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G-PAs Toy

Workhorse 700 ?

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G-PAs Toy

I am looking at putting a Harbor Freight engine in my 60's model Work horse 700. Has anyone else attempted this on this tractor or a similar one. I have read where several of you guys have put these in yout tractors but I don't know enough to tell what models are similar to mine. Any help or advice will be taken. Thanks.

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G-PAs Toy

Nobodys got anything?

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can whlvr

you need to see what shaft size the harbour engine is,then you need to see if they have the same shaft location,so it will mount in the same spot,i put a honda on a 308(i know its not the same as your workhorse,but maybe the theory will be the same)mine bolted right on the engine plate and was exactly where it should be,so i would check the dimensions of the chinese motor,it probally will work with some inginuity,good luck

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416/520

OK,i am in the middle of this project right now. I am putting in a 13 horsepower clone to replace a Power Plus Onan. I will get the Onan back in service at a later date. My tractor is a 520 H with the manual blade engagement common to Wheel Horse.

First,be aware that you can download the operator's manual at Harbor Freight. It will give you the shaft size,height,and base bolt patterns.

The HF engine has 4 issues that must be overcome. First,the shaft height is too low [better than being too high] I simply used 2 pieces of 5/8 plywood to bring it to the height of the old engine. I decided on plywood because my tractor is garage kept and also I wish to repair the Onan when I have time. It does take time to carve out recesses in the bottom of the first piece of plywood to fit over the original motor plate bolts that mount the plate to the rails

The manual clutch engagement cam that bolts to the engine also was too low to fit the pressure bonnet if using the clone mounting holes,and that can be solved with a piece of flat stock bolted to the HF engine and then drill 2 more holes [about an inch higher] for the cam to bolt in.

The Third major issue is that the hood will not quite fit,although it probably would if one cut the under hood braces. The hood mounting tabs could be adapted to move the hood forward a little to allow hood mounting if need be. I am choosing to just leave the hood off the tractor for now.

Finally,the shaft on my P20 is 1-1/8" diameter,and the clone is 1" I simply slotted a 1 x 1-1/8 bushing to go around the key. I also used a Woodruff key that was 1/4" x about 3/8 inch and then ground it down to a finished height of 5/16 to fit the drive pulley perfectly.

Pulling the drive pulley off the original motor is easy enough to do,but one must use a couple of bolts and a small piece of steel plate to make a puller. Also ,it is necessary to heat the pulley to get the set screws loose. The set screws have Locktite on them.

As long as you make sure the clone engine has the drive pulley exactly in the same spot as the original,I do not see why a clone engine should not work. Mine should be done tomorrow.... I hope that 13 HP is enough for a 520 to keep the grass mowed for now...

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can whlvr

cant speak for a 520 but my honda 13 hp will cut long grass all day long and not even hesitate,its pretty strong,hope the harbor engines are as good and you will be happy,thats one thing i liked about the honda,the pto,engine cradle,hood works,all fit with no hassle,but they arnt as inexpensive as the harbor motors,like to see them done

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G-PAs Toy

Are parts available for the old Tecumseh? Sounds likme it may be easier to just rebuild the original engine. Not really sure what is wrong with it. Acts like it is locked up, but still has clean oil in it. Guess I am gonna have to tear into her.

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zach l

just put one in my 700 it was pretty simple fits no problem

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littleredrider

I should be getting my HF 6.5 horse tomorrow for my 67 lawn ranger. Little different tractor but same basic design. It should fit under the hood, will find out when I get it. The crank should be the same size, might be in a different location, so would need a different length belt.

I put a 13 horse clone on my other ranger, after taking the gas tank, muffler, and air filter assembly off, it would fit under the hood. I make a plate that the motor bolted to then bolted to the frame so I wouldn't have to drill any holes in the frame. I'll do the same thing to the other tractor if needed.

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G-PAs Toy

Looks like Harbor greight is not selling those anymore. Looks like they went with a different brand. The connecting rod broke on the old techy. Can't really see any other damage. Should I just replace the rod and put her back together?

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shorts

Bare minimum, I'd run a dingleball hone in the cylinder and put in new rings when replacing the rod. the right thing would be to measure the cylinder for wear and have it bored oversize it if it's out of specs and do a valvejub while its apart.

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G-PAs Toy

Another dumb question. I don't have any of the tools needed to really check the engine out (piston walls, valve job, etc). How much is the going rate for a shop to do something like that?

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can whlvr

that depends totally who you deal with,my shop charged me 80 bucks to bore the cylinder,they measured everything for that money,when i did this other guys here had different prices,some cheaper some more,i dont know what they charge if you only want them to measure

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shorts

If the block and crank are reletavily clean it only takes 5 minuites for a competent technician to mic the bore and crank to see how far out of spec things are worn and what machine operations and parts are required. I usually work on the assumption that if i have the engine apart for piston/crank machining that it needs a valvejob including valveguides and possably valve seats. Do it once, right the first time.

If a machineshop doesn't measure your stuff as part of the estimate process find a different shop. :hide:

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