New Member - with a new old Commando 800

[njdpo 10]

Hi all

[COMMANDO1 23]

1968,1969,1972 and 1973 i think, if it has foot rests it is 70 or above. i have 1 also my first with a snow plow. i put ag rears on it and added a little weight to the rear. last year thet little tractor impressed the hell out of me. it pushed 12 inches of snow with no problem, it is my little keeper.

1970 and 71 were commando v8

[CasualObserver 3,411]

Wow. First What an intro. You have identified a ton of questions.... I don't have time to address them all, so first I'll hit some pertinent ones and you can re-evaluate / pare down your questions with this new information. I'm not that well versed in the models after 1970 anyway.

Your tractor is a 1972 or 73 model. To hit it exactly you need to look here at the aluminum tag.

According to the master model list that's posted, you should see either 1-0110 for a 1972 Tractor, or a 1-0130 for a 1973 model. (if there is another number after those, it's just a build reference) One of our members has created a website that hosts many of the old out-of-print manuals for Wheel Horse tractors and accessories. If you join up over here http://www.mywheelhorse.com/index.php and navigate to the "Document Archive" link on the upper left-hand side, and look in the 1972-1973 era you'll find some manuals you can use. They contain the wiring diagram.

Yes, your machine is worth working on. Are you going to fix it up and flip it for a profit? No. Will you have a sturdy well built hard working tractor that will last? Yes.

This weekend (right now thru Saturday) is the annual Wheel Horse Collectors Club show in Pennsylvania, so for the most part, chatter will be slow for the next few days.

[COMMANDO1 23]

I read you post some more and seen you mentioned lights.....you might have a commando v8 im going to check you serial no.

[mavfreak 11]

I don't ever recall seeing a commando with the tag being on the side of the stearing tower? I almost think that it is a b80 with commando stickers on it.:dunno:If you post the numbers off that plate then we can find out.

But I have a commando 800 and it has been a very good machine for me. And its is almost the same as the b80.

I don't think it would be a good idea to run a snowblower on the 8hp but it'll push snow just fine!

lights could have been added by a dealer

[JUSS10 250]

clickless

[Ken B 3,202]

Looks like a pretty clean machine. If the bearings are quiet on the deck find someone that can weld some patches on it for you. The deck doesn't look to terribly awful in the pics, I have fixed much worse. If the deck is beyond repair they aren't to hard to find. It will push snow, not nearly as much as the 444 but it'll do 6-8 inches as long as its not heavy wet snow. I know the 444's are a beast in the snow as I had one.

Good job rescuing it, it would have been a shame to see it get scrapped. Just tell the old lady you need two in the event the 444 breaks, parts aren't quite as easy to find for that one and not nearly as cheap to obtain.

[shorts 182]

:hide: good rescue, it's a keeper.

It sounds like you have a good helper, mine used to sit under the hood and drop tools on me. Lets look at the carb screws, one of them is idle speed, it will act as a stop for the throttle lever on the top of the carb,IIRC its horizontal and on high on the left side of the carb, in to increase idle speed and out to slow it down, start by backing it out untill the throttle shaft is fully closed and then in until it touches the throttle lever, + 1 turn to start.

The idle mixture is in the left side at a downward angle, count the turns as you tighten it to just barly snug and then back out 1 1/4 to1 1/2 turns to start.

The high speed needle is straight down from the top, it should line up with the center of the float bowl on the bottom, again count the turns in until it's just snug and then back it out 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns the engine should start and run so you can adjust the carb to run properly. start the engine and adjust the idle speed to keep the engine running, slowly turn the idle mixture screw in until the engine starts to lose speed and then out until it starts to lose speed then in to split the difference, it should run best in the middle then readjust the idle speed to a good idle speed, then back to the idle mixture to get the best possible idle.

now pull the throttle on the dash to high speed and slowly adjust the high speed needle for the best high speed operation, you may need to do some adjusting on the high speed mixture when you start to work the engine, if you can't reach the adjustment from the seat adjust it 1/8 turn at a time and try it under load and so on, when you finally get it to make the best power go back and recheck the idle speed and mixture. they are independant systems that interact with and affect each other you're just looking for the best balance.

[Horse'n Around 22]

Howdy Dave :hide:

[njdpo 10]

First - thanks for all who have responded

.

Want to get the serial number out to the group (looks like a 1972)

will post additional comments/questions a bit later.

- MODEL: 1 0110 7

- S.Num: 895226

QUESTIONS:

GAS TANK - the plastic tank has JB weald on it - presumably sealing up a crack. Can these tanks be easily replaced ? The possibility of a leaky tank directly in the area of the switch / wiring harness makes me a bit nervous.

-------------------------------

PLOUGH BLADE - Does anybody have and photos of what the setup looks like, which might help me identify the correct configuration for the 800... I assume one size does NOT fit all ? Any model numbers to look for - or reference sheet? What about a price range for a blade (i recognise price depends on condition so a low and a high price range would at least ball park it for me).

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thanks all ... :WRS:

[jusjeepn 59]

I`ll try a few.

Lights: Take the headlight lens off and send it me asap! That should fix another one of mine. Seriously though, this lighting system was/is a little sub par. The alu. housing uses the hood as ground. With the hood hinged the way it is, your ground is and will always be intermittant. The permanant fix is to add a ground wire to the hinge where it bolts to the hood and then to the frame. Now your hood has a ground but your alu housing still is not! These were originally riveted in place and the rivets loosen over time. Many people put sheetmetal screws in in place of rivets but this never lasts either. I use a 12/32 machine thread screw with lock nut and thread locker. It also never hurts to scrape a little paint where the aluminum meets the steel and add die-electric grease to seal the contact points. It sounds like you also need a new switch. Any automotive grade switch will work. Next is the bulb sockets in the alu housing. Many have lost their connection in the housing and simply need tightened up. The spring loaded contacts in side can also be replaced really inexpensively through just about any automotive parts store. Now all you need is two good bulbs and 12V. Oh, and the rear light is stock and comes on with the switch. The original style lens (or the whole assembly) can be found at just about any truck stop.

It can absolutely handle a blade! Yours can use either the short frame or the long frame. Stick with a 42" and take small bites in heavy wet snow. It will suprise you what it can push! It will run a snow blower but you'll need to take it slow and easy.

Your shifter can be tightened up fairly easy. Remove the panel directly in front of the shifter and then slide up the shifter boot. (Yours does have a shifter boot right?) There is a small allen head bolt (dog screw) with a jam nut in front of the hole where the shifter goes into the trans. Insert an allen wrench into the end and hold it steady while just breaking loose the jam nut. Tighten the dog screw about 1/16 of a turn and check the shifter. Continue in 1/16 turn increments until it is tight to your satisfaction. Tighten the jam nut while holding the dog screw and your done! CAUTION!!! The dog screw has a small ball shaped into the end of it to allow the free movement of the shifter. If you over tighten the dog screw it can break.

The seat is not original but it is a very comfortable seat ( I have one myself). Looks like the past owner just tried to make it work any way he/she could. It's a worker and it's your's, don't be afraid to redrill it and move it over.

Your deck can probably be repaired just from looking at the photos. The deck from your Toro will not fit without some major modification. A decent replacement can probably be had from a member here.

That lever under seat pan is a park brake and is not the best but will hold if adjusted properly. The adjustment is in the band itself. Once you look it over real good it should be self explanitory

The closest color to factory off the shelf is International Harvester red. Tractor supply seems to be the main supplier for most members here, but you pick what suits you (and your budget)!

Just give em a little TLC and these machines will work for you for years to come. Enjoy em and hope you have a lot of storage room because this won't be your last!

[hm12460 53]

I've had 2 Commando 800's. Very good machines, pretty basic and straight forward. My first Wheel Horse was a Commando 800 that i bought at an auction sale in Chesapeake, Va. in 1990. Wished I still had it. Sold it about 5 years ago now.

[njdpo 10]

COMMANDO

Good to hear this machine is capable of dealing with a blade