75 B100 automatic

[proshop 0]

New to sight and was wondering if any one knows where i can find a kit for the rear end for a 75 wheelhorse B100 automatic?

I am going to rebuild the machine for my father who bought the thing new.

The dealer said it would cost too much to fix and my dad broke down in tears at 85 years old.

I had no idea that horse ment so much to him, so here i go and get the tractor and am going to rebuild it for him.

I hope its not more than i can chew!

Thanks for any replyes. :whistle:

[wh500special 2,277]

It's amazing at how attached we can become to these silly things, isn't it?

I'm not sure what problems you're having with the rear end, but most likely you mean the hydro no longer has enough power to move the tractor very well. Or, maybe it does when cold but it loses power as it heats up. Or maybe it just leaks oil all over the place.

You could just have a slipping belt, a sheared keyway, or a stuck relief valve. All of which are easy fixes.

If the problem is the second one I mentioned (gets worse when hot), more than likely the precision surfaces inside the hydrostatic pump and/or motor are worn out. this is a common occurance in these things (they are 30 years old) and is usually due to dirt finding its way into the transaxle fluid. While there IS a filter on these systems, it actually only filters the oil returning to the transaxle and does nothing to protect the pump from ingesting debris from the bottom of the rear end. For whatever reason, a "window screen" strainer that was glued in place on the intake served that purpose. These can fall off or eventually just let stuff into the system due to the rather coarse mesh size.

Rather than bore you with all the details of what you can do yourself to address this potential ailment, I will wait and make sure these are indeed the symptoms you're talking about. If you're lucky, all it will take to get the transaxle going again will be a complete disassembly and a little polishing on the valve plates, slippers, and piston blocks. If you're not so lucky, you'd be best off shopping for a used transaxle assembly for the tractor. There really aren't any kits available for this (although there certainly would be a market out there for the machinists in the group) and most of the internals or no longer available.

When you get the opportunity, let us know what specific problems the tractor is having before I scare you anymore. Nothing on these tractors is really that complicated, but some projects do require a lot more effort and money than others.

here's to hoping you have a broken woodruff key,

Steve

[proshop 0]

It is leaking fluid from the berring at the left rear axil

They said that they could move the shaft in and out and that it might be a keeper or snap ring sheared off that holds it in place.?

I am going to get it from the shop this afternoon and start terring it dowm

I dont have any shop manuals or any thing to tell me what to look for. I just hope that good common sence is on my side.

We have a place here that is called dixie berring and they are good about finding berrings that are no longer in the catalogs. I hope that this is still true.

Also I am not sure what fluid to put back in the hydrolics or transaxel, you know when you lift the seat up to check the oil on the dip stick.

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,882]

Proshop so the only thing with the axle is the leak and the shaft movement? That's very good news and should be a much easier fix. I have never done it so I will refrain from discussing it, but I can give one bit of advise.

Make sure that your area is SUPER CLEAN. Fully clean the parts before and during dissassembly and be sure that you do not introduce ANY dirt into the system as it will make an easy repair very expensive a bit later on.

The transaxle should take 10W30 / 10W40 motor oil. Hopefully others will pop in with more detailed help.

Again welcome to RedSquare

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Oh this does sound like an easy one!

I had exactly the same problem. Mine got a little more serious than yours but fixable.

On a turn at the far end of our property the left rear tire and axle decided to leave the tractor! I lost the C or E clip keeper and the axle slid right out. My weight pressing down on the tractor (riding it) broke the boss out of the one side of the axle assembly (bull gear) and the bearing and seal on that side of the axle were destroyed. Tell your dad I nearly cried too when I thought about 8 1/2 acres of growing grass and not much of a way to mow it!

I found a complete axle assembly from a wheel horse guy up in Dowagiac Michigan. (Mine takes the 1-1/8" axles). The bearings and seals are still available at my Toro dealer. Very salty in price!

However the Toro dealer will not "recognize" the term "axle assembly". They will only recognize the individual parts. Some might be available and some might not. They should have a new gasket for the transmission.

You can go to the Toro Parts Viewer (Toro website) and see a complete assembly drawing. Just plug in the right model number of your tractor. It can be a pain to use if your new to it. I found that for some assembly drawings to be found.....they do not use the "whole" model number. (usually the prefex number is left out) The keeper (C or E snap ring, if that is the problem) is located inside the bull gear(essencially the differencial). Be careful when dissassembly of the bull gear. It also has gears inside of it. I find it helpful to take digital pictures of dissassemblies when I am unsure of re-assembly. Just remove the bolts on the bull gear. If the snap ring came off you will know it, because the axle will just pull out of the bull gear. (again "if" that is the problem)

And if your dad does not mind? It is possible to bolt on an 8 speed transaxle. They are more common. I am not sure of any problems with swapping one for the other, but maybe others here have that particular experience.

Not sure why the shop said it was too expensive to fix. If it is just a bearing seal and keeper....it is an easy fix. Messy.....but easy.

Let me know if I can help further. Helping the older generation is pure pleasure! I can send you a picture of the axle assembly if you want it.

Pictures sent!

Good luck!

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,610]

Proshop,

I don't have anything new to add, but I wanted to :whistle:

[kpinnc 14,652]

Proshop,

Since it does have a leak- Is the fluid low in the case? These things will NOT work if they are low in fluid. I have a Charger 10 that seemed to just suck, and then I found that the fluid was quite low. Filled her up, and she works like a champ! Mine also leaked from the left axle seal...

Since it is a Sundstrand, there are some places around that will repair the pump if needed. I have no idea what they charge, but they can repair if if neccesary. I wanna say Jimstractors.com or something like that does those types of repair.

Also, there are a couple folks on here who have been inside the Sundstrands and made some repairs. Unlike the Eaton pumps, the Sundstrands are serviceable. The WH manual that covers these pumps is about 70 pages long, and quite detailed. I can e-mail you a copy of the manual if you want. Just PM me with an e-mail address. I would definately advise against going into the tranny without first looking over the manual...

Tell your dad not to worry, it can be fixed. May take a little time, and hopefully not too much money, but it usually can be done. Parts are sometimes hard to find, but they are out there...

Good luck!

Kevin

[wh500special 2,277]

It is leaking fluid from the berring at the left rear axil

Whew! Good news.

I offer only two piece of advice on this problem - which are repeats of what you've heard already:

1. You NEED the manuals.

2. Keep it clean.

While you have the case split open be sure to throughly clean everything out that may have accumulated over the last 30 years. If the pump is still good this exercise in opening things up will actually be insurance against future problems.

best of luck!

Steve