ironcitymadman 0 #1 Posted August 12, 2011 refurbing my b-100, had pto off motor found thrust in pcs #9862. looking on drawing to replace it shows a spring and stud #104842 neither of which I have. drawing shows one spring but parts list list 2 one which has been dicontinued. my questions are what's so special about this stud,(can I find a cheaper alternative, and how many springs do I need? :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOWTIE 226 #2 Posted August 12, 2011 HELLO, MINE WENT BAD YEARS AGO ON MY 75 B80. AT THE TIME THE DEALER TOLD THEY DON'T USE THAT SET UP ANYMORE ON THE NEWER MODELS. THEY PUT THE RETURN SPRING UP BY THE GAS TANK ON PTO LEVER. IT IS NOT NEEDED TO FUNCTION CORRECTLY MINE WAS BROKEN FOR YEARS. IT UP TO YOU. THE STUD SCREWS INTO CRANK. IT IS SLOTTED LIGHT A SCREW WITH A VERY TALL HEAD ON IT MAY BE 1/2" . IT HOLDS THE SPRING THAT SPINS ON THE THRUST BEARING. A POOR DESIGN AND THAT'S WHY THEY CHANGED IT TO THE LEVER SPRING. BOWTIE IN OHIO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,349 #3 Posted August 12, 2011 I made my own. I took a lug bolt (7/16 fine thread) put it in the drill press and using a file, ground the head down to 7/16" diameter. Cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw. Works just like the $30.00 Toro part. I find that the PTO stops much better with the internal spring than without. I tried to make it work by using the setup as described in the 310-8 parts list, but I could not get the PTO to stop when disengaged. That's why I made a stud and added a spring and thrust bearing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Actonhorse 26 #4 Posted August 12, 2011 Okay, I am also restoring a B80 and I believe that the stud has broken off in the end of the crank. I have been mowing with it with the return spring on the top of the PTO bracket and it seems to stop okay... Is this set up okay or am I risking doing damage? Any pictures of the 310-8 setup that you mentioned Bob would be great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,349 #5 Posted August 12, 2011 Any pictures of the 310-8 setup that you mentioned Bob would be great. Here is a thread that I started some time ago. TT responded with the 310 info. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...824&hl=pto+stud Within that response is a LINK with the parts diagram. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Actonhorse 26 #6 Posted August 12, 2011 Thanks Bob, I can't get the rest of the stud out so I am going to change it over. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #7 Posted August 12, 2011 Just for the record - I provided this information because I don't care if the PTO pulleys on my tractors "coast" when there isn't a belt on them. If I was that concerned about them free-spinning, I'd remove everything but the engine pulley and rustproof the end of the crankshaft when the PTO isn't needed. No matter what you do, one of the two bearings has to rotate. Of course I only have two tractors that are new enough to even have the PTO brake contraption. :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #8 Posted August 13, 2011 ....... I'd remove everything but the engine pulley and rustproof the end of the crankshaft when the PTO isn't needed...... Whew! I no longer feel like an idiot! On my #2 tractor (312-8) that I use only for towing and grading, I've taken the entire PTO assembly inlcuding the actuator lever off the tractor and keep the end the crankshaft clean and lightly greased. Besides, the parts from the PTO are good to have on hand for my two mowing tractors! Duff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #9 Posted August 13, 2011 No PTO is nothing new, Duff. From 1966 to at least 1968, the PTO assembly had to be purchased separately. Although it's uncommon, there were tractors that never had a PTO. Here's a picture of an early '68 Raider 12 that apparently was bought to do nothing but push (or pull?): Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
