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kver3146

C-125 PTO Brake

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kver3146

Long time reader first time poster here. Last night the wife was mowing the grass with our C-125 and what appears to be a small round brake pad shatter and fall down on the mower deck. Best I can tell it came from the PTO. What exactly is the purpose of the brake pad and where could I get the replacement part?

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WH854

Long time reader first time poster here. Last night the wife was mowing the grass with our C-125 and what appears to be a small round brake pad shatter and fall down on the mower deck. Best I can tell it came from the PTO. What exactly is the purpose of the brake pad and where could I get the replacement part?

:D P/N 104730 Your local Toro dealer :woohoo:

Chas

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CasualObserver

What exactly is the purpose of the brake pad?

PTO Brake pad goes on the inside of a bracket around the PTO bell. Its purpose is to stop the bell from spinning (and inevitably whatever attachment you were running, i.e. mower deck blades or snow thrower auger) when you disengage the PTO.

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tunahead72

A dumb question from somebody who should know the answer, maybe we should all know this:

I took the whole PTO brake assembly off my 310-8 years ago (don't remember why exactly), is there any harm in doing that? It does take a little longer for the mower to slow to a stop, but I'm a patient man, usually. Am I causing any problems that I don't know about yet? :woohoo:

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rmaynard

The major problem that I see is that if you need to stop the blades in a hurry, you can't with the brake missing.

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kver3146

Thanks so much for the welcome! So I thought that If I ran the mower without the brake pad the only issue would be that the blades did not stop spinning as quickly but it seems like the blades will not cut at full power now. In doing further research and taking the PTO off last night I have determined the issue to be the clutch plate. Now I am curious as to whether the pad attached to the clutch plate is the issue with the blades not spinning at full power. Any suggestions?

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WH854

Thanks so much for the welcome! So I thought that If I ran the mower without the brake pad the only issue would be that the blades did not stop spinning as quickly but it seems like the blades will not cut at full power now. In doing further research and taking the PTO off last night I have determined the issue to be the clutch plate. Now I am curious as to whether the pad attached to the clutch plate is the issue with the blades not spinning at full power. Any suggestions?

You can adjust the pressure on the clutch plate with the threaded trunnion on the engagement arm by turning it clock wise one turn at a time, until your blades turn without bogging down.

Chas

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kver3146

You can adjust the pressure on the clutch plate with the threaded trunnion on the engagement arm by turning it clock wise one turn at a time, until your blades turn without bogging down.

I thought that I could but was unsure since the pad was missing on the clutch plate, the shattered pad I spoke of in the first post. Without the pad there I would think I might damage something, say the back of the PTO bell for instance.

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SNYFIX

What exactly is the purpose of the brake pad?

PTO Brake pad goes on the inside of a bracket around the PTO bell. Its purpose is to stop the bell from spinning (and inevitably whatever attachment you were running, i.e. mower deck blades or snow thrower auger) when you disengage the PTO.

Supposed to stop the attachment in less then so many seconds. I think .012 is the official factory clearance. Always had to use a .015/.016 feeler guage tho because as the brake tightens down it invaribly moves in as per the design. This is done with the PTO 'engaged' with the motor OFF BTW. Too tight and the friction between the cone/disc will heat that PTO up in a hurry and too loose/worn out it's ineffective.

Better get a SPARE now BTW !!!

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SNYFIX

What exactly is the purpose of the brake pad?

PTO Brake pad goes on the inside of a bracket around the PTO bell. Its purpose is to stop the bell from spinning (and inevitably whatever attachment you were running, i.e. mower deck blades or snow thrower auger) when you disengage the PTO.

Supposed to stop the attachment in less then so many seconds. I think .012 is the official factory clearance. Always had to use a .015/.016 feeler guage tho because as the brake tightens down it invaribly moves in as per the design. This is done with the PTO 'engaged' with the motor OFF BTW. Too tight and the friction between the cone/disc will heat that PTO up in a hurry and too loose/worn out it's ineffective.

Better get a SPARE now BTW !!!

Also a very good idea is to hand grease the inner needle bearing with quality wheel bearing grease. Too much and it will fling out soaking the clutch disc with grease especially if the brake is adjusted to tight and gets hot.

Good idea BTW to get a extra clutch disc. $75.00 from Toro.com NOW!!!

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can whlvr

the answer to tunas question about not running the brake is when the pin falls out of the pto and they do from time to time then theres nothing holding the pto on and it could fly off and hurt someone or something,so even if theres no pad left i would leave it on for safty,just back it off the pto so it doest groove the bell

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tunahead72

the answer to tunas question about not running the brake is when the pin falls out of the pto and they do from time to time then theres nothing holding the pto on and it could fly off and hurt someone or something,so even if theres no pad left i would leave it on for safty,just back it off the pto so it doest groove the bell

Yikes! I hadn't thought of that, and that sucker's heavy too!

I guess I should put mine back, but got to find it first.... <_<

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kver3146

Good idea BTW to get a extra clutch disc. $75.00 from Toro.com NOW!!!

On order and should receive early next week.

Thanks for all the advice from everyone!

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