414-8

[smitty316 24]

I just picked up a nice 414-8, but it's electrical system is a mess. A previous owner installed a starter button to jump across the solenoid because the ignition wont crank the engine. The lights, volt meter, hour meter and starter wont work from the ignition. I tested the lights by hooking them to the battery. They work. A hungry mouse has been hard at work on a lot of the wires too.

I have the wiring diagram an things seemed hooked up correctly so far other than the starter button. I'm leaning towards the ignition switch as the culprit. Is there a way to test that before I buy a new one? Also, I'd be interested in a used one if anyone has one out there they know is good.

Thanks,

Smitty

[MikesRJ 558]

Are you SURE you have it wired correctly?

If you have a Volt-Ohn Meter (aka VOM) you can test it as follow:

1) Start Switch in OFF position:All terminals should be OPEN to one another.

2) Start Switch in the RUN position: terminals B, R, I, and A should be shorted to one another (i.e. B to R, R to I, I to A, etc). All should be open to the switch case.

3) Start Switch in the START position: B R, I, and S should be short to one another. All open to the switch case.

If all the above are good, consider the switch good.

[smitty316 24]

Thanks, I've been tracking it down wire by wire. Everything seems correct until I get to the red wire from the ignition switch. It should run to the solenoid, but it's left disconnected. I guess because they are getting current directly from the battery by way of the starter button.

The thing about the switch is that it only seems to have two positions. on and off. Unless I'm just not feeling the three positions. That makes me feel like maybe it's broke. I'm thinking I should be able to feel a difference between run and start, but I can't.

Maybe some previous owner (I don't know much about it's background) added the starter button because the ignition was broken. There was also a bunch of mouse damage to the other wires, but I don't think they were tampered with too much by a human. I repaired all of those with tape for now. The only tinkering seems to be limited to the red that goes from the switch to the solenoid and the seat switch was unplugged for some reason. I know it won't start with the key with the seat switch pulled out, so I cleaned it and plugged it back in.

I don't have a volt meter, but I can get one from work. It will be next week before I can do that though.

Thanks for your help,

Smitty

[MikesRJ 558]

Not sure you're really going to "feel" anything other than that the start position is spring loaded to return to the run position when released.

Here's a 414-8 manual if you don't already have one. There are several wiring diagrams, make sure you're looking at the one for 414-8.

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/...OM_810437R1.pdf

[Save Old Iron 1,568]

Smitty,

You could make another test confirming if the starter relay is functional. This would not require a meter.

Take a jumper wire connected from the the battery positive terminal and connect the other end directly to the third smaller terminal on the starter relay.

This will simulate the action of the "S" function of the ignition switch.

If you jumper the terminal and the engine turns over , the starter relay would appear to be functional. If not, you now have a few extra days to order out a relay - without having to wait for a multimeter. But at $10 - $20 for a decent meter, there really is no excuse to be without one, especially with the possible rewire job you have ahead of you.

[MikesRJ 558]

I was wondering where you were hiding Chester!

@Smitty

These may also come in handy:

1958-1984

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/...SM_810291R2.pdf

1985-2001

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/...er/trpdemys.pdf

[smitty316 24]

Thanks,

That's pretty much what the previous owner did with the starter button. The tractor does start using that. I just want to get rid of the starter button and get it back to original condition and get the lights and volt meter working again.

Thanks again, Smitty

[Save Old Iron 1,568]

then you are only about $20 away from your wishes coming true

if your system is coil based

if your magneto based then

[MikesRJ 558]

Smitty, on which 414-8 model number (year perhaps) machine are you working?

[smitty316 24]

Save Old Iron,

That could be true. The question is, why didn't the previous owner just replace the ignition instead of going to all the trouble of adding the starter button.

My strategy is to get everything back to origional and then try to diagnose what the origional problem was if any. My gut feeling is that there is something waiting to be discovered. Unfortunately I can't work on it for the next 4 days, but that gives me time to ponder the situation. My first test is to get it running with the starter button and then touch the "B" wire from the switch to the solenoid (where it's supposed to be connected) and see if the lights and volt meter will come on. How's that sound?

Mike RJ,

I'm not at home and I don't have all the numbers in my head, but I do remember it's a M14. I believe it's an 1989. I'm pretty sure the switch is a 103991 and it does have a coil.

Thanks guys!! Smitty

[MikesRJ 558]

Then I suspect you have one of these:

31-14K804 414-8 8-Speed M14S-601540

If so then the part number you need to get is 111215 or 111216

About 14-30 dollars

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&hl=en&t...iw=1920&bih=856

[can whlvr 994]

if its a magnum it wont have a coil,at least my 414,s dont,

[smitty316 24]

I recognize that number 31-14K804 and now that you mention it I guess it doesn't have a coil.

Thanks for the link for the switch,

Smitty