Need a little help, cant get engine to run

[Backroads 0]

Bear with me here!

I have (I'm a newb so this may not be 100% correct) 1961 suburban with an electric start tecumseh H60.

First off, I'm not positive the engine is original but here is my problem. It DID run great....it was just leaking fuel from the main needle at the bottom of the bowl. So I took the carb off, installed new seals and cleaned it up nice.

Put it back together and it fired up and would run good until it got hot, then it would sputter and shut down. Wouldn't restart until it sat and cooled off, then repeat.

So I popped it back off, looked everything over again, rebuilt and re-installed and now it will fire and run under choke for less than a minute before stalling out. Wont run at all without choke.

Just so I get it right, what should my base needle settings be? Anything else I'm doing wrong? Its got good compression and good spark, and like I said it was running great just leaking gas right onto the battery so that obviously was a hazard!

Thanks for any help. Heres some pics of what I got...

engine code

the carb

pretty sure its a Walbro

bad shot of the tractor

[Horse'n Around 22]

Howdy and I would give serious thought to the condenser. Im experienced symptoms like this in the past and it turned out to be a bad condenser, in fact a 653 that I got a few weeks ago had the same problem and a new condenser did the trick.

Just a thought, I hope you get it figured out without losing handfuls of hair .

John

[puddlejumper 67]

Shots in the dark.

Float set to low.

Bad carb to manifold gasket( Drawing air that being need for choke)

Bad throttle shaft where it goes into carb (also drawing air).

And last but not least take no shortcuts cleaning the carb. While its off in your hands soak it blow it out with air and just save yourself the guess work later.

[wallfish 15,972]

Pre sets and adjustment from the manual.

Main 1 1/2

idle 1

Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature (3 - 5 minutes). Set the speed control to the

HIGH or FAST position. From the recommended preset position, turn the main mixture adjustment screw in (clockwise)

slowly until the engine begins to run erratic (lean). Note the position of the screw. Now, turn the screw out (counterclockwise)

until the engine begins to run erratic (rich). Turn the screw in (clockwise) midway between these two positions. This will

be the best setting. (diag. 21, 22 & 23).

Set the speed control to the IDLE or SLOW position. Adjust the idle mixture screw following the same procedure used to

adjust the main mixture adjustment screw.

[c175inMA 8]

:hide:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Positively a 1961 551 Suburban - and positively not the original engine. (I know that because I put it on there )

It really shouldn't be anything major since it was running great before you resealed the carb.

Make sure you check for spark immediately after it dies, and make sure it has full fuel flow from the tank to the carb at all times.

:WRS:

[buckrancher 2,678]

sounds like a bad condenser to me

[Backroads 0]

Thanks a lot for all the support and replies. I didnt change a thing with the float or replace any needles. My main objective was to replace the oring sealing the main jet. I did clean all the parts then blew everything through with air. I had my needles set at 1.5 turns out on the bottom and 3/4 on the side. I will re-adjust to manual specs. I think my problem here might just be carb to engine gasket. Going to try that first then see what goes from there.

Thanks for all the welcomes!

Also with the condenser thoughts, woukd that be something to just go out? I didnt do anything else to it but take the hood and carb off. Touched nothing on the engine itself. I guess it could have just been time, but a little odd timing for it to go out?

[Duff 206]

Positively a 1961 551 Suburban - and positively not the original engine. (I know that because I put it on there )

What are you telling us here, TT?

Duff :WRS:

[Backroads 0]

Positively a 1961 551 Suburban - and positively not the original engine. (I know that because I put it on there )

What are you telling us here, TT?

Duff

^X2!!

Anyways i figured it out. It was dumb as expected

My fuel line wasnt in the ride spot for gravity to take effect. I had the 90' nipple for the fuel line aimed too far down so it was starved for fuel the whole time. Turned it about 30' up towards the hood and it fired right up.

I'd be interested in any history you can share on my old passed around tractor TT

Thanks for all the help fellas.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

All I can tell you is that a really nice fellow from Joisey brought it to me so I could get it running & driving again.

What I can remember doing to it:

I replaced the axle seals & tranz oil, installed the engine & control cables, made a new upper steering shaft, and rewired it.

Proof that it was here:

....and that it ran (and started) great before it left:

The engine was on my 552 when I got it. (incorrect for it too)

[Backroads 0]

I want that tractor!!

But yea thats who i got it from. It runs good now. Guess i can live with it not having the correct engine for now. Is there a way to adapt it to run a mower deck? Ive never seen a deck in front of me to see how it would go together.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

The mower deck fastens to the tractor with two long bolts through the frame.

It shouldn't be too hard to dig one up. (I don't have any though)

[Backroads 0]

Ok so that pulley that is poking out ready to grab my leg is somewhat correct and used to run the deck? Thats what I was unsure about, if that pulley was correct and in the right spot.

Im 'hoping' to get to the big show and find a deck among other things.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Yes - that's the correct "PTO" pulley.

It is used to run the belly mower, snow thrower, front-mounted reel and sickle bar mowers, etc.