's a great explanation, and you may have hit on something, I spray lubed it, albeit sparingly, so perhaps the brake is lubed now too. Makes sense, because it did work before I started tinkering with this engine! Here is some photos below. The little finger is visible in the 9 o'clock position, and only comes out if I hold the retainer ring as I am am doing in the photo, and not when I just pull the rope. I will check that brake scenario, and let you know what I come up with. Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #7 Posted August 23, 2011 Definitely could be the problem. Just so you know..... yours is the early 28319 version. Here's a picture of the 28319A: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlpaw 3 #8 Posted August 23, 2011 IT WORKS!! I started disassembling the recoil but the center phillips head screw was stuck, and when it finally popped loose it was only engaged by a few threads, so it was not screwed in far enough to tension the brake piece properly. I cleaned the threads and fully seated the screw, and now it works like a charm. Now, that rubber or foam that was in the aluminum cup was perhaps some previous owners attempt at a fix for the same problem...who knows! I am happy it is working! One more thing off the list to get my boy's tractor to the upcoming show! Sure hope it starts after all this!! Many thanks Terry and can whlvr, it is always great to talk with the experts! Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #9 Posted August 23, 2011 :banghead: I love it when a plan comes together! :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites