16hp Crankshafts

[lobo 22]

:D Please! As some may know, I've been looking for a crankshaft for my C161, as the cost of a new one is quite pricey I tried to get around it. I purchased a different motor, the spec # is 71179, where mine is 71246, but the crankshaft, according to Parts Tree, should be the same. Now the question, since my crankshaft has a flywheel retaining nut and the new one has a bolt, are they the same? Is there two different styles of the same crank?

Second: I am trying to decide whether to put the other motor on, was told that it ran good when tested, would have to swap the oil pans, or take the crank out of it and put it in mine? Your thoughts.

Also, in Parts Tree, they tell a person what the motor goes in, Tractor, Generator, Chipper, etc. Well the new one just has the idle speed and top end speed, what's that about?

Any and all input will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Steve

Mid-east, IA

[lobo 22]

Is it me? Have I been shut out of the loop for some reason? Maybe you guys aren't as smart as I thought?

Funny how nobody has any opinions or thoughts on this?

Thanks alot!

[buckrancher 2,694]

Now the question, since my crankshaft has a flywheel retaining nut and the new one has a bolt, are they the same? Is there two different styles of the same crank?

kohler makes many styles of crankshafts to meet a manufacture's needs

without checking the two cranks side by side for dia.,taper's, lenght's.etc.

if the differance is just the bolt vs nut for the flywheel I would say that if the taper is the same it should work

Brian

[gd.pudge 2]

hey hang on someone smarter than i will answer you in time im sure. but il give it a shot.some crankshafts on generator and other could have a tapered crankshaft or different than tractor engines but thats obvious to see.as for changeing the crankshaft to the other motor with different oil pan is the connecting rod cap may interfere with a shallower oil pan due to a splasher length id say if the crank is similar length and diamenter on the pto side id just switch engines

[Anglo Traction 761]

I'm not as experienced as some here, but I offer you a few explanations -

The Crankshaft part number is the same (on Partstree) for each of your engines, therefore both should interchange.

The fact that one has a bolt and the other retainer is a nut should be irrelevent for your purposes.

You don't say if the engine you've purchased is a Pull Start or Starter Motor?.

It may be that Kohler tended to use a Bolt on the Crank to facilitate the easier fitting of the Spool on the Crank for the Pull Start tackle for that engine application?.

The fact that there is no designation on Partstree for the engine , other than Min-Max speed may be due to them making a batch of engines to that Spec for Random purchase by companies to adapt for their needs.

The designated engines listed i.e. Tractor or Generator were probably manufactured to order by Contracts? (my assumption).

If you look to put the newly purchased engine in your Tractor, it would probably need the longer Dipstick/Tube as well.

The Oil Pans do not look the same and the Part numbers are different, so no doubt you'll be doing a visual comparison.

Comparing depth of the Pans (gasket surface to inside bottom) will assure you of Rod End clearances and correct engine/Crank alignment height for your PTO/Belt ( if they will interchange) .

[shorts 182]

I would imagine that the forgings are all the same for the big block K and M series engines as all of the internal parts are interchangeable by part number except for the piston diameters/bore size. the spec numberprobably determines what specific options were assembled to fit the engine to its intended end use, things like the dimension of the PTO end of the crankshaft - taper, straight, diameter, length, keyway, etc most of these dimensions are to an industry standard so that some degree of interchange is available. the flywheel end of the crank would have specific options such as ignition type, mag,battery,electronic, charging system size and type, internal or external belt drive, starting options rope,recoil,electric belt driven starter/gen or flywheel gear drive as well as auxilliary PTO drive options that might affect the flywheel bolt vs nut issue. Idle and governor set speeds would be factory set @ specific speeds for the end use but are externally adjustable with the service manual to tell you what linkage adjustments to make.

If the PTO end of the crank is the same and the flywheel end options fit your application the cranks should interchange, just mic the rod journal to make sure tha it is compatable with the connecting rod that you are going to use, you don't want to put a std rod on a .010 under crank or vice versa.

[lobo 22]

:woohoo: I am really grateful for the input, sorry that I implied you guys aren't that smart. I had thought I had it figured out but then the difference in the crankshafts and looking for a month had me doubting myself. I know I'm not the sharpest crayon in the box, and being on a fixed income, I would like to get it done right the first time.

A special thank you to Brian, over in the UK, for taking the time to look up the #'s and all. The new engine is a electric start also but had a crankshaft extension on it, suppose to have come off a Simpilcity tractor. Bought it for the crank, for less than I could get a new one, plus I get another starter, coil, carb...It is the complete engine.

I have heard that it is best to replace the rod whenever you rebuild one, is there any truth to that or can I use the old one? Think I will take the crank out and put it in mine, already had the block honed, valve job done, did that right off, didn't think finding a crank would be so hard.

Again, thank you all very much.

Steve

[can whlvr 994]

it seems that from what i can gather that alot of kohler failures are the rod,after enough rotations after years they get weak and break,thats what let go in my 10hp kohler,so yes replace the rod if you can afford it

[lobo 22]

Thanks Don, the machine shop mentioned it, didn't know if it was just a try to sell more parts.... I've got a bit of a trust issue.

[shorts 182]

it seems like other than wearing out the most common catastrophic failure in the kohler engines is the connecting rod. with thar being said and knowing that a rod failure can cause the block to be damaged beyond repair a new rod is cheap insurance to protect your investment. make sure to install the rod properly.