Plastic fuel tank

[Actonhorse 26]

Not sure if this is an engine topic but here goes... I am restoring a B-80 and I got it running on the weekend... yeah... Runs nice. The problem is the fuel tank. It has silicone on the bottom around the fuel shutoff valve and I was suspect that it was a patch job. Sure enough after two days the fuel ate through the silicone and it started leaking. Does anyone know if there is a way to patch, fix the plastic tanks? Any info would be appreciated.

Dean

[daveoman1966 3,815]

you'll mess around forever patching the plastic tank. I have a good replacement for you... $30 for it, plus ship of $8 from zip 16433 (presuming you are in the USA).

The tank on right ...the bigger one that is.

for more pics, send me an EMAIL.... offisite. My address is:

daveoman@windstream.net

Attached Image

[stevasaurus 23,089]

I wonder if JB Weld might work for this application. I would cut a plastic patch out of a lid of some sort and weld it over the hole. :hide:

[Save Old Iron 1,568]

you'll mess around forever patching the plastic tank.

take Dave up on his offer

polyethylene gas tanks resist any type of chemical bonding with adhesives. manufacturers use focused microwaves on any joints or attachments to the tank

Small pinholes can be repaired using a soldering iron and "smearing" over the hole. Viton o'rings can be MECHANICALLY secured onto flat areas with self tapping screws. Compress the o'ring under the head of the screw.

The same "hot iron" technique can be use to repair a crack . I have used a plastic welder with good success on small cracks in gas tanks and not so small cracks in plastic hoods. Very technique sensitive and the proper compatible plastic welding rods must be used.

But all said and done, other than the compressed oring, all other repairs will end up costing as much as the replacement tank.

[Actonhorse 26]

Thanks for the advice, kind of confirmed what I was already thinking. I have bought stuff from Dave in the past, I'll send him an e-mail.

Dean

[Kelly 1,030]

Is this the tank with the nipple built in to the tank or the one with the rubber gromet and metal fuel valve? and yes for get repairing the plastic tank you will be doing it again later.

[varosd 1,185]

I also would get rid of that leaking gas tank...I had to replace the one on my B-80...didnt like all that gas dripping near the hot engine. pretty sure thats why they moved it under the seat in later models?

[jimbotelho 1]

I agree with the guys I went that route for nothing get another great advice

[Actonhorse 26]

Is this the tank with the nipple built in to the tank or the one with the rubber gromet and metal fuel valve? and yes for get repairing the plastic tank you will be doing it again later.

Kelly: Yes it is the one with the grommet and metal shut off. It looked like there was silicone around the grommet and it was loose so the PO tried to seal it.

[rmaynard 15,935]

You may just need a new rubber bushing. The old ones dry out and get hard, then they won't seal. Before you buy a replacement tank, try a new bushing for about $3.00.

[Actonhorse 26]

You may just need a new rubber bushing. The old ones dry out and get hard, then they won't seal. Before you buy a replacement tank, try a new bushing for about $3.00.

Okay, interesting, is that a Toro item or can it be picked up at a hardware store?

I guess I should check the parts manual....

[rmaynard 15,935]

They are available from Toro, Sten's dealers, and from Brian (KB9LOR), a parts vendor here on RS. The Toro part number is 46-6560. They run anywhere from about $1.50 to $3.50 depending on where you get it.

[Actonhorse 26]

Thanks Bob, I will let you know how I make out.

[DanteLabon 0]

It's been a while since this thread has been going, but does Dave still check in here...and does anyone know if he still sells these B80 tanks? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[Sparky-(Admin) 22,181]

It's been a while since this thread has been going, but does Dave still check in here...and does anyone know if he still sells these B80 tanks? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Dave is an active member here, but he might not see this. It would be quicker if you sent him a message.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/user/1200-daveoman1966/

Mike............

[Cpalmer 0]

Was wondering if anyone had any of the tanks for sale still i emailed dave but its been several years since he posted my email is christopherapalmer@outlook.com

[rmaynard 15,935]

Emailed

 

[Tuneup 1,433]

There is always a cheap solution. My old C-120 just needed to get running. I didn't cheap the trans rebuild. Gaskets, seals, etc. Engine smokes a bit but is strong. Not ready for the restoration so I plastic welded the leaky bottom seam and opening, punched a hole in the top, added a grommet and right-angle plastic joint. A rubber tube into the tank to the base and another to the fuel pump. The pump is strong enough to pull from the elevated tank. Works like a champ.

 

I know, it's not original and makes me look like the stereotypical farmer who works with what he has (and that's just fine) but you get to the point where enough red-necking is corrected that in exasperation you have to add a little bit of your own to get it running. I could have drilled that base piece with a grommet and valve. Might still do that. You'll be proud of me when it's restored in 2020, honest 

[HappyHillbilly 86]

Of course, some leaks are worse than others but I fixed my plastic tank leaks with “Loctite General Purpose” epoxy. The one that’s two-part in a single syringe (clear/yellow).

 

- i degreased it

- roughed up areas with a coarse file

- leveled it out with putty knife

- let set for a few days & no more leaks.