nekovt 0 #1 Posted May 22, 2011 Hi, I bought a 314-A with about 877 Hours on it. The hydro transmission seems fine. I mowed the lawn for the first time. The engine was doing fine for about 1 hr 15 min or so. Then every so often it would act like it was under a big load, a small amount of black smoke would come out. I stopped, it would slowly return to normal. It ended up happening more frequently over the next 10 min or so. I tried dis engadging the mower and stopping. Each time, it would take its time to return to normal. Has anyone ever heard of this? The rest of this tractor is in good shape. Thanks! Brad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimD 3,345 #2 Posted May 22, 2011 It sound like the carb needs cleaned and/or adjusted. Also check that the choke is all the way open when completely off, and check the fuel lines and filter for obstructions. I'm sure more help is on the way, so see what others have to say too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #3 Posted May 23, 2011 i agree,sounds like dirt in the carb Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #4 Posted May 30, 2011 Hi, Thank you for the suggestions. I ran it again today and it waited until it go really warm before it would start to do it again. Would dirt in the carb cause black smoke to come out? I can replace the fuel filter, take out the bowl, maybe blow it out with air. I did put in some seafoam in the tank to try to clean things up, maybe I losen something up in the carb. The reason I ask is that I thought I smelled oil when this was happening. When I shut it off, it puffed some black smoke as it was shutting off. I just wanted to double check about the black smoke. I'll check the choke to. thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #5 Posted June 10, 2011 I cleaned the carb and ran it. It still did the same thing only after it was hot. I'm starting to think from another discussion on the forum that it may be because I'm running high octane gas. I started to hear some pinging today and I think that's the gas combusting before it's time. Does this make sense? I think it might explain why all of my spark plugs have been carboning up very quickly to, unburned gas? Brad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #6 Posted June 11, 2011 black smoke is an indication of to much fuel/runnung rich, pinging is an indication of low octane fuel or to much ignition timing, if it's got points make sure that they are gapped properlyand that the flywheel to pickup gap is correct.if the ignition checks out,I'd install a new float in the carb and make sure that it is set properly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigd 0 #7 Posted June 11, 2011 id look hard at the ignition system its only doing it after its hot fuel problems usually make it go lean when they are heat related you are goin rich check the points and the wiring for them and the coil make sure everything is clean and tight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #8 Posted June 11, 2011 I agree with the points and condensor. In fact you would be money ahead to replace the condensor. I have seen them go bad and you would swear it was a fuel problem Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #9 Posted June 11, 2011 Thank you for the ideas! this is a 314-A (And the pump seems to be good). I don't know if these have points or what type of ignition system these have. Does anyone know if there's a 14HP Kohler service manual anywheres? I would have never thought to look for an ignition problem - yes, when it was hot it actually started to knock worse than I've ever seen it do before, I kept having to stop while mowing the lawn and then it got to the point where it just would knock and act a bit bogged down all the time. Can I use a multimeter to test the condenser? What does the condenser actually do? I know what they look like but not sure what they do. It runs just great for about 30-45 minutes, then gets hot and starts to run terrible. Thank you! Brad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #10 Posted June 11, 2011 Thank you for the ideas! this is a 314-A (And the pump seems to be good). I don't know if these have points or what type of ignition system these have. Does anyone know if there's a 14HP Kohler service manual anywheres? I would have never thought to look for an ignition problem - yes, when it was hot it actually started to knock worse than I've ever seen it do before, I kept having to stop while mowing the lawn and then it got to the point where it just would knock and act a bit bogged down all the time. Can I use a multimeter to test the condenser? What does the condenser actually do? I know what they look like but not sure what they do. It runs just great for about 30-45 minutes, then gets hot and starts to run terrible. Thank you! Brad If its a magum it wont have points or a condensor, and you can check the condensot with a meter, but you would have to check it at different temperatures. All a condensor is is a capacitor and all its for is to reduce the arcing at the points. But as cheap as they are, its easier to replace them thatn test and play with them. What year is your tractor, that will help narrow down if its a K series or M series Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #11 Posted June 11, 2011 HI Thanks! This is a 1984 314-A with a 14 HP Engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #12 Posted June 11, 2011 If you get the serial number off the motor well can look it up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #13 Posted June 11, 2011 I just went out and saw the coil & the condenser. All wires look good, the condenser looks like it may have been replaced at one time. The negative power lead on the coil goes in to the engine somewhere as well as the condenser (It's Y'd off at the coil) and then the positive lead on the coil goes to the connector maybe to the front panel. Does that sound right? The model # of the engine is: K321S - Kohler 14HP. The Spec # is 60424 Does that help? