timmybobwatt 0 #1 Posted August 5, 2011 Hi all, Very close to completing the project of fitting a simplicity mower deck onto my 227-5. Final stage is looking at the clutch. I've had a quick flick through the manual regarding setting the correct gap for clutch brake etc but it looks as though I might need to check everything over. Anyone have any experience with this? The clutch is pretty much identical to one I used to run on an old Go-Kart so I'm assuming it isnt too much hassle! Thanks in advance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #2 Posted August 5, 2011 I've been messing about with this for a couple of hours at least and can't get my head round it all. I've done as is required and engaged PTO, set space of 0.25mm between brake and clutch face but when I disengage it - there seems to still be a gap. New brake? :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #3 Posted August 5, 2011 Right the pad is totally worn through. Pretty annoyed as I have pretty much totally done the rest of the tractor and this part is now stopping me from testing the cutting deck out! I'm after part number 109346 (clutch brake bracket) Has anyone had any luck putting a new pad on at all? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #4 Posted August 5, 2011 You do realize that the clutch brake pad is there because of safety regulations and doesn't have anything to do with the engagement or operation of the actual PTO clutch, don't you? Even when they are adjusted properly, they usually only emit an odor of burning brake lining when the PTO is disengaged after powering an attachment. You can rivet a new piece of lining on there later......... give that deck a test run. :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #5 Posted August 5, 2011 You do realize that the clutch brake pad is there because of safety regulations and doesn't have anything to do with the engagement or operation of the actual PTO clutch, don't you? That, I did not. Care to elaborate? I was under the impression that the PTO clutch was centrifugal and as such required the brake to be 'let-off' in order for the deck to do it's job. So am I right in thinking that it's quite literally a brake? The PTO is disengaged and the brake underneath it just stops the spinning until it stops? I must of gotten a little confused as the clutch seems to spin when the PTO is engaged and not. This is however when there is no load on it. ...by the way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #6 Posted August 5, 2011 The PTO clutch consists of the tapered "female" part which is part of the engine pulley, and the "matching" lined (with friction material) pulley that is forced upward into the taper of the lower portion of the engine pulley by the lever with the brake pad. My opinion: The brake pad is merely a compliance item that required installation because of sue-happy consumers who weren't intelligent enough to keep their appendages away from revolving mower blades and snowthrower augers. When adjusted properly, it will barely hold the pulley. Add the inertia of spinning mower blades or a snowthrower auger and they are totally worthless. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #7 Posted August 5, 2011 Ah, so health and safety is to blame! So this being said, when everything is rigged up there should be no movement of the blade when I start up the 227-5? Probably best not to start her up on the driveway... :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #8 Posted August 5, 2011 In the interest of covering my own behind: I am not telling you to operate your machine with a non-functioning safety device. I am just letting you know that the PTO clutch will function without the brake pad. :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #9 Posted August 5, 2011 when everything is rigged up there should be no movement of the blade when I start up the 227-5? That is correct. The PTO should not turn until you engage the lever. :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #10 Posted August 5, 2011 Ah. It's turning when I start her up... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #11 Posted August 6, 2011 Is everything adjusted properly? Is there a return spring on the rod from the engagement lever? It's not stuck together, is it? That type of PTO clutch had a tendency to rust (I guess) and not release. Have you tried to separate the two pulleys? Similar unit: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #12 Posted August 7, 2011 Awesome - thanks so much for your assistance so far. I'll try and have the clutch in half today and will report back! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #13 Posted August 7, 2011 A bit of A lot of A rest <_< A bit more Then eventually, a fully functioning PTO clutch. Came apart quite easily the end with the aid of a hammer. Whiz round with the minature wire brush, blast out with the compressor. Sorted. :ROTF: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #14 Posted August 7, 2011 That's GREAT news! Where should I send the bill? :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #15 Posted August 7, 2011 Where should I send the bill? Well send me as much bank information over as possible. I'll need your pin number etc just so I can check that it went in OK. Just need to sort the belt out now and I'll give it a test mow over the next couple of days. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #16 Posted August 7, 2011 On the topic of quite possible easy things to sort - the brake pedal sticks down. It'll hold/stop the tractor fine but I would imagine lifting the brake off during transit would require some insane dexterity/sitting backward on the hood. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #17 Posted August 7, 2011 The very first thing I'd check would be the pedal itself. Unhook the rod from the pedal and make sure the pedal moves freely at the pivot. If it doesn't, remove, clean, lubricate, and reinstall. There should also be a return spring on or near the brake caliper lever at the transaxle. Click here and look for item #45. I am not 100% certain on your particular machine, but on similar models that spring attached between the brake caliper lever and a hole at the right rear corner of the "frame". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #18 Posted August 8, 2011 To say I'm annoyed is an understatement. It was indeed the pedal that was (really badly) rusted on to the bar underneath. So much so that it required striping everything of getting the two in a vice. The pedal is now in two pieces and being cast, I have spent the last three hours trying to weld it with no luck. So for the forseeable future, or until someone happens so have a brake pedal that will fit a 227-5 the whole project is on hold. Not.A.Happy.Chappy FYI - Toro Consumer 108602 Pedal-Brake is what I'm after! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #19 Posted August 8, 2011 Pedal on eBay It's not mine, but the seller is a member here. :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #20 Posted August 9, 2011 Pedal on eBay It's not mine, but the seller is a member here. Thanks. I've gotten in touch with him to see what he can do. Unfortunately, I'm in England so it might not be that cost beneficial... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #21 Posted August 9, 2011 to weld cast iron you need to preheat the parts , weld then with a nickle alloy rod for cast and then cool it slowly, I like to build a charcoal fire to preheat the parts and then put the weldment back into the hot coals and let the fire burnout on its own to cool the parts slowly to minimize cracking fron unequal thermal stress Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmybobwatt 0 #22 Posted August 9, 2011 No luck. $50 is a bit too steep for me to fork out for the pedal! So I'm still in need. Re:The welding advice - Thanks very much but it's because the crack was in such an awkward place! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,546 #23 Posted August 9, 2011 Stevebo had one of those pedals back in the spring, NOS and a little cheaper than the one that was on eBay. You might PM him to see if it's still available, or if he knows where you might find one used: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26246 You are planning to put an ad here in the Classifieds, right? And in the Euro Classifieds as well? Does anybody else know if other pedals would work on this tractor? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites