SousaKerry 503 #1 Posted June 24, 2011 :hide: Just rebuilt the carb for my H60 and I can't seem to get the dang thing to stop flowing gas all over my new paint job. I even put in a new float and purposely bent it down so that there would be a lower level in the bowl and it still overflows... Any ideas guys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corn53 4 #2 Posted June 24, 2011 I hate tecumseh carbs!!!! Never had much luck and lost lots of time. Try shoving in a Kohler Is the seat for the float valve good?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puddlejumper 67 #3 Posted June 24, 2011 Overflows just setting, or only when trying to run or running the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
305 380 #4 Posted June 24, 2011 did you get the old seat out and the new one installed properly? i just rebuilt the carb on a H60 and it's a bit tricky to do, my guess is the new seat is messed up. where did you get the rebuild kit? i got one from Primeline through O'Reilly Auto Parts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim_M 179 #5 Posted June 24, 2011 With a little imagination and ingenuity you can bolt a Carter N on a Tecumseh. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 761 #6 Posted June 24, 2011 I know how your feeling. I've been there as well. Not wishing to question your assembly skills, but the prime cause of overflowing is the Valve Seat fitting, Valve, Float or Float adjustment. I assume it is a Series 1 Carb have you- carried out the 'Pop Off' test after rebuild?. was the Valve Seat fitted the right way around and without damage?. was the Float position/clearance checked using an 11/64" drill bit?. Have you checked the new Float to see if it has a leak and filling with fuel?. My post rebuild problem was the leaking Float. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #7 Posted June 24, 2011 Did you replace the needle and seat? Check float? The side if the seat with the ring on it goes into carb body first. Open end of clip on needle goes towards engine. Shake float or submerge and check for leaks. Set float with 11/64ths drill bit or just about level. I have done way more Tech carbs than Kohler or Carter without any problems other than once when I overlooked a bad float. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #8 Posted June 25, 2011 It's got to i the floatbowl somewhere, are the needle and seat a matched set? did you use a new fiber washer or gasket under the seat? is the float damaged or leaking? whats the condition of the floatbowl and gasket? Has water/ice damaged the float or bowl? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #9 Posted June 25, 2011 did you use a new fiber washer or gasket under the seat? N/A on a Tecumseh, just a vinton o-ring the needle seats on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SousaKerry 503 #10 Posted June 25, 2011 all new parts original Tecumseh replacements from my local dealer, I'll have to check a few more things i guess thanks for the suggestions guys. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SousaKerry 503 #11 Posted June 27, 2011 got it fixed the seal for the float valve was not seated all the way to the bottom (err top) of the bore pushed it in with a very small screw driver works fine now. Now I am a little worried that the engine may be a little under powered it runs great sitting still but running down the street in 3rd gear with my fat butt on it any slight incline and the motor slows down considerably and begins to run rough. pull the choke out about a 1/2 inch and it straitens out a little. Could this be a timing issue? I have to admit I guessed when I set it btw this is on a 655 with an H-60 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #12 Posted June 27, 2011 I use the end of a small drill bit to push it until you feel the rubber compress. Did you put it in with the side with the ring up? Since you are able to correct the problem with the choke I would think it if carb related. Tecumseh says if the carb needs further adj to do it under load which can be tough depending on the machine (sweeper, snowblower) I was having a problem with my sweeper and my neighbor offered to help. I was thinking WTF, come on you bring your equipment in to be serviced so I was a bit hesitant and skeptical. I was actually thinking about this the other day and was could not remember 100% what he did. I am 90% sure that he adjusted the idle mixture screw at high RPM and then I would put the sweeper under load and check for improvement. After a couple of 1/8th turns it was all set. I didn't believe it was going to work because it is opposite of how you are supposed to dial it in but it certainly worked. His cousin owns a small engine repair shop and he had seen him do it numerous times in the past. This was after a complete carb rebuild when I swapped the snowblower bucket for the sweeper for the first time. I don't have much experience with timing so I can't comment on that. Good luck EDIT: I initially said "idle" when I meant "idle mixture screw" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #13 Posted June 27, 2011 If it straightens out with a little choke you are running to lean, fatten it up a tad, maybe out a 1/2 turn on the high speed jet Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
305 380 #14 Posted June 27, 2011 as for being underpowered , the H60 in my lawn ranger hauls me at 220 lbs and mows my lawn at the same time just fine. keep in mind it is only 6 hp you needing to pull the choke out makes me think you still have a carb issue. is the governor working properly? is the throttle linkage giving you full throttle? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #15 Posted June 27, 2011 back to your origonal post, is the float still set low? raise it to spec, it is a major player in the high speed fuel metering, then play with the high peed mixture under load or 1/8 turn as previously recommended Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SousaKerry 503 #16 Posted June 28, 2011 Ok I'm an idiot after messing arround for about a 1/2 hour last night I noticed some oil dripping off the head......nnnnoooooooooooooooooooooo I'm thinking blown head gasket or worse and then I touched the spark plug and it moved crap I never tightened the spark plug tightened it down and ran like a champ lots of power and that strange little psst noise disappeared(sounded like sheet metal rubbing) Think I need to go back to engine diagnostics 101? :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #17 Posted June 30, 2011 Think I need to go back to engine diagnostics 101? Don't fret... Chit happends, and we've all been there. Sometimes I just walk away, and come back with a beer and look it over again thinking "what's the easiest thing that could go wrong that I've overlooked?" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinsRJ 723 #18 Posted June 30, 2011 and come back with a beer Beer does fix everything...... doesn't it Back on topic, as for Tech carbs I always have found that extreme attention to detail is the key to success. The LMG based carb I feel gets a bad rap, is it better than a Carter N? Probably not but, the Carter N has its issues too...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #19 Posted June 30, 2011 yessiree, sometimes just walking away and taking a break is the right answer, as a youngster I rember swaping engines in the company wreaker 6hr job and one of the oldtimers seeing me fight the engine for 45 minuites trying to get the clutch to align with the trans input shaft when he finally came over with 2 coffee's and said time to take a break before you break something, so we went out back for a coffee and smoke, 10 minuites later when I came back in the engine and trans jumped together, the only thing different was that I wasn't frustrated and instead of trying to force the issue I just finessed it together. :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites