REAR BEARING REPLACEMENT

[TOM CAT 0]

:hide: I have a c160 year 1976

The rear axle seal has worked it way out and there is end play in the acal.

I tried to remove the hub with a 3 arm puller and it will not move. i have sprayed oil in the key slot and still nothing. i am thinking if adding heat then quench it.

Any tips on getting this thing off.

Plus can the outer bearing be replaced with out taking the transmission apart.

[rmaynard 16,699]

The seals can be replaced without opening the transmission, the bearings cannot.

If you can get the hubs off, it may just need new seals.

End play (in and out) is normal. Up and down usually indicates bad bearings.

Removal of the hubs is the most difficult part of the job if they are rusted on. Soak it for a couple of days in PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil. Heat sometimes helps.

Most important, DON'T hit the hub with a hammer. It will break, or you could pop the clip off the inside of the differential and the whole axle will come out, necessitating the opening of the tranny.

Search the forum here in this section, and you will find many threads on hub removal, homemade tools used, and other methods of removal.

Oh, by the way

Here is a link to a thread that has a hub puller that I made.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...=0entry188202

[TOM CAT 0]

:hide: THANK YOU FOR THE QUICK REPLY.

I WILL BE CAREFUL BUT THE WAY MY LUCK GOES I WILL BE BUYING NEW HUBS,

AGAIN ,

THANK YOU.

TOM

[shorts 182]

I have a heavy duty Snap-on hub puller that was made to remove the old style VW and Chrysler hobs from the tapered axle shafts, it bolts directly onto/inti the lugnut/bolt holes in the hub and then you tighten the bejesus out of it and then smack the small dia of the hub with stereo hammers, 2 large = size on oposite sides at the same time, the object is to momentarly distort the id of the flange so that the tension on the puller can move the hub. tighten the puller and repeat the process.

try to find someone/somewhere that you can rent/borrow the proper puller or pay a minimal fee for professional assistance.

where are you located? if your'e close I'd be glad to lend a hand.

[Forest Road 594]

I recently went through the same ordeal. I borrowed a 3 jaw puller and went to work on the left side. Days of rust penetrant, hours of heat and no luck. Then I tried the right side.....turns out the previous owner had it off once. It slid right off. I used the other hub to make a puller. Check it out.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...topic=27130&hl=

I can't claim credit. Others hre have done this before. Good luck!!

[shorts 182]

the homemade puller, coles dad post use a fine thread bolt for the jackscrew to get more pressure/leverage with the nut between the hubs and also note the 3 hard washers that are acting as a thrust bearing between the nut and outer hub. use either wheelbearing grease or gearlube "high shear" on the washers and threads.

[TOM CAT 0]

:hide:

I got the hub off.

I used the same idea as using the hub with bolts. but modidies it a little.

I made a plate with a 3/4" bolt in the center. The bolt circle dia. is 4.5".

i uses grade 8 - 3/8" bolts / washer / nuts. Then bolted the plate flush with the hub and used a air inpact wrench.

Lots of Brake Free oil.

It came off somewhat easy.

I will take pictures of the device I made and will post them.

Again thanks for all the advice.

Now to find the ball bearing 1 1/2" I.D. pn. 1533 at a reasonable price.

I have a friend at Motion Industries, We can see what he can do.

Thanks again.

Tom

[SousaKerry 503]

Been through the Motion Industries route they can't get em either they are custom manufactured for Wheelhorse/toro only. It seems old Cecil Pond got one last laugh on us all. :hide:

[rmaynard 16,699]

Now to find the ball bearing 1 1/2" I.D. pn. 1533 at a reasonable price.

Since they are proprietary to Toro, the best price I have found is about $73.00 each from Mowpart.com.

[pfrederi 19,276]

I got the hub off.

I used the same idea as using the hub with bolts. but modidies it a little.

I made a plate with a 3/4" bolt in the center. The bolt circle dia. is 4.5".

i uses grade 8 - 3/8" bolts / washer / nuts. Then bolted the plate flush with the hub and used a air inpact wrench.

Lots of Brake Free oil.

It came off somewhat easy.

I will take pictures of the device I made and will post them.

Again thanks for all the advice.

Now to find the ball bearing 1 1/2" I.D. pn. 1533 at a reasonable price.

I have a friend at Motion Industries, We can see what he can do.

Thanks again.

Tom

Save your time, we have been to all the bearing houses around.

[TOM CAT 0]

:hide:

I GOT THE TRANSMISSION APART.

THE NEEDLE BEARING BEHIND THE SEAL IS GONE. THERE WAS NOTHING BUT CHUNKS OF NEEDLE BEARINGS LEFT. AND THE SHAFT IS REALLY CHEWED UP.

FIRST QUESTION: HOW LOMG IS THE NEEDLE BEARING HOUSING? THERE IS JUST A HALF OF A LIP IN THERE THAT I THINK IS PART OF THE BEARING HOUSING.

SECOND: THE BALL BEARING THAT IS PRESSED INTO THE CASING HALF. DO I NEED A SPECIAL INTERNAL BEARING PULLER? I FOUND A KIT WITH A SLIDE HAMMER THAT WILL ADJUST TO 1.25" AT HARBOR FREIGHT. WILL THIS WORK OR IS THERE SOMETHING BETTER?

THIRD: HOW TO REMOVE WHAT IS LEFT OF THE NEEDLE BEARING HOUSING.

I TAKE IT THAT I NEED TOREMOVE THE BALL BEARING FIRST AND PULL IT FROM THE INSIDE.

ID THERE ANYTHING ELSE I NEED TO BE LOOKING AT SO I DO NOT HAVE MORE PROBLEMS LATER?

THANK YOU AND BE SAFE

TOM

[Trouty56 567]

You may find a socket the correct diameter to pound out the bearing race. When I opened the one I worked on (4 speed with 1 in axles) I left the ball bearings in place. I pounded the needle bearings right out the ends from the inside and replaced them the same way. Need to leave space for the seals. Hopefully you can avoid removing the big ball bearings.

Possibly the big bearings are OK but CharliesD250 mentioned in many posts that he takes the bearings apart and replaces the balls. He is at the show most likely but maybe get hold of him later. For now I would clean them good and see if they will be OK.

Correct term should be tap not pound.

[TOM CAT 0]

:hide:

Trouty 56 thank you.