48" deck problems

[LuckyJohn 0]

I figured this has been brought up before but I can't find it. My deck is a 48" SD and it is on my 416H. I didn't notice it earlier this spring, but I do know that I had hit a rock with it a few weeks ago and it started seeing the strip. I took the blades off this morning and that didn't look all beat up, maybe a few dings on the cutting edges but nothing to major. I touched them up and cleaned all of the grass from the bottom of the deck and reinstalled and tried it out and still doing the same thing. The spindles seemed fine with no slop. What am I missing? The blades are Gator blades the PO had but on and the number on them is 90-944. Could the blades be wrong, I wouldn't think so since I never noticed it before. Should I just order all new spindles or are the bearings in them replaceable, were does one order new ones at?

Happy 4th to everybody and thanks for the help in advance.

John

[SAM58 30]

I picked up a 1992 48" SD deck a few months ago for $100.00 and it did the same thing...

My problem was that the PO had went to Lowe's and bought a set of blades as close as he could find a they were 3/4" too short. The shaft hole is 3/4" , but the blades he put on it had 7/8" holes. I am suprised they works as well as they did.

When sharp they cut good, but vibrated, ordered new OEM blades and it fixed the problem.

The spindles are repairable, with new bearings, and some decks have seals in them.

Toro Parts & Manuals

RCPW Wheel Horse Parts

I am sure others on this site have many more sources...

[jdog_kustoms 82]

your blades should measure 16 1/8 inch from end to end of 1 blade make shure they are that size and also makwe shure when you hit the rock it didnt bend the deck and make the spindle not straight any more

[phattdaddy1963 0]

I am going thru a similar problem now.

I hit a small stump, it bent the blade and the mower deck where the spindle is mounted. That side of the mower cut uneven and did leave a small strip.

Check the spindle allignment as JDog Kustoms suggested and your blade. You may have to mallotize your deck and get a new blade...get original blades they have aways worked best on my 520.

Kenny

Virginia

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

The 48" deck has the reinforcement plate on the top of the shell and would have to take a nasty hit to throw the spindle alignment out bad enough to cause streaking.

Since you didn't specify exactly where the streak is, I can only guess that it's 1/3 of the way in from either end of the edge of the deck.

90-944 Gator blades are listed as measuring 16 1/16" in length, which is barely enough to have adequate overlap.

Remove the deck and use a carpenter's square to determine the actual overlap.

Turn all three blades "sideways" and use the square to see how much overlap there is at the ends of the blades. Hopefully it will be the same between both sides.

(not the best picture or representation, but you'll get the idea)

See what you come up with, and let us know the results. :woohoo:

[LuckyJohn 0]

The 48" deck has the reinforcement plate on the top of the shell and would have to take a nasty hit to throw the spindle alignment out bad enough to cause streaking.

Since you didn't specify exactly where the streak is, I can only guess that it's 1/3 of the way in from either end of the edge of the deck.

90-944 Gator blades are listed as measuring 16 1/16" in length, which is barely enough to have adequate overlap.

Remove the deck and use a carpenter's square to determine the actual overlap.

Turn all three blades "sideways" and use the square to see how much overlap there is at the ends of the blades. Hopefully it will be the same between both sides.

(not the best picture or representation, but you'll get the idea)

See what you come up with, and let us know the results.

TT

You are correct on the location of the strips, in the pic were you have highlighted the green stripes is were the grass is not getting cut. I guess I will order the factory blades and try it out. Thanks for the help.

[LuckyJohn 0]

I picked up a 1992 48" SD deck a few months ago for $100.00 and it did the same thing...

My problem was that the PO had went to Lowe's and bought a set of blades as close as he could find a they were 3/4" too short. The shaft hole is 3/4" , but the blades he put on it had 7/8" holes. I am suprised they works as well as they did.

When sharp they cut good, but vibrated, ordered new OEM blades and it fixed the problem.

The spindles are repairable, with new bearings, and some decks have seals in them.

Toro Parts & Manuals

RCPW Wheel Horse Parts

I am sure others on this site have many more sources...

