dlpaw 3 #1 Posted May 29, 2011 Hello, I have this engine out of a '62 lawn ranger. I am not sure if it was original, and would like to know what model engine it is, so I can get a gasket kit, points, etc.. Unfortunately the engine tag looks to be missing. Is it possible to tell without a tag? Any hidden number that I can't see at the moment? It has one casting number on it, which I included a picture of, in case it helps. Where is a good place to get all the parts I need?....I am thinking gaskets, points, carb kit....just enough to get it running again, since it was supposed to have ran some 3 to 5 years ago. I'd like to pull the head since the engine sat without a spark plug in it for years. I tried a 3/8 ratchet on the head bolts, but they seem stuck, I did not want to start forcing it, and end up with broken head bolts. Is it a common problem with head bolts seizing to the bolt hole bores in the cylinder head on these engines?.... or should I go ahead and try the impact wrench?? I am sure I will have more questions.....I am trying to get this running quickly in time for the father's day parade! Thanks in advance Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #2 Posted May 29, 2011 A '62 Ranger should have had an H60 Tecumseh on it, and to me that looks like an H60 Tecumseh. The model and spec #'s should have been on the shroud. If you are pulling the head off anyway you could confirm it by measuring the bore and stroke. Its an aluminum block, so the steel bolts that hold the head down are probably corroded in there. I would use plenty of penetrating oil while trying to get them to move. Tecumseh parts are still available. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,628 #3 Posted May 29, 2011 Not sure what engine that is. It kinda looks like it was taken from a tug boat used to pull the ark off of Mount Ararat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,346 #4 Posted May 29, 2011 Not sure what engine that is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puddlejumper 67 #5 Posted May 29, 2011 That appears to be a h60 and It should Have had a HT55 originally (sorry Kiwi). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #6 Posted May 29, 2011 That appears to be a h60 and It should Have had a HT55 originally (sorry Kiwi). Dammit! I knew I shoud have checked before I posted. They went to the H60 in '63. Any idea where he might find an HT55 Mitch?? :WRS: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puddlejumper 67 #7 Posted May 30, 2011 You have one dont ya? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #8 Posted May 30, 2011 You have one dont ya? One of these days I'm gonna have to sell it so I can fill up the gas tank on my truck and feed the dog! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puddlejumper 67 #9 Posted May 30, 2011 You have one dont ya? One of these days I'm gonna have to sell it so I can fill up the gas tank on my truck and feed the dog! Either the truck or the dog would go hungry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlpaw 3 #10 Posted May 30, 2011 The air cleaner tag is just directions for service, with no real clues to the engine specs.....and I am not seeing carb markings yet, but I plan to pull it of and clean it up anyway, so hopefully something will materialize. Does that stamping on the case side mean anything? If it turns out to be a H55, instead of an H60, can I still use the same gasket kit, points, head gasket and carb kit? Or should I wait to get these parts until I know exactly what model I have here? I suppose getting the head off will reveal a lot about this engine..... Thanks again for the help with this fellas! Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puddlejumper 67 #11 Posted May 30, 2011 It is a H60 some parts will interchange with the HT55. If I where you I would clean carb and put in new points and condensor and go from there. I wouldnt pull the head till I got fuel and fire because chances are in your favor that it will kick off and run. The carbs are finicky so get some chem dip and soak,blow out with air and make sure its clean. And use a new carb mounting gasket. Just dont cut any corners make sure its clean and it should at the least run and then you can determine if going internal is necessary. It wouldnt hurt to spray a liberall amount of kroil oil or other penetrating oil in the spark plug hole and let set a day or so since it sat for a while with out a plug in it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
littleredrider 408 #12 Posted May 30, 2011 The linkage and air filter housing looks to be like what my 67 ranger had. But you can tell that's not the original housing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlpaw 3 #13 Posted May 30, 2011 It is a H60 some parts will interchange with the HT55. If I where you I would clean carb and put in new points and condensor and go from there. I wouldnt pull the head till I got fuel and fire because chances are in your favor that it will kick off and run. The carbs are finicky so get some chem dip and soak,blow out with air and make sure its clean. And use a new carb mounting gasket. Just dont cut any corners make sure its clean and it should at the least run and then you can determine if going internal is necessary. It wouldnt hurt to spray a liberall amount of kroil oil or other penetrating oil in the spark plug hole and let set a day or so since it sat for a while with out a plug in it. Thanks for the advice, I was wondering the same thing.... if I should not try removing the head until I attempt starting it. My only worry was that the engine sat without a spark plug in it for years, Luckily the hood was on the tractor and over the hole, but I was just worried about mud daubers or other debris that may have gotten in. I'll try the carb and points first. Not having worked on one of these before......do I need to pull off the engine shroud to get at the points and condensor? If so, it looks like I will have to pull half of the head bolts to do so. I am hoping they are easy to get at. Thanks again for the help! Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,173 #14 Posted May 30, 2011 You have to pull the flywheel to get to the points. