Ignition switch question

[bo dawg 518]

Let me get in the right area of this group for this question of mine about the ignition on my 68 Charger 12 Auto.

Now TT has given me some info to go on, but said a picture would help. What I have is a 3 post switch: 1 to battery, 1 to starter, and other 1 to condenser which then go's to points. Tractor model # 1-7235 Motor is K301s, serial# D012320, spec# 47147B

Dont know if this is the original motor cause the tractor # show's it being an Electro 12 but no where on the tractor say's that, just Charger 12 Automatic.

Problem is no spark to the points and the switch has no power coming out where that hooks into.

Can I use an alternate switch ($10.00 at Car Quest) it has 5 post, but the 3 I need is there, marked: B/S/ACC/G/, will it work? My old one has mark: B/S/M on the back.

Bo

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[bo dawg 518]

here is the other pic

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[nylyon-(Admin) 7,882]

That looks to be magnito ignition. The wire to the points (condenser) would be a ground with the key off and open with the key on. Disconnect the wire from the condenser and you can test it with a meter. If you still aren't having spark, check the points. Again, with a meter be sure that the points are completing the ground circuit when closed. Many of these engines have been converted to battery ignition, which would require a new key switch.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

Because your tractor does not have a starter relay (solenoid) the CarQuest ignition switch will not work, Bo.

I'm guessing the engine still turns over with the key, correct? (you could add a toggle switch to kill the engine if that part of the switch is bad)

To test your current ignition switch remove the wire from the "M" terminal and check for continuity between the "M" terminal and chassis ground with the switch in the off position. With the switch in the run position the circuit should be open. (no continuity)

DO NOT APPLY POWER TO THE WIRE TO THE POINTS/CONDENSER OR YOU WILL BURN UP THE IGNITION COIL UNDER THE FLYWHEEL!

There is a slight possibilty that the wire from the coil to the condenser/points may have have shorted out against something under the flywheel. The plug wire could have also pulled out of the coil, but that is unlikely.

Unhook the "kill" wire to the ignition switch from the condenser, turn the engine over with the starter, and see if you have spark at the plug. If you don't, you'll need to pull the flywheel and look for the shorted/broken wire.

The only other thing it could be is the coil itself. :whistle:

[bo dawg 518]

The red colored wire in the picture, is hooked to the condenser/points from the switch marked M, and has been that way for the few years I have owned it.

So what you're saying is now possibly the ignition coil is burned up?

The engine does turn over with key but no spark at the plug, and at the time I had a weak to no spark at the points. Then I put a new condenser on it and had spark at the points only (I think) but now I dont, and not reading anything from the switch wire feeding the condenser. I dont know... I have a friend looking at it that is a retired school bus mechanic (30 + years) and he's the one that thinks the switch is bad. I dont know much about these things, but with help from you and all the other guy's here there is hope for me yet. If you haven't noticed I'm leaning alot on you guys.

Bo

[bo dawg 518]

Ok OK...TT...I think the light just came on. I understand now what you're saying.

The wire comes FROM the points... to the switch... only to kill the engine when you turn the key off. I was looking at it the other way feeding the points :imstupid: :imstupid: I will take this and run with it. Pulling the flywheel

TT... I appreciate it alot, I will be in touch and let you know what I find.

Bo