Ok, I went to this site that SAM had posted and it has asked me for my model number and serial number; well here is my problem the PO had the metal sandblasted and the tag is gone. How do I look parts up without having this information?

Thanks

John

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

Use 15-48SC02 as the model number. (enter "none" if a serial number is required)

That should get you close, but it's not guaranteed to be the exact model number of the deck you are working with.

Hint: Toro/WH #106637 would be the blades you need to replace the 90-944 Gator blades.

[LuckyJohn 0]

Use 15-48SC02 as the model number. (enter "none" if a serial number is required)

That should get you close, but it's not guaranteed to be the exact model number of the deck you are working with.

Hint: Toro/WH #106637 would be the blades you need to replace the 90-944 Gator blades.

TT

I use the part number you gave me for the blades and with the description given they are the same length of the Gator blades I have on there now, if I order a factory set wouldn't they do the same thing?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

Are the Gators ground back much from sharpening?

Did you actually check for sufficient overlap on the current blades?

I'm currently using an early 1990's 48" deck on one of my tractors and bought the 106637 set late last year. If I get a chance, I will pull it and get some pictures in the next day or so.

Even though I work with very expensive/precision mowers every day, I am very pleased with the quality of cut it produces:

[C-Series14 15]

I have been using the 48" Gator blades and have no problems. They are the 90-944 blades from Jack's. Been using them for 10 plus years. Just put a new set on this year and no problems. I do get the missed blade of grass here and there but my new Toro push mower does that as well...

Oh, and love the stripes TT! Mine does the same thing, neighbor thinks I paint my yard!!! :woohoo:

[SAM58 30]

Use 15-48SC02 as the model number. (enter "none" if a serial number is required)

That should get you close, but it's not guaranteed to be the exact model number of the deck you are working with.

Hint: Toro/WH #106637 would be the blades you need to replace the 90-944 Gator blades.

Toro# 106637 is what I use... :woohoo:

[LuckyJohn 0]

Well that does it, I am ordering new blades!!! I just pulled the deck off and measured the blades I have on there now and the middle one measured 15 15/16" and the outside blades measured right at 16" or a shade under. That is a big difference in the 16 1/16" or the 16 1/8" that the blades should be. I am ordering a new ones tonight. I also put the square on them and it is surprising the gap that the blades left. Should I get the gator blades or factory ones.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

I personally recommend the "standard" OEM blades, but only because of the design of the deck shell.

The Gator blade's serrated sails disrupt airflow to create a turbulence - which is intended to suspend the clippings longer so they are cut more than once. (similar to a mulching deck/blade)

This may be true on a high-vacuum deck design, but this particular Wheel Horse deck style relies highly on a conventional "high sail" blade design to lift the blades of grass and hold them up long enough to be cut. Another downfall of a tall, open deck shell with the blades near the bottom is the more you increase the height of cut, (HOC) the more likely it will be to draw air in from under the edge of the shell instead of actually lifting the grass blades.

Here's an excerpt from a Toro product performance bulletin pertaining to Atomic blades - which is their equivalent of Gator blades:

Atomic Blades: These blades have serrated sail edges that are designed to finely chop dry leaf

material during the fall season. Dried leaves impact the additional serrations at high velocity and

break apart into small pieces. The small dried material is then redistributed into the turf canopy,

providing nutrients and minimizing clean-up. It should be noted that these blades are designed to

mulch dried material and not fresh cut turf grasses.

Although the bulletin technically addresses the use of Atomic blades on the Groundsmaster 7200 series of mowers, the deck design is similar to the Wheel Horse deck. (low vacuum/lower blade tip speed/minimal baffling)

I can also back it up with real-life experience. I installed a set of Atomic blades on the Groundsmaster 4500D at work last season. It didn't do bad when cutting lower, dry grass and it did very well with leaf mulching last fall. Once the grass "pepped up" this spring, I fought with clumping and a very poor after-cut appearance. As soon as I reinstalled the standard blades, the clippings came out more uniform and there was a lot less streaking/skipping/uncut grass.