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 759 #15 Posted May 30, 2011 Wise move to pull the Head first before attempting to start it. H60 should have a bore dia of 2 5/8", should confirm what you have if no ID marks on the Shroud. Gasket Set is generic to many sizes. H60 is part #33235A. Breaker set and Condenser should be 30547A and 30548B respectively. The Carb looks like a series 1, a generic Techy part fitted to many engine sizes. Repair Kit part#31840 and Air Filter 30727. The Head Bolts are only torqued to 200 INCH Lbs due Alloy Casting. Flood the bolts with penetrating Oil as best you can and leave for a while to soak. You can then gently warm up the Cylinder fins with a Hair Dryer or something to expand the metal before undoing the Head Bolts to assist freeing them up a bit. An Engine Service Manual is also essential for these Engines. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlpaw 3 #16 Posted June 2, 2011 Thanks again, especially for the part numbers. I've had it soaking a week now, I will try the head bolts this weekend and see if they come free. Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dual Wheels 2 #17 Posted June 12, 2011 I would say that is an HT 55 simply by looking at the throttle linkage. 55's had the type you see in the pic, 60's are controlled from the top by a control bracket that bolts on the cylinder bolts.The weird indents on the case by the pulley is because there is an oil pump inside, H 60's have no oil pump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #18 Posted June 12, 2011 I would say that is an HT 55 simply by looking at the throttle linkage. 55's had the type you see in the pic, 60's are controlled from the top by a control bracket that bolts on the cylinder bolts.The weird indents on the case by the pulley is because there is an oil pump inside, H 60's have no oil pump. Sorry Norm, going to argue on this one. '63 Lawn Ranger with its original H60, complete with the throttle linkages on the blower housing. This is what the HT55 cover looks like. The telltale "cutout" for the oilpump is at the bottom. Here is what the H60 cover looks like: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlpaw 3 #19 Posted June 12, 2011 Hello Folks, I finally was able to get the head off a few minutes ago, bore is 2-5/8", so I guess I am looking at an H60. The flywheel popped off easy as well. Now I can replace the points and condenser, but I am seeing seepage that may have been from the crank seal, can I replace that without taking the whole engine apart? Is there a pdf version of the service manual for the H60 engine online? I haven't had time to look yet. Also, is there a recommended place where I can get all my parts in one order at a decent price? Looks like I will need: -Gasket set with crank seals and head gasket -Carburetor kit -Points & condenser -Plug wire (or do I have to make one) -Air filter -Spark plug Thanks again for all the help folks, if I get this engine running and installed, this tractor project will be nearly done! Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 759 #20 Posted June 13, 2011 Hi Daniel, Good news that you've managed to get the Head off ok. I would like to see a pic showing the condition of it. So it looks to be an H60. the Serial number for this Model starts with 75???, so you will need to pick one that reflects the estimated age and use of the Engine, as you have no I.D. marks. Something like 75064B should be ok to use for a parts ref check. May be worth checking the Crank Bearing as well if your Oil Seal is Weeping. Partstree is a good place for One-Stop-Shop parts and should have all that you need. Perhaps there are other 'As Good' places that are cheaper?. Manual for your engine is a must have and are freely available online...... search for Tecumseh Manuals. I can't remember if the H.T Lead can be replaced separately from the Mag Coil?. Mine have been ok. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Buzz 502 #21 Posted June 13, 2011 Here's one manual: http://www.mytractorforum.com/images/refer...ngine_maual.pdf And here's some more. You'll want the first one: http://toprake.com/index.php?module=docume..._position=11:11 Have fun. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #22 Posted June 13, 2011 I can't remember if the H.T Lead can be replaced separately from the Mag Coil?. I'm not sure if the H60 is the same in this respect, but on my HT55 the HT lead was screwd onto a threaded post in the mag coil and then sealed around the insulation with some type of shellac/adhesive goopy. Chip off as much of the shellac as you can and see if the old lead will unscrew out of the coil. Chuck (SOI) did a thread on doing a similar thing on a Kohler mag some time back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlpaw 3 #23 Posted June 13, 2011 hello again, Thanks for the help and the links! I have most of the stuff on the way...and actually saved a bunch of cash by hopping between sellers with the best deals. Need the spark plug number, as I found a few different #s listed, and I do not know the original serial number of this engine.....will a J-8 be fine, or is it something special? I did not find a plug wire yet, or a number for a separate one, so I may have to make one....(mice had gotten into the shroud and did a number on some of the parts in there.) I'll try and get some pictures up soon Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 759 #24 Posted June 13, 2011 Need the spark plug number, as I found a few different #s listed, and I do not know the original serial number of this engine.....will a J-8 be fine, or is it something special? I did not find a plug wire yet, or a number for a separate one, so I may have to make one....(mice had gotten into the shroud and did a number on some of the parts in there.) Spark Plug type is specified. Champion:- RJ17LM....Alternative examples are NGK:- BR4LM and Autolite:- 245..... Electrode Gap is .030". Oh, and a bit of useless info for you. The Indent in the Case Casting to the right of the Drive Pulley is where another Output Shaft protrudes to provide a Reverse Drive in other applications . It runs off an extended Camshaft. For your engine purpose it is Cast Blind and the Camshaft end rotates in an internally cast Bearing Bush. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites