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m2salmon

1054 Rework

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m2salmon

Gentlemen-

I've been stalking this board for a few months and after starting the reconditioning of a 1964 1054 I have a few questions to post. This is my first tractor of any kind.

Let's get off on the right foot... here's the pictures we all like. This is the tractor as I bought it.

IMG_3938.jpg

My 1054 doesn't have the PTO bell-type cluctch. At one point it ran a snowblower and there is a welded T-shaped rod that was somehow used to engage the power to the blower. My guess is that it was used to actuate a tensioner pulley. Any thoughts? I think every other 1054 picture I've seen has had the clutch set-up. The T-shaped rod was routed through the small bracked which is part of the transmission belt cover. I don't think I've seen this small bracket on other 1054s.

I've been working to get everything into working order. I have been disassembling and cleaning, looking to see what needs repair/replacement along the way. I had to cut out the pivot pin for the hydraulic cylinder, along with the pivot pin through the slot hitch. On the clevis hitch the PO had a custom fabricated towing plate with a pin that pinned the plate through the clevis hitch pivot. I was able to get the slot hitch to rotate with respect to the transmission case, but the ends of the pin weren't moving. I ended up sawzalling it out. I'll need to remove the remnants of the pin from the slot hitch with the press or mill. Here's some pics-

Towing Plate:

WheelHorsePics034.jpg

WheelHorsePics056.jpg

Slot Hitch:

WheelHorsePics060.jpg

Everything is in solid condition, but is dirty and seems to not have been touched in many years. When I took out the hydraulic cylinder and pump, the old fabric lines tore in half and spit what fluid was left in the reserviour onto my floor. I need to replace the seals in my pump and it looks like the needle bearing is missing one of the needles. It feels a little rough when I rotate the input shaft, but not terrible. It seems like there shouldn't be as much gap as there is, but I'd be suprised if this thing has been popped open before to allow a needle to fall out.

Hydraulic Pump Needle Bearing:

WheelHorsePics041.jpg

Hein Warner Pump Disassembled:

WheelHorsePics038.jpg

There is some strange marks on the needles of the bearing and on the mating surfaces on the shaft. Almost like waves. Seems like it would be from wear.

Shaft and Bearing Waves:

WheelHorsePics043.jpg

WheelHorsePics052.jpg

I know a lot of you guys have re-built these pumps. Have you seen anything similar, with the gap in the needle bearing? Is it definitely in need of replacement?

Two more questions questions:

1. Is this shaft on the fuel pump some type of priming lever? I don't see any reference to it in the K241 Kohler manual.

WheelHorsePics014.jpg

2. What is the function of the button on the points cover? It connects to a piece of spring steel on the inside. Again, I didn't see any reference to it in the engine manual.

WheelHorsePics016.jpg

WheelHorsePics017.jpg

One last pic of it being worked on

WheelHorsePics027.jpg

Any feedback you guys had would be appreciated.

Marty

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sgtsampay

Wow. Thats a great tractor you got there. Also, it looks like its in good hands. Unfortanly I don't have an answer to your questions, but I'm sure some of the more senior members will chime in soon. Can;t wait to see more of it.

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WH Raider10

Hi,

That's a really nice tractor! The button on the points cover is to kill the engine. I've only seen them before on the small kohler engines,mostly pull start ones. The coves should be all the same. I've no idea on the fuel pump,somebody will know.

Pieter-Jan :thumbs: :wh:

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Martin

wow. you really have a nice starting point there with your 1054. i have one im working on as well and i think there a really unique tractor. i only have one answer for you and that is in regards to the fuel pump. yes that arm actually works the pump much like the engine does when running. its a real handy thing to have especially when your working on the carb for example and the fuel bowl is dry. working this arm back and forth actuates the pump and gets the gas up into the carb. it also helps if there is already gas in the pump and you are not pumping air..... i have a k181 as well and its not on that pump, just the pump on the k241.

martin.

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m2salmon

Martin,

I picked up my tractor a few weeks before you got yours. I've been following your work on it. The 1054 is unique, I saw this one and it is what got me interested in Wheel Horses. Does yours have the oil bath air cleaner on it, like mine?

Mine is very complete but what is there needs attention. The engine is free but not running, the hydraulic pump needs rebuilt, the hydraulic cylinder I'm not sure if it leaks or not, since the engine hasn't run since I got it, the slot hitch was siezed, both the headlight buckets are there, the lenses are there also, but both are cracked, the tailight is missing...... basically everything is there and repairable, but not ready to go right now. It came with the tire chains, tire chain springs, wheel weights, and a 54" plow. The tires are the original BF Goodrich Silvertown Power Grip Garden Tractor series. Wish I had a fresh set of those babies! These hold air but are cracked bad.

The previous owner said he'd had it for less than a year after he found it sitting behind a Wheel Horse dealership in CT. He heard that it was basically used to clear snow from the dealer's parking lot and tow non-running tractors around. That may explain why the PTO clutch was never added- I think if it were owned by the average Joe it would have had a deck and PTO. Kinda cool to hear the history on it.

When would you not be able to kill the throttle and need to resort to the points cover kill switch?

That makes sense on the lever on the fuel pump. It seemed like it must be some type of manual prime lever.

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