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #14 Posted June 11, 2011 Ok, Its a K series, Battey + goes to coil +, Coil neg should have points wire and condensor wire to it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #15 Posted June 11, 2011 The wiring to the coil is good. I'm guessing the wire that goes in the engine is going to a set of magnets on the flywheel some where? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #16 Posted June 11, 2011 The wiring to the coil is good. I'm guessing the wire that goes in the engine is going to a set of magnets on the flywheel some where? Nope, it should go to the condensor and the point, the points will be under a rectangular cover on the right front lower engine from the drivers seat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #17 Posted June 12, 2011 I found it! I double checked and cleaned the points. I eventually went through everything and I could find that there's a weak spot in the head gasket. When I give the engine some gas, I can see a little smoke come out of the top of the engine as well as the exhaust. Would a hole in the head gasket cause the engine to start knocking and loosing power only after it's been running for 40 minutes and be fine up until then? Thanks! Brad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigd 0 #18 Posted June 12, 2011 yep that could cause most of your symptoms change the head gasket and go from there i've got a feeling that wont cure it all condensors are cheap replace it.for a kohler manual go to kohlers website its free if you want a hard copy there are always several on ebay.let us know what happens. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #19 Posted June 12, 2011 Thanks, I just ordered a head gasket, condensers, points and a carb float just in case. I'm guessing I'll have to clean out the carbon and also maybe clean up the head if it isn't damaged - Is it just a matter of using some light sand paper? thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #20 Posted June 12, 2011 Check the head when you get it off, I had a 14 horse that had burned a hole in the head. Pinging could be caused by a lean mixture. After its all back together and points are set fatten the carb up a little Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigd 0 #21 Posted June 13, 2011 i use an angle grinder with a wire brush to clean heads sand paper will work.check the head and make sure theres no whole cracks or that its not warped bad.keep us posted Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #22 Posted June 13, 2011 Thanks everyone. I ordered all the parts - I tried running the motor with the point cover off and it was arcing like crazy. I also hooked up a timing light and can't even see the S or the T on the fly wheel. I'm guessing that the hole in the head gasket might throw off the timing? Between the arcing and the head gasket gone, I know why they were selling it! Is it possible that a bad condenser would cause a head gasket to go? Thanks! Brad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #23 Posted June 14, 2011 Thanks everyone. I ordered all the parts - I tried running the motor with the point cover off and it was arcing like crazy. I also hooked up a timing light and can't even see the S or the T on the fly wheel. I'm guessing that the hole in the head gasket might throw off the timing? Between the arcing and the head gasket gone, I know why they were selling it! Is it possible that a bad condenser would cause a head gasket to go? Thanks! Brad Low dollar repairs, I would by tractors like that all day long Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigd 0 #24 Posted June 14, 2011 the head gasket wont affect timing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #25 Posted June 16, 2011 the pointsare supposed to arc when they open, thus the name breaker points, this causes the electronic field on the primary side of the coil to collapse and cause the secondary windings to make the high voltage spark that fires the sparkplug. the condenser is in the circuit to stabilize the current flux and minimize pitting of the contact surfaces on the points. DO NOT use a power wire wheel on the aluminum cylinder head, use ezoff oven cleaner or areosol gasket remover and a plastic scraper only, once the head is clean put a fresh sheel of 240 or higher grit sandpaper on a piece of flat glass and lap the head in a figure 8 motion until the surface where the fire ring of the headgasket sits is smooth with no blemishes. it is advisable to use a chemical gasket remover and hand scraper on the head gasket surface of the block as well and only use a powered wire wheel on the valves and very cautiously on the top of the piston. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites