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NYRedNeck

Lawn Ranger

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NYRedNeck

Hey all,

Can anyone tell me about a Lawn Ranger Tractor?

The numbers given to me by the person in possesion of this tractor are

H606075117f ser.# 6315

I am guessing it is a 1967. I dont have any photos of it yet nor do I have much solid info. I was told it is not running.. motor is free, hole in the fuel tank bit overall in pretty nice shape. That is all from the current owner.

I am selling an 8N and getting some cash, a Powerking, and the wheel horse is getting thrown into the deal.

Can we tell from the numbers I posted if it is electric start or the year from those numbers I posted?

Not sure if it has a deck. What are they worth approximately? 100, 200, 300 ???

Any help\opinions or comments appreciated. As soon as I have pics I will post them.

Thanks

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sscotsman

The Lawn Ranger is a "light duty" machine, really intended to be only a riding lawn mower, not as "robust" as a true Garden Tractor: smaller wheels, smaller engine, etc..which doesnt mean its bad! :woohoo: its still a good quality machine, you just have to understand what it is..and what it isnt..

the 1967 and '68 Lawn Rangers were last of the "round hoods"..(the last round hood "true garden tractor" was the model 854 of 1964, but the round hood lived on a few more years with the "lawn tractor" lawn ranger models, up to 1968)

Around here, "rough but running" would be $50 to $100.

good condition but unrestored: $200.

nicely restored and pristine, up to $400 tops.

photos of '67 Lawn Rangers can be seen here:

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showforum=32

Scot

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TT

An H60-75117F belongs on a 1967 L-157 Lawn Ranger. (electric start)

Asking for a "blind" value won't get an accurate answer. I will tell you that the '62 to '64 models usually bring more money than the '65 to '68 models though.

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kpinnc

While I would agree with Scott that the Lawn Rangers were intended mainly for mowing and somewhat lighter duty, it would be misleading to deny them their "garden tractor" status- not that I think that's what he was trying to do. It is true that because of the lower ground clearance they can't use some of the larger Wheel Horse implements, but they are by no means a "light-duty" machine. They were simply designed to fill a niche that they were used most for: personal use on smaller properties.

The Lawn Ranger still has the same heavy-duty, cast iron Unidrive transmission, same steel frame, cast iron axle, and all-steel construction of it's big brothers. Those same components were simply used with smaller wheels and tires and a narrower front axle. This little tractor is every bit as rugged as any other Wheel Horse tractor of the same era, it's just smaller. The argument could actually be made that because these tractors were smaller, and used for lighter chores, they can actually be in far better mechanical condition than anything else left over from the same time period. It would be hard to find a tougher machine of any brand in the same small size as a Lawn Ranger.

Any doubts? Check out Nick's Load Ranger custom- and many of the other Lawn Rangers found in the picture gallery. Nothing "light duty" about any of these machines. Three-point hitches, dozers, you name it. This little tractor can work every bit as hard as any other if need be:

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=983

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1883

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=983

Kevin

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NYRedNeck

While I would agree with Scott that the Lawn Rangers were intended mainly for mowing and somewhat lighter duty, it would be misleading to deny them their "garden tractor" status- not that I think that's what he was trying to do. It is true that because of the lower ground clearance they can't use some of the larger Wheel Horse implements, but they are by no means a "light-duty" machine. They were simply designed to fill a niche that they were used most for: personal use on smaller properties.

The Lawn Ranger still has the same heavy-duty, cast iron Unidrive transmission, same steel frame, cast iron axle, and all-steel construction of it's big brothers. Those same components were simply used with smaller wheels and tires and a narrower front axle. This little tractor is every bit as rugged as any other Wheel Horse tractor of the same era, it's just smaller. The argument could actually be made that because these tractors were smaller, and used for lighter chores, they can actually be in far better mechanical condition than anything else left over from the same time period. It would be hard to find a tougher machine of any brand in the same small size as a Lawn Ranger.

Any doubts? Check out Nick's Load Ranger custom- and many of the other Lawn Rangers found in the picture gallery. Nothing "light duty" about any of these machines. Three-point hitches, dozers, you name it. This little tractor can work every bit as hard as any other if need be:

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=983

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1883

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=983

Kevin

Thanks for the extra info. The machine is supposed to be in nice shape. The current owner says it looks like it has had an easy life. I am hoping the engine checks out fine and does not have any major issues. I am not wild about the tec engines.

Only time will tell. I should have her home this weekend and will post pics.

Thanks

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kpinnc

Thanks for the extra info. The machine is supposed to be in nice shape. The current owner says it looks like it has had an easy life. I am hoping the engine checks out fine and does not have any major issues. I am not wild about the tec engines.

I'm not either, but a Kohler K181 can be made to fit nicely in it's place. Bolts right up with little to no modification. Just depends on where you put the battery, or if you even want one:

muledrive025-1.jpg

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littleredrider

I put bigger tires on my 63 for winter use, other than the motor couldn't tell it wasn't a ranger.

Also the front axle on my 63 is the same as 62 and 63 bigger tractors. I parted a 702 and 753, used one of the front axles on it along with the spindles, which is the only difference.

My 67 has a K181 on it, and it's a friggin' tank with the plow. The governour keeps pulling the throttle cable so it's not getting full RPMs, and it NEVER bogged down pushing snow. When it gets down to pavement, it picks the wheels off the ground.

Both my rangers had an easy life, and it shows. The 67 was my mower, and the front axle is as tight as when it was new I think. Just mowing the lawn or putting around doesn't really wear them out. Bigger tires, working them hard and not maintaining them and they start to show their age.

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NYRedNeck

Here's a few pics of the Lawn Ranger.

Not sure if I will keep it or sell it yet. Motor spins free. will need a wiring diagram and a manual for it.

Do I need to take the steering wheel off to take the hood off?

DSC01390.jpg

DSC01388.jpg

DSC01386.jpg

DSC01402.jpg

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kpinnc

Do I need to take the steering wheel off to take the hood off?

Yes, but they were made to be far easier to remove than a standard WH steering wheel.

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NYRedNeck

Do I need to take the steering wheel off to take the hood off?

Yes, but they were made to be far easier to remove than a standard WH steering wheel.

Do you just take the wheel itself off? Is that a roll pin or an allen type? Where can i get a manual for this thing?

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CasualObserver

Just the wheel. Roll pin. Punch it out, put a little penetrating oil or WD-40 on the hub/steering shaft, twist and lift. Yours looks a little rusty so it might take a little work, but it should come off relatively easy.

Manual can be found here --> http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/...-157_OM&IPL.pdf

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Steve in Mo

I picked up a 1966 L106 just two weeks ago here in the Mid West. Looks very close to the condition of yours. I am missing the seat and the carb but the desk is in good shape no rust through on the tractor. Paid $100 for mine.

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NYRedNeck

Just the wheel. Roll pin. Punch it out, put a little penetrating oil or WD-40 on the hub/steering shaft, twist and lift. Yours looks a little rusty so it might take a little work, but it should come off relatively easy.

Manual can be found here --> http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/...-157_OM&IPL.pdf

:thumbs2:

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