50" Grader Blade Lift Link

[mr.pipes 4]

Thought I would make a post with the lift link dimensions for those looking to make their own.

3/8" thick

12" long

1-1/2" wide

3/8" Dia. pins are 1/2" long

3/4" from center of pins to end of link (slightly less)

10-11/16" center to center on pins

1-1/2" offset

offset starts 2-3/4" from end

[tarcoleo 119]

hey fellahs, help me out. the lift link for a 50" mid-mount grader is said in this thread to be way bigger than the link on my 50" unit. mine is only 4", pin to pin and is

original.

Tom in RI :woohoo:

[SAM58 30]

hey fellahs, help me out. the lift link for a 50" mid-mount grader is said in this thread to be way bigger than the link on my 50" unit. mine is only 4", pin to pin and is

original.

Tom in RI

I believe the 4" link is just for lifting the blade, when you lower it the blade will just float, the 12" link is so you can put down pressure on the blade...

Works with Hydro units or manual lifts.

Someone correct me if I am wrong. :ROTF:

[tarcoleo 119]

sam-

more downward pressure on the grader blade would be desirable. but if the pressure is applied by the tractor, the effect is to reduce traction. there is a UTube video I have seen where weights were added to the blade. and i suppose if the tractor had wheel weights and chains, traction would not be badly affected by downward pressure from the tractor. maybe i'm dense, but on my machine I can't see how a much longer link would allow the blade to be raised for transport.

tom in RI :woohoo:

[SAM58 30]

It is handy if you are pushing loose material, dirt, gravel, but you are right if you are trying to cut hard ground.

The longer link attaches to a differnt point on the lift.

You still have the same travel as the 4" link, the blade will not float.

4" pins to the lifting bar, the 12" pins to the lift up where the chain is connected.

[WheelHorseSteve 56]

So this is the exact lift link I have for my 50" grader blade. I ended up modifying it so that at full height it brings the blade close to the running boards (giving me great clearance) and at full "down" position is about 1/2" below grade... giving me some down-pressure at the expense of some traction. This blade is the truly the "cat's meow" with this setup... my only challenge is keeping traction when I start pushing/grading serious amounts of gravel.

Sure beats fixing the driveway with a rake! :woohoo:

[SAM58 30]

I only have a 40" - 42" and it is a great little attachment.

I plan on using it on my 520H.

[71_Bronco 1,072]

Thanks so much Mr Pipes.

I will probably make one of the 4" links as well for hahas. I am mostly going to be using it on loose gravel on my driveway, so I don't think down pressure will be needed, although the ability to swap the link at a moments notice will be a very nice option if I do need it.

This thread, as well as the one for the 40" grader link, should be tacked in case anybody else needs the info down the road.

Thanks again!

[tarcoleo 119]

Sam-

Appreciated the info on attachment methods for my 50" grader. BTW, I found that

additional downward pressure on the blade is conveniently applied with feet, at least

in the straight (not angled) blade position.

Tom in RI

:woohoo:

[Forest Road 594]

Thanks so much Mr Pipes.

I will probably make one of the 4" links as well for hahas. I am mostly going to be using it on loose gravel on my driveway, so I don't think down pressure will be needed, although the ability to swap the link at a moments notice will be a very nice option if I do need it.

This thread, as well as the one for the 40" grader link, should be tacked in case anybody else needs the info down the road.

Thanks again!

And that's why you ned a second tractor

I leave the lift arm off of my 8 speed and use that machine for all of my grading I like being able to set the height of the blade with dial. You don't have that option with hydro units.

[71_Bronco 1,072]

Just came across some 3/8" x 2 1/2" steel in the tool room this morning, looks like I will be staying late to work on some links :woohoo: