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dmoore

CARB THROTTLE SHAFT

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dmoore

I've noticed the throttle shaft on my Walboro carb has a lot of side to side play..is this normal or is there a bushing kit that can be installed to tighten the clearance up a little? Dave

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mr.pipes

Looked at the pinned link at the top of the engines page. I believe you can order a bushing from Brian Miller.

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WH854

I took one to my local repair shop and got it done for $37.00 and that is cheap now days. That kit is expensive too!! :thumbs:

Chas

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dmoore

Great info! I will order one of those bushings Monday! Thanks! :thumbs:

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rmaynard

You can get a bushing and two screws on eBay for $5.00 plus S&H.

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mr.pipes

I took one to my local repair shop and got it done for $37.00 and that is cheap now days. That kit is expensive too!! :thumbs:

Chas

$37 is a pretty good price for someone else to do it. The bushings are $5 or $6, and screws are $1 for the pair from Brian Miller. Not sure what you were referring to but I don't consider that expensive.

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WH854

From my experiance with replacing the throttle shaft and bushing the shaft is worn to, the screws most of the time are made so they won't come loose,and twist off in the shaft :thumbs: then what do you do.You have to drill them out and retap the screw holes,unless you are good at it,you(I) have to get a new shaft too. That is why I say it is cheap :wh: Also you have to ream out the body for the bushing and that can be tough to. :D

Chas

PS read what Brian Miller says about reparing carburaters :D

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rmaynard

I have done 2 carburetor throttle shaft bushings in the last six months. It is fairly easy if you take your time.

To remove the throttle shaft screws without breaking them, turn them out only 1/8 of a turn, then back in, then turn out 1/4 turn, and back in. You keep doing this until the screw is past the peened area and comes out smoothly. I broke one screw several years ago before I learned that trick, and have not broken one since. If you do break a screw, all that you have to do is drill it out with a bit that is slightly smaller than the screw. Once you are through the brass screw, the remaining threads will fall out. It is not necessary to retap the hole. Run a new screw in to make sure the threads are clear before you reassemble. Put a dot of blue or red thread lock on the exposed threads when you are done with the repair.

As far as the shaft being worn, the bushing is 1/8" thick. If this is the first time that the repair is done, and you don't already have a bushing installed, the shaft will not be worn where it goes through the new bushing, so you will have a good seal. The only time you will have a problem where the services of a "rebuilder" would be necessary, would be if the lower hole is worn (which is not common), and a worn lower hole does not cause the air leakage that the top one does. You would not get a lower hole repair included for the $37.00 cost mentioned.

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sorekiwi

I took one to my local repair shop and got it done for $37.00 and that is cheap now days. That kit is expensive too!! :thumbs:

Chas

$37 is a pretty good price for someone else to do it. The bushings are $5 or $6, and screws are $1 for the pair from Brian Miller. Not sure what you were referring to but I don't consider that expensive.

I'd just like to point out that there are two different types of kit out there to repair the problem.

The little bush that sits on top of the carb is a simple and pretty good crutch that will probably last years.

And then there is the repair kit from Kohler that costs about $50. It includes a new shaft, bushes for both ends of the shaft and requires the carb be reamed out to suit the new (oversized) bushings. This is the kit that is described in the Kohler manual. Here is a link to one of the Kohler kits (I havent checked what motor this kit is for, just searched for the first Kohler kit I found...)

http://cgi.ebay.com/25-757-16-KOHLER-THROT...T-/390027169465

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dmoore

Took the carb off today...I purchased it new in 96,the two small screws came out with no problem(knew the trick mentioned by rmaynard)there was a soft neoprene type bushing installed but there was/is still a lot of side to side play present.....so some one mentioned that area of the carb has to be reamed to accept the new bushing? I am guessing the new bushing is made of metal? Thanks! D

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sorekiwi

Here is the link to Brian Millers page with pictures of what we are talking about:

http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1carb.htm

From Brians page it seems that the later Walboro's are a little different from the early ones and the Carters. I've never seen one, 1996 is about 20 or 30 years too new for me!!

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dmoore

Ordered the bushing & a few gaskets today....they didn't have the bowl for my Walboro #52 so I'm still looking....mine has some rust at the bottom where I guess the zinc coating has failed....D

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